Top 20 Bordeaux reds under £20
Château-bottled, own-label, second wines, brands... it’s great to have the choice, but the options can be confusing when it comes to lower-priced claret. We asked Andy Howard MW to survey the market and select his top 20 reds at this price level for quality and value.
Bordeaux continues to be the most influential wine-producing area in the world. The region remains the driving force behind the world’s fine wine market – its significance shown by the fact that 50% of the Liv-Ex Fine Wine 1,000 come from Bordeaux.
Although famous for its classed growth châteaux, Bordeaux is a great source of classically styled red wines. A strong run of good vintages, increased investment in vineyards plus improved winemaking techniques have resulted in higher quality levels than just a few years ago. With more than 10,000ha under vine and annual production at around 800 million bottles, Bordeaux is a huge business.
The famed classed growths of the Médoc and Sauternes, together with top names in Pessac-Léognan, Graves and on the Right Bank, account for around 10% of total production. But, in previous decades, the quality of wine produced by many estates in the remaining 90% was variable, and sometimes unpalatable.
Encouragingly, things have changed significantly. Although producing cheap Bordeaux is never easy (and made worse by climatic events such as the devastating frosts in 2017), the competition from other regions in France and around the world has propelled quality and investment forward. At the same time, previously less renowned appellations are delivering quality levels approaching much more famous APs, at a fraction of the price.
Today, many Bordeaux wines priced under £20 represent great value for money, while retaining the cool, maritime ripening style for which the region is famous. High-quality wines are now produced across the region from a range of sources, including individual terroir-focused estates, second (and third) wines from top estates, and supermarket blends. In most cases, these wines will also age.
Areas to seek out
The Médoc (the most northerly branch of the Bordeaux region’s appellations) is divided into Médoc (originally known as Bas-Médoc) and Haut-Médoc. The former is a cool area where clay soils (and Merlot) dominate, though gravel outcrops can be found where Cabernet Sauvignon performs better. Proximity to the Gironde estuary is key and some excellent estates are found here – Châteaux Rollan de By and Potensac, for example. Haut-Médoc (which includes the underrated Moulis and Listrac APs) is an extensive area running from north of St-Estèphe to the south of Margaux. Situated inland of the famous APs of Pauillac, St-Julien and Margaux, quality can be very high, although prices for top Haut-Médocs can be steep.
South of Bordeaux city, Graves is an underrated AP better known for white than red wine. Gravel and a higher proportion of limestone promote red wines which are fresher, lighter and less structured than the Médoc, with more mineral and earthy notes.
Recent labelling changes have focused interest on the Côtes de Bordeaux – Blaye, Cadillac, Castillon and Francs, as well as Côtes de Bourg. These up-and-coming areas boast châteaux making wine representative of their terroir, usually at keen prices. The appellations are widely spread, with Blaye (just north of Bourg) on the opposite side of the Gironde from Pauillac; Castillon and Francs sited adjacent and to the east of St-Emilion; and Cadillac lying to their southwest, adjacent to the sweet wine areas around Sauternes. In all of these, expect to see significant differences depending on the dominant soil types and grapes, with Merlot usually dominating.
Across the Right Bank, quality levels are rising rapidly. Today, one can find decent St-Emilion and Pomerol for under £20, but there’s perhaps more interest in the St-Emilion ‘satellite’ appellations – Puisseguin, Lussac and Montagne St-Emilion – while Lalande-de-Pomer ol shows many similarities to Pomerol.
Finally, don’t dismiss Fronsac – one of Bordeaux’s most prestigious regions two centuries ago. This is another area where Merlot and Cabernet Franc dominate, with some long-lasting, great-value wines now being produced.
Top 20 Bordeaux wines under £20
Château Grand Village, Bordeaux Supérieur, Bordeaux, France, 2016
93
The Guinaudeau family is renowned for Château Lafleur in Pomerol, yet the family home is Grand Village, located in Fronsac. On 18ha of prime clay and chalk soil, Baptiste and Julie Guinaudeau craft this excellent-value, high-class Bordeaux blend. Merlot-dominant with leafy Cabernet Franc, fermented in concrete and aged in wood for 15 months, this shows the potential for the limestone soils of Fronsac.
