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Decanter’s Dream Destination: Areias do Seixo, Santa Cruz, Portugal
Every month, Decanter selects a must-visit destination for wine travellers. Here, Decanter's Regional Editor for Portugal, Ines Salpico, discovers a haven for food, wine and surf lovers on Lisbon's Atlantic coast.
Perched over the dunes on Portugal’s northwestern Atlantic coast, an hour’s drive from Lisbon, is Areias do Seixo, a boutique hotel and 23 villas marrying eco-mindulfulness and sophistication; an Atlantic soul with cosmopolitan flair. The aesthetic is quiet luxury meets India by way of Marrakech, with surfaces of glazed concrete, polished wood and warm lighting creating an atmosphere of elegant rusticity.
Owners Marta Fonseca and Gonçalo Alves have a solid background in hospitality and this comes through in the attention to detail, cohesiveness of the concept and proactive politeness of the staff. The quietness, luminosity and sea-kissed air define the location and, to a great extent, Areias do Seixo, a project strongly anchored in its surroundings.
A pool of one’s own
Guests staying at private villas have their own heated swimming pools, while activities and services available to all include yoga, sound baths, a woodfired hot tub, on-site spa and tours of the permaculture vegetable garden that supplies the onsite restaurants. No surprise then that the latter rely heavily on seasonal, local produce, through contemporary interpretations of Portuguese traditional cuisine. The wine list covers interesting producers across Portugal’s many regions but it’s particularly worth exploring the local wines.
One of the villas at Areias do Seixo | Courtesy of Areias do Seixo (via Wines of Lisboa)
(Image credit: Credit Unknown)
Local wine gems
Indeed, Areias do Seixo is an ideal base for exploring the Lisboa wine region and its singular DOCs and grape varieties. Within a 20- to 30-minute drive you can visit some of Portugal’s smallest and most intriguing appellations, including Torres Vedras, Bucelas, Colares and Carcavelos.
The local viticultural wealth is, in itself, reason enough to set up camp at Areias do Seixo. The region of Lisboa has become a hotspot of sustainable, winemaker-led projects and it’s well worth making your way across the winding roads and rolling hills and visit producers such as Haja Cortezia (37km to the south), Vale da Capucha (20km, southeast), AdegaMãe (16.6km, southeast) or Quinta da Boa Esperança (24.7km, southeast), to name but a few.
A great opportunity to meet the producers and taste the region’s saline Arintos, refreshing reds (mostly from the very underestimated yet supremely delicious Castelão) or mouthwatering takes on Sercial.
The region’s producers are creative and experimental and you’ll find delicious, unexpected pét-nats, moreish rosés and orange wines alongside benchmark classics such as the singular Malvasias de Colares.
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After the visits and tastings it won’t be hard to find places to eat – although you might be tempted to simply stock up on the region’s fresh vegetables and seafood and cook back at your villa.
Courtesy of Areias do Seixo (via Wines of Lisboa)
(Image credit: Credit Unknown)
Hungry for adventure
For all the activities, services and easily accessible food & wine, the true appeal of Areias do Seixo is the ocean. The beach is just a 5-10-minute walk away across soft, pristine dunes. You’ll arrive at the top of a dramatic escarpment where steps, nestled in the rock, take you down to the sand and sea.
Early risers might want to work for their lunch and go mussel-hunting – a fun activity that is also great exercise and a way to be fully immersed in the smells, sounds and textures of the Atlantic.
Once your bucket is full, make your way back and Gonçalo and his team will happily cook your catch at the outdoor kitchen, with a glass of a crisp Lisboa Arinto in hand.
Praia do Seixo, a mere five-minute walk from Areias do Seixo |
(Image credit: Kerry Murray for Wines of Lisboa)
Back at the beach, the more adventurous can book surf lessons guided by certified instructors – or simply rent a board and show off surfing skills. Areias do Seixo is at the epicentre of one of the world’s surfing hotspots; Praia de Santa Cruz – where Areias do Seixo has a sister project, Noah’s Surf House – just a few kilometres away. Meanwhile, the iconic Nazaré, of ‘Big Wave’ and Garrett McNamara fame, is 75km to the north.
After your surfing session, warm up in the hot tub back or around the fire pit at Areias do Seixo. This is a place to truly slow down, embrace the landscape and enjoy the many experiences both nature and luxury accommodation afford.
Getting there: You can easily fly to Lisbon. From the airport you can either arrange a transfer or rent a car. We advise you to do the latter as you’ll need it to explore the surroundings more freely.
Ines is Decanter’s regional editor for Spain, Portugal and South America. Born and raised in Lisbon, Portugal, she grew up chasing her grandfather among his vines in Ribatejo and thus her love for all things wine began. After completing her Masters Degree in Architecture, Ines worked as a project manager while writing about wine and doing cellar consulting on the side. After moving to London in 2015, she decided to dedicate herself fully to the wine industry and joined the sommelier team at Michelin-starred Spring, Somerset House. Stints at Noble Rot and The Laughing Heart followed, while completing her WSET Diploma in Wines and Spirits. Her work as a judge and writer eventually became her full time commitment and she joined Decanter in 2019 as wine database editor.
