Andrew Jefford – ‘Wine is hard to unearth in France’s present-day cultural identity’

Those of us whose mother tongue is English know what lies on the other side of the hill. Grass – grass of a dark, juicy sumptuousness unattainable over here, on this side. The familiar proverb came to mind while reading the Australian-themed articles in this issue.


What I’ve been drinking this month

I’m impressed with the Roussillon collection of Jean-Marc Lafage – a huge range, but very well made and well priced, including a fine white blend, La Grande Cuvée Blanc 2015, and a sour-cherry red from the less well-known zone of Les Aspres, Cuvée Léa 2015. Best of all, though, was the Château St Roch, Chimères 2015 from Maury, a joint-venture with US importer Eric Salomon: creamy blackberry scents and dramatic flavours with plenty of nerve, stone and sinew behind the ripely beguiling fruit.