2016
Château Grand VillageBordeaux Supérieur
Château Sénéjac, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France, 2016
93
Sénéjac is a very classy château located in the far south of the Haut-Médoc. Owned by the Cordier family, it is overseen by Alfred Tesseron and the team from Pontet Canet. A refined, biodynamic Bordeaux red, this compares favourably with more highly classified wines. Dark red and blue fruits with leafy notes, fine tannins and subtle oak. Will age extremely well.
2016
Château SénéjacHaut-Médoc
Château Cissac, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France, 2016
Owned by the Vialard family, Cissac has maintained a reputation for classic, high-quality red Bordeaux for many years. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 5%...
2016
Château CissacHaut-Médoc
Château Caronne-Ste-Gemme, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France, 2014
92
There is still lots of life left in this fine Haut-Médoc. Fresh and floral on the nose with extra complexity from some leafy, slightly herbal notes. Soft and easy on the palate, but there is plenty of structure here to age for at least another five years. Nicely integrated oak, with a long, savoury finish. Caronne Ste-Gemme is a highly reliable Left-Bank wine, which certainly won’t break the bank.
2014
Château Caronne-Ste-GemmeHaut-Médoc
Château La Courolle, St-Émilion, Montagne-St-Émilion, Bordeaux, France, 2016
92
Situated on the clay-limestone plateau, La Courolle has been owned by the Guimberteau family for 100 years, with fourth-generation Rodolphe now in charge. Merlot dominates with a small proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The palate is full, ripe and soft with leafy black fruit, subtle oak (33% new), fine tannins and a long finish.
2016
Château La CourolleSt-Émilion
Château Pontet Plaisance, St-Émilion, Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France, 2015
92
From a small 3ha estate in the heart of St-Emilion comes this stony, characterful and balanced grand cru. Jean-Claude and Anicette Arnaud are the fourth generation here and have produced a linear, concentrated and subtle wine in 2015. Merlot-dominated (70%) with equal percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this is refreshing and displays leafy, red-berry fruit notes, with a lovely, cool finish.
2015
Château Pontet PlaisanceSt-Émilion
Château Teyssier, St-Émilion, Montagne-St-Émilion, Bordeaux, France, 2014
92
From the less-hyped 2014 vintage, there is no shortage of depth here. Deep colour, lifted on the nose with floral notes combining with cassis and spice. Merlot-dominated, smooth, rounded and plush on the palate with lovely acidity, refined tannins and very well-integrated oak. Ready now, but this has the concentration to last at least 3-5 years.
2014
Château TeyssierSt-Émilion
Château Tour du Moulin, Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2015
92
A great example of why appellations such as Fronsac need to be considered in great years. This has weight, plushness and ripeness but all kept in check by a cool Bordeaux-style edge. Seamlessly integrated oak and ripe tannins make this a classy Fronsac from the Dupuch family, vignerons in Saillans.
2015
Château Tour du MoulinFronsac
L’Hêtre, La Raison d’Hêtre, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux, France, 2016
92
The second wine of L’Hêtre, a new wine in the distinctly up-and-coming AP of Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. Owned by the Thienpont family, organically farmed and situated high on the limestone plateau to the east of St-Emilion, this is great value considering its pedigree. 95% Merlot with a dash of Cabernet Franc, there is dark blackcurrant fruit and a whiff of smoke, allied to ripe tannins and potential to age.
2016
L’HêtreCastillon Côtes de Bordeaux
Château Argadens, Bordeaux Supérieur, Bordeaux, France, 2015
91
A fine Bordeaux Supérieur which is very much on the up. Argadens was purchased by the Sichel family (owners of Château Angludet) in 2002, and renamed after the noble family who founded the estate back in the 13th century. Situated 60km south of Bordeaux, a major programme of investment is transforming this property. Rich, ripe, dark blackberry fruits and 12 months in oak show the potential here.
