Decanter’s Dream Destination: Ästad Vingård, Halland, Sweden
There are few vineyards that feel otherworldly but the small, organic Ästad Vingård, in Halland, south-west Sweden really gives the impression you have wandered through a wardrobe into Narnia.
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The stylish Scandi retreat nestled in the Åkulla Beech Forest nature reserve (1.5 hours from Gothenburg Airport and around 2.5 hours from Copenhagen Airport) is a luxury spa resort and sparkling wine estate.
The estate has 54 rooms spanning several categories. From a choice of simple cabin rooms to suites complete with enormous stone-carved baths, all accommodation options are Scandi chic. A collection of Sjöparken rooms has been added recently, each with its own sauna and private bathing jetty: perfect for a dip in the natural pool just outside.
One of Sweden’s largest vineyards
The property is owned by the Carlsson family and now run by third-generation family members. Rooted originally in organic farming, they turned their attention to hospitality and viticulture, planting Solaris vines in 2011, and growing to become one of Sweden’s largest vineyards.
Solaris, a white grape that thrives in a Nordic climate, provides the high acidity needed for sparkling wine and is famed for its aromatic citrus notes. Today the property has around 30,000 Solaris vines situated on both inland and coastal sites, as well as more recent experimental plantings of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Winemaker Claes Bartoldsson heads up the vineyard work and has been a part of the venture since day one, mentored by Swedish expert Lars Torstensson. Along with Claes the team uses the traditional Champagne method and chooses between a first fermentation in steel tanks, French oak barrels, or concrete eggs depending on the harvest, before the second fermentation in bottle for a minimum of 18 months.
Relaxing in the snow
The Sinnenas spa evokes fairy folklore with a combination of historic wooden huts topped with wild flower roofs alongside state-of-the art saunas with mid-century style curved wood.
Move between indoor and outdoor bathing and sauna areas which are simply magical amid the quiet peacefulness of the snow. Take an invigorating dip in the spring-water pond on a winter’s day or relax in the 39°C heated pool, as the snowflakes fall around you.
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Particular highlights are the forest bathing room where you can relax in hanging chairs to the sound of bird song, and the underwater sauna where you can watch fish swim by as you unwind.
Entirely new spa and relaxation areas have opened recently, connected to the estate’s new wine bar. In addition to sparkling organic wine from Halland, the bar also offers an excellent selection of carefully chosen European wines. A light lunch is also available at the spa’s Smakbaren (tasting bar).
From rustic bites to Michelin cuisine
As evening falls, dinner is served at one of the estate’s restaurants. For something on the rustic side, try Logen, offering a four-course dinner based on local, seasonal ingredients with dishes such as buttered onion broth with glass-baked cod or roasted venison with cognac gravy.
If you prefer fine dining, a true highlight of the estate is the Michelin one-starred (and one green star for its meticulous work on sustainability) Restaurant ÄNG. At first glance the restaurant appears as a simple glasshouse in a field of sunflowers – we won’t spoil the mystery but the team takes you on a truly world class dining journey not to be missed.
ÄNG was founded by chef-and-sommelier husband and wife team Filip and Ann-Catrine Gemzell who work closely with local producers, hunters and fishermen who share the restaurant’s philosophy on sustainability and organic farming. The wine cellar holds an impressive 3,500 bottles, and they also offer a tasting breakfast – a real treat for the senses.
The hotel offers wine tasting and vineyard packages year round.
For further details see the Ästad Vingård website.
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Victoria is a seasoned travel writer who has spent decades travelling the globe promoting ‘flavour tourism’. Whether truffle hunting in the hills of Piedmont to exploring the agave fields of Jalisco, Victoria passionately weaves together local food, drinks and culture. She is a freelance contributor to the likes of Condé Nast, The Telegraph, The Independent and more.
