The discovery of Douro terroir
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The Douro’s soils were long seen as one and the same when it came to growing Port grapes, of whatever variety. But thanks to new approaches from the major shippers, the regional subtleties of terroir are now being appreciated. Margaret Rand reports
Rand’s 10 terroir-driven Douros
Niepoort, Redoma Branco 2011
18/20pts (93/100pts)
From old mixed vineyards at Quinta da Nápoles and others at 400m-700m. Smoke and minerality, honeysuckle and white fruit; very complex.
Price: £18-£19 Cambridge Wine, Drinkmonger, Theatre of Wine, Uncorked, Vinoteca
Drink 2015-2018
Alc 13%
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Quinta do Crasto 2012
17.5/20pts (91/100pts)
Nutty, buttery characters on a complex, balanced, mineral palate. Grown on the north bank of the Douro.
Price: £9.15-£11.50 widely available via UK agent Great Western Wine
Drink 2015-2017
Alc 12%
Prats & Symington, Chryseia 2011
19/20pts (96/100pts)
Comes almost entirely from Quinta do Roriz. Wonderfully spicy, elegant, defined black fruits and very mineral.
Price: £45-£81 Berry Bros & Rudd, Farr, Hedonism, Planet of the Grapes, The Wine Society
Drink 2015-2020
Alc 14%
Quinta do Vallado, Adelaide 2012
18.5/20pts (95/100pts)
From 80-year-old vines on this estate in the Corgo valley. Complex, tight, integrated, elegant and fine. A dense core of black fruit, but not fruit-driven.
Price: N/A UK quintadovallado.com
Drink 2016-2024
Alc 14.5%
Altano, Quinta do Ataide Organic 2011
18/20pts (93/100pts)
From the hot, dry Vilariça Valley, where granite hills surround flat vineyards. Concentrated aromatic fruit, beautifully defined, with a detailed texture.
Price: £9.99 Cambridge Wine Merchants, Davy, Partridges, TJ Wines, Waitrose
Drink 2015-2018
Alc 13.9%
Quinta do Vale Meão, Meandro 2011
18/20pts (93/100pts)
From the Douro Superior. Aromatic with garrigue herbs, juniper and lovely black fruits; structured and supple.
Price: £19-£21.50 Bottle Apostle, Handford Wines, Harvey Nicols, Selfridges, Theatre of Wine
Drink 2015-2018
Alc 14%
F Olazabal e Filhos, Monte Meão 2011
17.5/20pts (91/100pts)
Touriga Nacional from granite soils in the Douro Superior. Very distinct, bright red cherry character – spicy, peppery and fresh.
Price: N/A UK quintadovalemeao.pt
Drink 2015-2020
Alc 14%
Quinta do Vallado, Touriga Nacional 2011
17.5/20pts (91/100pts)
Partly from Vallado itself (fresh, concentrated), partly from the Douro Superior (flowery notes). Powerful, dense and fresh, with notes of violet and balsamic. Very fine.
Price: £22-£25 Direct Wine Imports, Exel, Nicolas, Quaff, Wimbledon Wine Cellar, Winedirect
Drink 2015-2018
Alc 14%
Quinta Vale D Maria, CV 2011
17.5/20pts (91/100pts)
A north-facing vineyard in a closed valley; hot, but not direct sun all day. Big and powerful, but still fresh and balanced sleek black fruits.
Price: £52 (2009) Corney & Barrow
Drink 2015-2020
Alc 15.5%
Quinta Vale D Maria 2011
17/20pts (90/100pts)
41 varieties make for a complex, dense, muscular wine – very harmonious too. This one’s about power, not the fruit.
Price: £30 (2010) Corney & Barrow, Tanners
Drink 2015-2020
Alc 15%
Margaret Rand is a past editor of Wine Magazine, Wine & Spirit International and Whisky Magazine. She now writes for World of Fine Wine, Drinks Business, Decanter and Imbibe among others, and is general editor of Hugh Johnson's Pocket Wine Book. She has won several Roederer and Lanson awards, and a new edition of Grapes and Wines is due out any minute.