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The workhorse reputation of the Montepulciano grape and the confusion of Trebbiano d'Abruzzo with its boring Tuscan cousin have done this region no favours, says Stephen Brook. But seek out the best producers of these and other indigenous varieties and you’ll be pleasantly surprised...

Brook’s top Abruzzo wines

18.5/20pts (95/100pts)

Muted oaky nose, black cherries and chocolate. Very concentrated with spicy cherry fruit, good acidity, and balsamic and chocolatey nuances. Powerful balanced and very long.

Price: £49.99 AG Wines

Drink 2014–2022

Alc 14.5%

Torre dei Beati, Mazzamurello, Montepulciano 2007

18.5/20pts (95/100pts)

Slightly gamey black fruit nose. Compact, spicy and very concentrated, with black cherry, suave texture and good length.

Price: £28.95 Handford

Drink 2014–2020

Alc 14%

Villa Medoro, Rosso del Duca, Montepulciano 2010

18.5/20pts (95/100pts)

Very ripe plum and menthol nose. Rich fruit but cut by fine acidity that gives tension and finesse. Well-integrated oak and a long, invigorating finish.

Price: £14 Genesis

Drink 2014–2020

Alc 14%

Illuminati, Zanna, Montepulciano Colline Teramane Riserva 2008

18/20pts (93/100pts)

Rich sour cherry and damson nose. Creamy, full bodied, with depth of flavour and lots of spice. Slightly dry finish but not too tannic.

Price: £15.79 (2007) London Wine Deliveries

Drink 2014–2022

Alc 14.5%

Agriverde, Solàrea, Montepulciano 2009

17.5/20pts (91/100pts)

Rich, plummy nose. Dense and quite tannic on the palate, but this wine has lovely, lively acidity and is still taut and youthful. Peppery and long.

Price: £18.50 Vinissimo

Drink 2014–2020

Alc 14%

Cataldi Madonna, Malandrino, Montepulciano 2010

17.5/20pts (91/100pts)

Ripe cherry and menthol nose. Quite full bodied yet no heavyweight, this is fresh, intense and stylish, with good acidity and length.

Price: £19.99 AG Wines

Drink 2014–2018

Alc 13%

Nicodemi, Notari, Montepulciano 2010

17.5/20pts (91/100pts)

Ripe but elegant plummy nose, with a touch of vanilla. Concentrated and full-bodied, with a svelte texture and moderate tannins. Long, with fine acidity on the finish.

Price: £14.99 (2008) Cadman

Drink 2014–2018

Alc 14%

Tiberio, Fonte Canale, Trebbiano 2012

17.5/20pts (91/100pts)

Ripe apricot nose. Rich, textured and concentrated but has fresh acidity, and a bitter lemon twist on the long, citric finish.

Price: N/A UK tiberiowine.com

Drink 2014–2018

Alc 12.5%

Valentini, Trebbiano 2004

17.5/20pts (91/100pts)

Spicy, leesy, apricot nose. Full bodied and weightier than the nose suggests, with good extract and moderate acidity. Quite long.

Price: £67.20 Fine & Rare

Drink 2014–2016

Alc 12%

Cantina Tollo, Terre di Chieti, Pecorino 2012

16.5/20pts (88/100pts)

Vintners apricot and melon nose. Fine attack, fresh, citrus and passion fruit flavours; long, with a tangy finish.

Price: £20 Yorkshire Vintners

Drink 2014–2015

Alc 13%

Talamonti, Tre Saggi, Montepulciano 2010

16.5/20pts (88/100pts)

Spicy cherry and blueberry nose. Suave and fleshy, but an easygoing style with light tannins and fresh acidity. Modern style, balanced and long.

Price: £12.70–£12.99 Penistone, Wined Up Here

Drink 2014–2018

Alc 13.5%

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Stephen Brook

Stephen Brook has been a contributing editor to Decanter since 1996 and has won a clutch of awards for his writing on wine. The author of more than 30 books, his works include Complete Bordeaux, now the definitive study of the region and in its third edition, and The Wines of California, which won three awards. His most recently published book is The Wines of Austria. Brook also fully revised the last two editions of Hugh Johnson’s Wine Companion, and he writes for magazines in many countries.