Beaujolais: revival of the fittest

From St-Amour in the north to Brouilly in the south, the 10 crus of Beaujolais suffered in the past from a lack of investment and poor winemaking, not to mention the glut of Nouveau. But things have changed, says James Lawther MW

Lawther’s top 2013 cru Beaujolais reds

Blog: Who is drinking Beaujolais Nouveau?

Château Thivin, La Chapelle, Côte de Brouilly
17.5pts/20 (91/100pts)
Dense and racy with an affirmed structure. Spice and red fruit notes. Fine texture. Loads of freshness and length.
Price: £18-£20.50 (2011) Domaine Direct, Theatre of Wine
Drink 2016-2022
Alc 13%

Domaine Daniel Bouland, Vieilles Vignes, Morgon
17.5pts/20 (91/100pts)
Concentrated and intense. Complex dark fruit, pepper and liquorice notes. Firm but refined texture. Structured. Long, saline finish.
Price: £19.26 Seckford, Vine Trail
Drink 2015-2022
Alc 13%

Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Vieilles Vignes, Moulin-à-Vent
17.5pts/20 (91/100pts)
Tight, dense and structured. Intense nose with morello cherry notes. Mineral palate and long, firm finish.
Price: £13.33 (ib) Flint Wines
Drink 2017-2024
Alc 13%

Domaine Chignard, Les Moriers, Fleurie
17pts/20 (90/100pts)
Elegant red fruit and lifted floral nose. Silky texture. Poised and complete. Delicious.
Price: £12.50-£16.50 AG Wines, Berry Bros & Rudd, The Wine Society
Drink 2015-2018
Alc 12.5%

Domaine Louis-Claude Desvignes, La Voûte St-Vincent, Morgon
17pts/20 (90/100pts)
Floral-violet nose. Very much on the fruit but good intensity. Finely woven tannins. Pure and almost feminine for a Morgon. Good value.
Price: £13.95 Berry Bros & Rudd
Drink 2015-2017
Alc 13%

Jean-Marc Burgaud, Côte du Py, Morgon
17pts/20 (90/100pts)
Dark cherry notes with a hint of black pepper. Tight, firm and structured. Length and grip on the finish. Great value from the most famous slope in Morgon.
Price: £13.50-£16.50 Berry Bros & Rudd, The Wine Society
Drink 2015-2020
Alc 13%

Domaine Laurent Martray, Vieilles Vignes, Brouilly

16.5pts/20 (88/100pts)
Lovely depth of fruit. Eminently drinkable but should hold up for a few more years.
Price: £14.95 Lea & Sandeman
Drink 2015-2018
Alc 12.5%

Domaine Paul Janin et Fils, Les Vignes du Tremblay, Moulin-à-Vent
16.5pts/20 (88/100pts)
Subtle red fruit expression with a mineral character. Firm and structured in style. Well defined.
Price: £14.30 Christopher Piper, Domaine Direct
Drink 2015-2020
Alc 13%

Dominique Piron, Domaine de la Chanaise, Morgon
16.5pts/20 (88/100pts)
Red fruit and lifted floral aroma and flavour. Round and supple on attack then firm and structured on the finish.
Price: £13.99 Averys, Domaine Direct, Telegraph Wines
Drink 2015-2017
Alc 12.5%

Lucien Lardy, Les Roches, Fleurie
16.5pts/20 (88/100pts)
Firmer and more masculine in style than many Fleuries. Juicy red fruit with a strong tannic frame. Fresh finish.
Price: £10.95 The Imperial Wine Co
Drink 2015-2020
Alc 12.5%

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