For most of the world’s wine regions, the majority of their exported bottles sell for less than £50 ($64/€58) in the retail market.
Not so California, where for many of its wines, even a producer’s most affordable, you’ll get little change from that outlay.
Such is the region’s reputation for big wines – in style and price – that the trade body which represents California in the UK felt the need to host an event, Essential California, where only wines costing £50 or under were on show.
This was a canny move as there’s plenty on offer in the £20-£50 bracket and the tasting of more than 500 wines was a great way to shine a light on the value that this great state can deliver.
Cabernet Sauvignon remains king in California, and while plenty of Cabs and Bordeaux blends can be found in the below £50 / $50 range, many of the most interesting wines in this price bracket come from Rhône Valley varieties.
‘Rhône Rangers’ is the tag given to Californian reds based around the classic varieties of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, and it’s this trio of grapes – alongside the peppery Counoise – which produced some of the most exciting wines of the tasting.
Expressive, bright, often floral and rarely overblown, these approachable reds share the same characteristic ripeness of fruit, lingering spice and inherent savouriness as their French counterparts.
There’s a burgeoning white Rhône scene in California too, where Viognier, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc lead the charge and are capable of producing racy, supple wines.
Decanter Premium – Californian Rhône-style reds
California Rhône wines to try under £50 / $50
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Tablas Creek, Esprit de Tablas Blanc, Paso Robles, California, USA, 2014
93
A blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Picpoul Blanc propagated from cuttings taken from the Château de Beaucastel estate in the Rhône. This is waxy and pithy with guava and tinned pineapple aromas which lead on to the palate where lemon acidity adds focus. There’s an unexpected but welcome flirtation with hazelnut on the finish that adds complexity and savouriness.
2014
Tablas CreekPaso Robles
Sean Thackrey, Pleiades White, California, USA, 2018
92
This Marsanne- and Viognier-led blend also sees Verdelho and Sauvignon Blanc getting in on the act to create a unique ensemble. It’s waxy and tropical (pineapple, mango), reminiscent of chewy fruit sweets, but deftly balanced thanks to a fresh acidity and slight oxidative note.
2018
Sean Thackrey
Kinero Cellars, Alice G2 Vineyard Grenache Blanc, Paso Robles, California, USA, 2018
91
35-year-old own-rooted Grenache Blanc is planted on a steep south-west facing slope. The Pacific Ocean influence brings freshness to this bright, focused wine; lychee and grapefruit characters are joined by shale and a hint of peppery spice. A wine that rolls effortlessly around the mouth.
2018
Kinero CellarsPaso Robles
The Ojai Vineyard, Roll Ranch Viognier, Santa Barbara County, California, USA, 2017
91
The fruit comes from own-rooted vines planted in 1993 in southern California’s Upper Ojai Valley. It’s picked early which results in a mineral-driven wine with brisk acidity that’s not overblown or too tropical. Nectarine, and white peach dominates and there’s a slightly medicinal, lanolin note that adds interest and bite.
2017
The Ojai VineyardSanta Barbara County
Calera, Viognier, San Benito County, Mount Harlan, California, USA, 2017
90
This cool-climate Viognier comes from the limestone soils of Mt Harlan from plots planted in 1983 and 1989. There’s a metallic steel-wool aroma that combines with passionfruit and apple blossom to create a heady, intriguing mix that is in no way blousy or overly plush. Zippy grapefruit acidity and tropical notes continue to the finish.
2017
CaleraSan Benito County
Orin Swift, Abstract, California, USA, 2018
94
Orin Swift’s Dave Phinney must be like a kid in a sweet shop when given the keys to E&J Gallo’s vast roster of vineyards and told to take whatever fruit he wants. Here he has plundered Grenache, Syrah and Petite Syrah for the flagship Abstract blend. It’s a bold and assertive but brilliantly on-song – note-perfect in fact, with blackberry, red liquorice and earth combining to create a soulful, ethereal wine.
2018
Orin Swift
Donkey & Goat, The Bear, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado County, California, USA, 2017
93
This six-grape Rhône blend sees Counoise leading the charge making up 53% of the mix, followed by Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Roussanne. It’s fresh and mineral with pomegranate acidity, raspberry fruit and a savoury, bloody backbone. Delicious.
2017
Donkey & GoatSierra Foothills
Skinner, Smithereens, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado County, California, USA, 2016
A Grenache and Mourvèdre heavy blend from El Dorado in the Sierra Foothills AVA this classically constructed wine has a nose of pencil shavings and...
2016
SkinnerSierra Foothills
Benevolent Neglect, Counoise, North Coast, California, USA, 2018
91
Two blocks of Counoise – one planted in the 1920s, the other in the 1970s – are fermented and matured separately (10 months in old oak) before blending one month ahead of bottling. This is a heady, fruit-forward wine with a steely backbone and redcurrant jelly tang. Clove and pepper spice offer a kick on the finish.
2018
Benevolent NeglectNorth Coast
Le P’tit Paysan, Le P’tit Pape, Central Coast, California, USA, 2016
91
This five-grape blend is comprised of 53% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 8% Mourvèdre, 3% Counoise and 2% Cinsault and it’s aged almost exclusively in old oak (97%) to let the fruit do the talking. And it does just that: plum, wild strawberry, cranberry and tomato leaf dance around this solid, easy-drinking wine. A sprinkling of Christmas spice and red cherry acidity laces the long finish.
2016
Le P’tit PaysanCentral Coast
Paul Lato, Matinee Syrah, Santa Barbara County, California, USA, 2015
91
This is the second wine to Paul Lato’s Il Padrino Syrah from the famed Bien Nacido vineyard. It’s a crunchy, perfumed joy which belies its hefty alcohol to deliver a decadent, smooth and light-footed palate. Shot through with plum and mulberry there are roasted coffee and dark chocolate notes too, a splash of vanilla coming from 18 months of new oak.
2015
Paul LatoSanta Barbara County
Bonterra, Young Red, Mendocino County, California, USA, 2018
90
Is this a rosé? Not really, but in the right light you’d be forgiven for thinking it was. It is, in fact, the hard-press from Bonterra’s rosé crush with a splash of Malbec added back in. It has a ruby hue and a nose of candy floss and raspberry jam. There’s lovely weight in the mouth where the summer fruit continues, joined by a lean, pink lemonade acidity. Serve chilled.
2018
BonterraMendocino County
Cline Family Cellars, Ancient Vines Mourvèdre, San Francisco Bay, Contra Costa County, California, USA, 2017
90
Fruit from bush vines up to 120 years old go into this butch, earthy Mourvèdre. Dark red fruits and dark chocolate are the key notes on the nose and palate, with a minty flourish on the finish.
2017
Cline Family CellarsSan Francisco Bay
Peter Franus, Red Hills Lake County Mourvèdre, Lake County, California, USA, 2014
89
A rich and approachable Mourvèdre from Red Hills Lake County that’s bursting with dark cherry fruit and a cherry cola sweetness. Soft tannins and delicate ginger and allspice make for a rounded, easy-drinking wine.
2014
Peter FranusLake County