This article contains: top 10 producers
- Jean-Claude Bachelet (St. Aubin)
- Bachelet-Monnot (Maranges)
- Henri et Gilles Buisson (St. Romain)
- Domaine Comtesse de Chérisey (Blagny)
- Domaine Lucien Jacob (Échevronne, Hautes Cotes)
- Domaine Lafouge (Auxey-Duresses)
- Monthélie-Douhairet-Porcheret (Monthélie)
- Agnès Paquet (Meloisey, Hautes Cotes)
- Elodie Roy (Maranges)
- Anne-Marie et Jean-Marc Vincent (Santenay)
- A top-end choice: Domaine d’Auvenay
Jean-Claude Bachelet (St. Aubin)
The Bachelet family has been making wine in the Côte de Beaune for eight generations.
Brothers Benoît and Jean-Baptiste took over from their father Jean-Claude Bachelet ten years ago, and today work ten hectares spread over St.Aubin, Chassagne, and Puligny.
They introduced biodynamic practices in 2015, were certified in 2019, and their work today sets a reference standard for the village.
Bachelet-Monnot (Maranges)
Brothers Marc and Alexandre Bachelet have been at the helm of the family’s domaine since 2005, when their father Jean-François hadded over the baton. Their grandfather Bernard Bachelet founded his iconic eponymous estate in Chassagne.
Today, the brothers farm a total of 22 hectares from their base in Dezize-lès-Maranges, and their holdings range from the Hautes-Côtes to Maranges, Puligny, and just over half a hectare of Bâtard-Montrachet.
Although they are among the lesser-known members of the Bachelet clan, they merit more attention.
Henri et Gilles Buisson (St. Romain)
The Buisson family has farmed in Saint-Romain for eight generations.
Henri Buisson began to bottle his wine at the domaine after the Second World War, and today his grandsons Frédérick and Franck work a total of 20 hectares, certified organic since 2009 and using biodynamic methods.
In the winery, the emphasis is on using a very gentle hand with completely ripe fruit and minimal intervention. The reds are very good indeed; the whites are superb and repay cellaring.
See alsoBack Roads of Burgundy, Part 1: the Côte de Beaune
Domaine Comtesse de Chérisey (Blagny)
Laurent and Hélène Martelet are based in the hamlet of Blagny where they farm just over 8.5 hectares of old vines.
Their prize holding is nearly four hectares of their monopole, premier cru La Genelotte, 10% of which is planted to Pinot Noir. The terroir lends itself to the production of racy, elegant wines that express the nature of these lofty vineyards at the top of the slope.
These are wines of great purity and precision, not to be missed.
Domaine Lucien Jacob (Échevronne, Hautes Cotes)
Based in Echevronne, high in the hills above Pernand-Vergelesses, Domaine Lucien Jacob is run today by Jean-Michel Jacob, grandson of the founder.
Jean-Michel and his family now farm 15 hectares of vines, half in the Hautes Côtes and the balance in Savigny-lès-Beaune and Pernand-Vergelesses.
Yields have been brought down, the ripeness pushed forward, and the fruit is rigorously sorted on a vibrating sorting table to produce top quality wines that retain their unique regional character.
Domaine Lafouge (Auxey-Duresses)
Although the Lafouge family has been growing grapes in Auxey-Duresses since the 17th century, they did not bottle at the domaine until 1986.
Today, Gilles Lafouge farms the ten-hectare estate with the help of his son Maxime. Holdings include some venerable old vines, stretching from Auxey to Pommard and Meursault.
The wines are fermented in a traditional, non-interventionist manner with little new oak and plenty of character.
Monthélie-Douhairet-Porcheret (Monthélie)
This centuries-old domaine is now on to its third lease on life, as the granddaughter of André Porcheret, the well-known former winemaker of the Hospices de Beaune and Domaine Leroy, works to establish sustainable methods in these classic vineyard sites.
Traditional methods in the winery and modest use of new oak deliver elegant results, true to the character of the village.
Agnès Paquet (Meloisey, Hautes Cotes)
This young vigneronne based in the Hautes Côtes village of Meloisey is in organic conversion, and 2021 will be her first organic-certified vintage.
Her 13 hectares are spread between the Hautes Côtes, Auxey-Duresses, Pommard, Chassagne, and Saint-Aubin.
Red and whites alike benefit from a non-interventionist philosophy, and deliver intense, flavourful results in a modern style.
