Beaujolais: revival of the fittest
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From St-Amour in the north to Brouilly in the south, the 10 crus of Beaujolais suffered in the past from a lack of investment and poor winemaking, not to mention the glut of Nouveau. But things have changed, says James Lawther MW
Lawther’s top 2013 cru Beaujolais reds
Blog: Who is drinking Beaujolais Nouveau?
Château Thivin, La Chapelle, Côte de Brouilly
17.5pts/20 (91/100pts)
Dense and racy with an affirmed structure. Spice and red fruit notes. Fine texture. Loads of freshness and length.
Price: £18-£20.50 (2011) Domaine Direct, Theatre of Wine
Drink 2016-2022
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Alc 13%
Domaine Daniel Bouland, Vieilles Vignes, Morgon
17.5pts/20 (91/100pts)
Concentrated and intense. Complex dark fruit, pepper and liquorice notes. Firm but refined texture. Structured. Long, saline finish.
Price: £19.26 Seckford, Vine Trail
Drink 2015-2022
Alc 13%
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Vieilles Vignes, Moulin-à-Vent
17.5pts/20 (91/100pts)
Tight, dense and structured. Intense nose with morello cherry notes. Mineral palate and long, firm finish.
Price: £13.33 (ib) Flint Wines
Drink 2017-2024
Alc 13%
Domaine Chignard, Les Moriers, Fleurie
17pts/20 (90/100pts)
Elegant red fruit and lifted floral nose. Silky texture. Poised and complete. Delicious.
Price: £12.50-£16.50 AG Wines, Berry Bros & Rudd, The Wine Society
Drink 2015-2018
Alc 12.5%
Domaine Louis-Claude Desvignes, La Voûte St-Vincent, Morgon
17pts/20 (90/100pts)
Floral-violet nose. Very much on the fruit but good intensity. Finely woven tannins. Pure and almost feminine for a Morgon. Good value.
Price: £13.95 Berry Bros & Rudd
Drink 2015-2017
Alc 13%
Jean-Marc Burgaud, Côte du Py, Morgon
17pts/20 (90/100pts)
Dark cherry notes with a hint of black pepper. Tight, firm and structured. Length and grip on the finish. Great value from the most famous slope in Morgon.
Price: £13.50-£16.50 Berry Bros & Rudd, The Wine Society
Drink 2015-2020
Alc 13%
Domaine Laurent Martray, Vieilles Vignes, Brouilly
16.5pts/20 (88/100pts)
Lovely depth of fruit. Eminently drinkable but should hold up for a few more years.
Price: £14.95 Lea & Sandeman
Drink 2015-2018
Alc 12.5%
Domaine Paul Janin et Fils, Les Vignes du Tremblay, Moulin-à-Vent
16.5pts/20 (88/100pts)
Subtle red fruit expression with a mineral character. Firm and structured in style. Well defined.
Price: £14.30 Christopher Piper, Domaine Direct
Drink 2015-2020
Alc 13%
Dominique Piron, Domaine de la Chanaise, Morgon
16.5pts/20 (88/100pts)
Red fruit and lifted floral aroma and flavour. Round and supple on attack then firm and structured on the finish.
Price: £13.99 Averys, Domaine Direct, Telegraph Wines
Drink 2015-2017
Alc 12.5%
Lucien Lardy, Les Roches, Fleurie
16.5pts/20 (88/100pts)
Firmer and more masculine in style than many Fleuries. Juicy red fruit with a strong tannic frame. Fresh finish.
Price: £10.95 The Imperial Wine Co
Drink 2015-2020
Alc 12.5%
James Lawther MW is a contributing editor to Decanter as well as an independent wine writer, lecturer and tour guide based in Bordeaux. He retailed wine at Steven Spurrier's Les Caves de la Madeleine in Paris in the 1980s, and his early career also involved stints as a cellar hand in Bordeaux, Burgundy, Roussillon and Western Australia. In 1993, Lawther became a Master of Wine. He is author of The Heart of Bordeaux and The Finest Wines of Bordeaux, and has contributed to books including Dorling Kindersley’s Wines of the World, Oz Clarke’s Bordeaux and Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book.