2015
Château ArgadensBordeaux Supérieur
Château Breillan, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France, 2016
91
Another wine from the Sichel family portfolio, Breillan is situated in Blanquefort on the outskirts of Bordeaux. Despite its Haut-Médoc appellation, Breillan comprises an atypical blend of 90% Merlot with 10% Cabernet Franc – in other words, a Right-Bank mix on the Left Bank! It’s a highly successful blend with a dark red/purple hue in the glass, plump fruit and firm tannins, which will benefit from a year or two more in bottle.
2016
Château BreillanHaut-Médoc
Château Saint-Martin, Listrac, Bordeaux, France, 2012
91
Listrac-Medoc is often overlooked. From vines grown on gravel and clay-limestone soils, this is a fine, mature example with a Merlot-dominated (70%) blend. Cabernet Sauvignon makes up the rest, imparting extra density and fine tannins to the fleshy, ripe Merlot fruit. Aged for 12 months in oak, this is bottled unfined. Subtle oak rounds off a very attractive Médoc wine.
2012
Château Saint-MartinListrac
Domaine de Chevalier, La Petite Lune, Bordeaux, Bordeaux, France, 2016
91
Produced by the Bernard family of Domaine de Chevalier fame, this is a great-value Bordeaux blend forged out of an alliance between Olivier Bernard and Stéphane Derenoncourt. With the luxurious texture of the 2016 vintage behind it, this has plenty of dark red and black currant notes, a touch of herbs and lead pencil to finish, all carried on a wave of silky tannins. Some good ageing potential as well.
2016
Domaine de ChevalierBordeaux
Château Beaumont, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France, 2016
91
A classy cru bourgeois from Cussac, just south of St-Julien. With virtually equal shares of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, spiced up with 3% Petit Verdot, this is a suave Haut-Médoc with bramble fruit and classic, cool Bordeaux tannins, while retaining the generosity and balance of the 2016 vintage.
2016
Château BeaumontHaut-Médoc
Yvon Mau, Médoc, Bordeaux, France, 2018
91
Major producer Yvon Mau is the force behind this Médoc wine, which lives up to its Tesco Finest name. The 2016 vintage offered a great combination of quality and value – and the 2018 is at least as good. A plush texture and ripe dark fruits on the palate are complemented by typical Bordeaux tannins and leafy grip. Not for long keeping, as the fruit is beautifully supple now. Great value for money.
2018
Yvon MauMédoc
Château Greysac, Médoc, Bordeaux, France, 2015
Greysac, a cru bourgeois in the very north of the Médoc, was purchased in 2012 by Jean Guyon, owner of neighbouring Château Rollan de By....
2015
Château GreysacMédoc
Château Montaiguillon, St-Émilion, Montagne-St-Émilion, Bordeaux, France, 2016
90
Very deep purple in colour, with enveloping aromas of damson, plums and blackberry, with a touch of clove. Spicy, dark fruits on the palate with lively acidity and slightly firm tannins. This is a fresh, lively, bright, juicy example of why St-Emilion satellites merit consideration. Relatively early-drinking.
2016
Château MontaiguillonSt-Émilion
Château Clinet, Ronan by Clinet Pur’Cab, Bordeaux, Bordeaux, France, 2016
90
Ronan by Clinet was introduced in 2009, establishing itself as a great-value 100% Merlot produced by the eminent Château Client team. This limited release is a very different blend, being an equal mix of Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc. Deep in colour, with savoury notes plus leafy blackcurrant, plum and some sweetness of oak, this is a classy, easy-drinking wine in this great vintage. 12,000 bottles were produced.
2016
Château ClinetBordeaux
Château de Cérons, Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2017
Run by Xavier and Caroline Perromat. Caroline worked with Véronique Sanders at Château Haut-Bailly for 15 years before moving to Xavier’s family estate. Shows the...
2017
Château de CéronsGraves
Château Gillet, Bordeaux, Bordeaux, France, 2019
89
Château Gillet, owned by the Nadau family, has been a stalwart of the M&S range for many years. Always reliable and great value, this youthful wine is a fine advert for the 2019 vintage, with plenty of spice and leafy raspberry notes on the nose, and dusky, briary, red berry and currant fruits on the palate. Unoaked, this lets the bright, Merlot-dominated fruit shine through. Ready to drink, enjoy over the next two years.
2019
Château GilletBordeaux