Elodie Roy (Maranges)
Elodie Roy worked at Domaine Anne Gros for more than a decade after a career in law and banking. In 2018, she took over her parents’ estate in Cheilly-lès-Maranges, and today farms ten hectares in seven appellations in and around Maranges. She rigorously sorts her fruit, and only keeps the best of the crop for herself.
The results of this selection are wines of precision, volume, and power.
Anne-Marie et Jean-Marc Vincent (Santenay)
Jean-Marc Vincent and his wife Anne-Marie took over his grandfather’s vines in the late 1990s, and today work just over 6.5 hectares spread over 14 appellations.
The work in the vineyard is laborious: new plantings are done at extremely high density, and he practices tressage (braiding) of the shoots rather than trimming. Harvest is done with multiple passes through the vines.
The attention to detail is evident in the wines: these are some of the most profound wines in the village, on a par with any in the Côte de Beaune.
For a top-end choice: Domaine d’Auvenay
The legendary Maison Leroy was founded in Auxey-Duresses in the 19th century. Today the official address of the Maison is still in Auxey, although the headquarters of Domaine Leroy is in Vosne-Romanée.
Proprietor Lalou Bize-Leroy also makes the wines of Domaine d’Auvenay from her home base in Saint-Romain.
Although all three operations transcend the scope of an article on the ‘Back Roads of Burgundy’, Domaine d’Auvenay has produced Auxey-Duresses from vines in Les Clous and Les Boutonniers in the past.
In recent years the Auxey-Duresses has all been sold as Maison Leroy. It is rarely available, although it does come up sometimes at auction.[\breakout]
Wines from Charles Curtis MW’s must-know Côte de Beaune producers
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Domaine d’Auvenay, Les Clous, Auxey-Duresses, Burgundy, France, 2004
A treat from collector friends, this bottle of 2004 Auxey-Duresses ´Les Clous´ from the Domaine d’Auvenay still shows well despite the advancing years. Surprisingly youthful notes of apple and freshly cut flowers on the bouquet lead to a pleasantly silky texture with an elegant balance between the vibrant acidity and the rich extract. Drinking perhaps at its peak now, it is a delight and well worth the wait.
2004
Domaine d’AuvenayAuxey-Duresses
Domaine Jean-Claude Bachelet, St-Aubin, 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien, Burgundy, France, 2018
Bachelet owns just under a quarter-hectare on the plateau above the vines in Premier Cru En Remilly. This is an ideal placement for a hot year such as 2018, and the vines deliver a wine with a lush, floral nose and flavours that are very fine and lacy. Bachelet opines that this is 'everything the appellation is about, really the archetype of St. Aubin’. The wine is not lacking in substance, but it is the finesse that is truly amazing here.
2018
Domaine Jean-Claude BacheletSt-Aubin
Domaine Jean-Claude Bachelet, St-Aubin, 1er Cru En Remilly, Burgundy, France, 2018
The Bachelet brothers work two parcels in En Remilly, very close to Montrachet. This magnificent south-facing vineyard has very thin white marl soils (30 - 40 cm), making this a warm, sunny terroir. This effect is accentuated by relatively young vines, which combine to deliver a wine that is open and forward with notes of ripe apple, a bit of smoke and reduction from the maturation along with a texture that is round and charming, finishing with ‘good bitterness’ and plenty of volume but never any excess.
2018
Domaine Jean-Claude BacheletSt-Aubin
Domaine Comtesse de Cherisey, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny, Burgundy, France, 2018
<p>This high-altitude 1.7ha site at 300 metres used to be planted with Gamay after the war, but is now a white wine vineyard. Aged in 60% new wood, it's a classic example of what Blagy can achieve in hot vintages and how it has become much less marginal. Precise, tangy and zippy, with the freshness and crunch from early picking starting on August 23rd.</p>
2018
Domaine Comtesse de CheriseyPuligny-Montrachet
Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson, Sous la Velle, St-Romain, Burgundy, France, 2019
Produced from vines aged 60 to 90 years, planted in marly soils at 375 metres on the east-facing site below the village. The wine has a seductive richness to it, with lush, ripe apricot aromas enlivened by hints of lemon peel, mineral and smoke. The long maturation on the lees in fairly neutral casks gives this a slightly smoky, reductive cast that augurs well for long ageing. There is plenty of crisp acidity to balance the richness – definitely a wine for the years to come.
