Barbaresco Riserva 2017 vintage report plus top picks
A small turnout of Barrbaresco Riserva 2017 raises the question: does it make sense to produce a Riserva in such a year?
Defined as ‘the harvest of the dust’, 2017 was remembered as an impressively dry vintage.
‘Harvesting took place around 20 days early in Monferrato, with very low yields, and around ten days early in the Langhe, with below-average but satisfactory yields for Barolo and Langhe Nebbiolo, and a little poorer for Barbaresco’ reported winemaker Stefano Chiarlo.
Early picking and naturally lower yields due to the drought were among the main factors that made 2017 so challenging. The tannins are quite often a bit rustic and dry but most producers didn’t make the mistake of waiting for full phenolic ripeness.
‘In order to ensure elegance, freshness and avoid excessive alcohol content, we started harvesting ten days before the usual date [20-27 September]’ added Stefano Chiarlo. Indeed, the 2017s are in general quite fresh and enjoyable, rarely jammy or over-extracted.
The question is: does it make sense to produce a Riserva in such a year? The samples of Barbaresco Riserva 2017 presented at Nebbiolo Prima were few and far between – which starts to answer the question. For those producers who manage the best plots – old vines, proper canopy management, and more moderate east- or southeast-facing sites – the Riserva category deserves attention.
Some producers have tried to mask the angular tannins of the 2017 vintage under a veil of oak and the prestige of the ‘Riserva’ label, however the best wines show concentration and refinement – although they’re not for long ageing.
Aldo’s pick of Barbaresco Riserva 2017 wines:
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Castello di Neive, Albesani Vigna Santo Stefano Riserva, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
One should think that the south-southwest exposure of Santo Stefano within the Albesani MGA would exacerbate the dry character of the vintage, and from an...
2017
Castello di NeiveBarbaresco
Produttori del Barbaresco, Ovello Riserva, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
The profile of this 2017 Riserva is completely different from the more graceful and balanced 2019. Nevertheless, the Ovello of Cantina Produttori del Barbaresco is...
2017
Produttori del BarbarescoBarbaresco
Battaglio Briccogrilli, Serragrilli Riserva, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
Classic on the nose with smoky woodland, a great definition of pomegranate fruit, and camphor and balsamic notes, the delicacy of Barbaresco is here with...
2017
Battaglio BriccogrilliBarbaresco
Ca' del Baio, Asili Riserva, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
This prestigious Asili Riserva comes from vines planted between 1967 and 1999. The grapes are not destemmed for 10% of the mass, and the must...
2017
Ca' del BaioBarbaresco
Francone, Riserva, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
This Riserva shines for its fresh nose of violet, pomegranate, cola jelly and deep, vibrant cherry fruit. The attack is vibrant as well, with refined...
2017
FranconeBarbaresco
Musso, Pora Riserva, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
Dense garnet in the glass, this Pora from Musso is more perfumed than powerful. The extraction of the dry 2017 grapes was moderate and here...
2017
MussoBarbaresco
Punset, Riserva, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
An organic estate energetically managed by Marina Marcarino. Here, the fermentation is spontaneous with indigenous yeast and the maceration long; even more than four weeks....
2017
PunsetBarbaresco
Roberto Sarotto, Currà Riserva, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
The evidence of small oak seems to be underlined by the warm character of 2017. If the darker colour and refined tannins are good from...
2017
Roberto SarottoBarbaresco
Abellonio Roberto Cascina Piccaluga, Casot Riserva, Barbaresco, Treiso, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
The cooler profile of Treiso is not disregarded here in the Casot MGA at 350 metres above sea level. This Riserva is tantalising for its...
2017
Abellonio Roberto Cascina PiccalugaBarbaresco
Socré, Roncaglie Riserva, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
A graceful Barbaresco focused on a floral bouquet combining rosebud and violet aromas, not without vibrancy of strawberry fruit and dried cherry. The tannins are...
2017
SocréBarbaresco
