Decanter's Dream Destination: Villa d'Este, Cernobbio, Italy

Villa d'Este: From boat rides to rare wines

You can’t help but feel glamorous slicing through the water on Lake Como in a gleaming Riva speedboat with a glass of Ca’ Del Bosco Franciacorta fizz in hand.

‘That’s George Clooney’s house,’ the skipper says, whizzing by a large 18^th century cream-painted mansion set in manicured grounds on the edge of the lake.

With the foothills of the Alps looming beyond, and picturesque villages scattered along its shores, it’s no wonder the area has attracted poets, artists and musicians for centuries.

The boat ride is one of the most popular activities offered by what is one of Italy’s grandest hotels, Villa d’Este, with a roll call of guests that would make any jaw drop, among them Clark Gable and Bette Davis, José Carerras and Madonna - Alfred Hitchcock even made his first film here, The Pleasure Garden.

Italy’s largest private wine collection

For wine lovers, Villa d’Este has become a particular draw of late. It now boasts the largest private wine collection in Italy, with over 12,000 labels and 160,000 bottles, with rarities such as 1893 Château d’Yquem and 1935 Romanée-Conti, plus a line-up of starry

Super-Tuscans, Piedmont heavyweights, and lesser-known gems from around Italy and beyond.

How it all began

Commissioned in 1586 by the Cardinal of Como, the palatial building and its surrounding 25 acres of lush, sculpture-filled gardens (a National Monument since 2013) has been owned since by bankers and barons, counts and marquises – even a future Queen of England, Caroline of Brunswick.

Transformed into a hotel in 1873, it now belongs to a family of Italian entrepreneurs, who also own other luxury hotels, including Villa La Massa in Florence, and the legendary Harry’s Bar in Cernobbio (no relation to the Venice institution), the well-heeled village in which Villa d’Este is located.

Checking in: Rooms at Villa d'Este

Ornate crested cast iron gates swing open as a liveried doorman waves guests through onto a regal tree-lined driveway.

With the lake glittering to one side, all enter through the grand foyer, with its imposing columns and seductive signature scent.

There are 151 rooms in all, divided between The Cardinal’s Building and the Queen’s Pavilion, decorated with period furniture and paintings, with large marble bathrooms de rigueur – even the pillowcases have personalised monograms.

Plus, there are four private villas for those who want their privacy, a beauty centre and sizeable spa, with a golf course nearby.

Best are the rooms overlooking the lake, where the sound of church bells carries across the water as small passenger ferries chug rhythmically to and fro.

Dining at Villa d'Este

There are several dining options offered at Villa d’Este throughout the year (the hotel is the only luxury hotel on the lake to open during the winter – with Christmas a highlight), with the fine dining Veranda its flagship.

Here, long-serving executive chef Michele Zambanini expertly works his refined take on classic Italian cooking, where a team of six sommeliers will pair wines to match led by group wine director Alex Bartoli, the brains behind the newly transformed list.

A treasure-filled wine cellar

Bartoli joined the team in 2022, fresh from winning awards at three-Michelin starred Milan restaurant Cracco.

‘I’ve been on a bit of a spending spree,’ he first confesses before explaining how he built up the list from just 300 labels.

With large format bottles his passion (‘I love the way the wine evolves,’ he says), Bartoli shows off his cavernous, treasure-filled cellar to any guest who is interested, plus offers private tasting experiences which both inform and delight, sprinkled throughout with winemaker anecdotes.

While his winemaker dinners, held between October and December, have become a big draw for both guests and locals.

One last ride

On Bartoli’s recommendation, we jump on the ferry for the 10-minute ride to Como, weaving through the atmospheric old town to arrive at swanky wine shop-cum-wine bar Vineria Vitani, where we savour rich, spicy 2007 Gravner Rosso Breg, before taking one last ride across the breathtaking lake.

Related articles