2019
Domaine Henri & Gilles BuissonSt-Romain
Domaine Bachelet-Monnot, Maranges, 1er Cru La Fussière, Burgundy, France, 2019
The Bachelet brothers have 6.5 hectares in total on the south-facing slopes of premier cru La Fussière. There is about a hectare of recently replanted vines, and the rest is 50 years of age or older, planted on thin soils over limestone. These deliver a wine that has plenty of black fruit and notes of liquorice on the nose. But notable, above all, are its firm tannic grip and concentration. Perhaps the finest terroir in Maranges.
2019
Domaine Bachelet-MonnotMaranges
Domaine Agnès Paquet, Auxey-Duresses, Burgundy, France, 2019
Produced from the 90-year-old vines that her family has owned since the 1950s, this is a superb example of the appellation. The vines come from a five-hectare parcel in the lieu-dit ‘Le Hoz’, deep in the valley near the hamlet of Melin, a perfect terroir for Chardonnay. Gently pressed then fermented and aged in cask (15% new), this shows aromas of ripe white peach and a hint of coconut milk. The texture is creamy and rich, yet there is plenty of acidity to balance the weight of the wine. Lovely.
2019
Domaine Agnès PaquetAuxey-Duresses
Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson, Combe Bazin, St-Romain, Burgundy, France, 2019
The grapes are from a parcel of fairly young vines facing southwest at 350 metres elevation. The wine is fermented in tank with a small inclusion of whole clusters and a cool, gentle fermentation before ageing for a year in cask. The result has forward blackberry fruit with hints of violet and minerality. The texture on the palate is simultaneously firm and fresh. Youthful, exuberant, and vibrant, this should age well for a decade or more.
2019
Domaine Henri & Gilles BuissonSt-Romain
Domaine Monthelie-Douhairet-Porcheret, Cuvée Miss Armande, Monthélie, Burgundy, France, 2019
Named in honour of Armande Duhairet, this wine is produced from nearly a hectare in the south-facing parcels of Les Darnées and La Combe Danay, planted with vines averaging 50 years of age. The fruit is carefully sorted and lightly crushed before fermentation in used 500-litre casks, followed by a year of maturation and another three months in tank, to deliver notes of lemon peel and chamomile and a light, fresh texture on the palate.
2019
Domaine Monthelie-Douhairet-PorcheretMonthélie
Domaine Anne-Marie & Jean-Marc Vincent, Santenay, 1er Cru Passetemps, Burgundy, France, 2015
‘Passetemps’ is the Premier Cru just south of Gravières, planted in white marl with limestone pebbles, resembling its more well know neighbour. Vincent relates that his 0.81-hectare parcel normally provides his ripest fruit. This wine, a magnum from my personal cellar, is just starting to open up with plenty of ripe plummy, violet-scented fruit but also an earthy, savoury edge that is slightly rustic and slightly salty. The texture is fresh and lively, and the initial richness of the wine has become a harmonious, elegant expression of southern Côte de Beaune.
2015
Domaine Anne-Marie & Jean-Marc VincentSantenay
Domaine Elodie Roy, Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France, 2019
This Maranges-native trained with Anne Gros before taking over her family’s vineyards in Maranges in 2018. This delicious wine from a modest appellation shows the potential of the domaine. The wine is fermented in tank with 50% whole clusters to deliver super-ripe blackberry fruit redolent of exotic spices and floral notes on the nose with compelling density, velvety texture, and impressive length.
2019
Domaine Elodie RoyHautes-Côtes de Beaune
Domaine Lucien Jacob, Les Larrets Blancs, Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France, 2020
The lieu-dit ´Les Larrets Blancs´ is a south-facing slope with white marl soils at between 400-450 metres elevation, that has produced surprisingly ripe fruit with notes of rich white peach and fresh apricot. Ageing the wine for a year in acacia barrels brings a pronounced floral note. The aromas are sustained by a lively fresh acidity and enough substance to bring it into marvellous balance.
2020
Domaine Lucien JacobHautes-Côtes de Beaune
Domaine Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses, Burgundy, France, 2016
The Villages Auxey from Lafouge is wonderful value. Blended from plots scattered throughout the village, the grapes are partly destemmed and given a cold soak prior to fermentation on natural yeast and ageing with a moderate proportion of new casks. The result has moderately deep colour and dark berry fruit character with an engagingly earthy edge and just a hint of menthol from the stem inclusions. On the palate the wine has an ethereal, perfumed character, light body, and a pleasantly silky texture.
2016
Domaine LafougeAuxey-Duresses