Barolo Riserva 2015 vintage report: 30 wines tasted
Aldo Fiordelli assesses the Riserva 2015 vintage, tasting and rating over 30 wines, and considers where the category fits in the overall hierarchy of Barolo.
The 2015 vintage
2015 was a warm yet good vintage.
According to Langhe Vini, the consorzio for Barolo, Barbaresco, Alba, Langhe and Dogliani, ‘the climatic conditions recorded at the beginning of the summer laid the foundations for the ripening of the grapes about 10 days earlier than in the previous vintage, but in line with what we would call a “normal” year.
‘In terms of quantity, production was on average within the norm.’
Scroll down to see Aldo’s top-scoring Barolo Riserva 2015 wines
The insolation improved the colour-giving anthocyanins accumulated within the grapes.
In the finished wines, the quality of the tannins ensures elegant, long-lasting Riserva with good structure.
The 2015 vintage has been compared to 1999 by some commentators.
In my opinion, 2015 is without a doubt a good vintage – 4 out of 5 stars – with some outstanding wines, however, some of the wines are rather bold and lacking freshness.
Barolo trends
So, has Barolo Riserva gone out of fashion?
There is no doubt that the birth and development, since 2010, of the Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (MGA) – 181 specific subzones within the Barolo appellation – has overshadowed the prestigious Riserva category.
Of course, MGA and Riserva could move forward arm in arm.
The idea was suggested at the last Nebbiolo Prima preview, where 330 wines were tasted but only 31 of which were Barolo Riserva.
These particularly long-aged wines represent a niche production, but the selection presented at Prima does not illustrate the whole picture.
What can be said is that the 2015 vintage was a great opportunity to produce a top Barolo built to age.
Despite labels such as Monfortino, which is the guiding light for Riserva, I must admit that I would have expected a bit more quantity and quality from the 2015 Riserva.
In terms of quality, outstanding examples aren’t lacking, mainly from suitable MGAs such as Bricchi or Sorì.
In terms of quantity, a lot of producers are releasing still-older Riserva: Oddero’s Vignarionda 2014, Domenico Clerico’s PerCristina 2011, Parusso’s Oro 2000.
This is a long-time tradition in Barolo, ever-present and possibly reinvigorated by the birth of the MGA system.
‘Riserva,’ explained Fabio Alessandria at GB Burlotto, ‘is an old idea of ancient winemaking based on high alcohol and cellaring to achieve quality’.
Top Barolo Riserva 2015 wines:
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Massolino, Vignarionda Riserva, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
Massolino not only manages the biggest part of Vignarionda, but also in my opinion, it has to be said that this estate has the merit...
2015
MassolinoBarolo
Ettore Germano, Lazzarito Riserva, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
Extremely pale and brick coloured, typical of Serralunga, this is intensely scented with macerated violets, roses, blood orange and rhubarb root. The palate is fiercely...
2015
Ettore GermanoBarolo
Oddero, Vigna Mondoca Riserva, Barolo Bussia, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
Vigna Mondoca is a warm cru with southern exposure within the broad Bussia MGA. A warm vintage combined with a warm cru over warm soil...
2015
OdderoBarolo Bussia
Cavallotto, Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe Riserva, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
Alfio Cavallotto, a well known organic producer in Castiglione Falletto, owns 15.5 hectares of Bricco Boschis from its total of 17ha - it was a...
2015
CavallottoBarolo
Brezza, Sarmassa Vigna Bricco Riserva, Barolo, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
Fully exposed, the vineyard of Bricco Sarmassa is based on typical Sant’Agata Fossili marls and gains particular structure and weight compared to the other wines...
2015
BrezzaBarolo
Ca' Brusà, Bricco San Pietro Vigna d'Vai Riserva, Barolo, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
Vigna d'vai is the heart of Bricco San Pietro, the biggest Barolo MGA (more so than Bussia), and is situated in the centre of a...
2015
Ca' BrusàBarolo
Palladino, San Bernardo Riserva, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
Imagine an inverted 'L' looking at the San Bernardo MGA within Serralunga: Palladino owns this part of the cru, which is the highest but also...
2015
PalladinoBarolo
Cascina Ballarin, Bricco Rocca Riserva, Barolo, La Morra, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
Bricco Rocca is rightly considered a more approachable Barolo, and its reputation is even more true in a warm vintage such as 2015. Based on...
2015
Cascina BallarinBarolo
Sobrero, Pernanno Riserva, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
Pernanno has been produced as a Riserva since 1998. It's a one-hectare vineyard at 350 metres above sea level (relatively high in Barolo) with a...
2015
SobreroBarolo
Tenuta Carretta, Cannubi Riserva, Barolo, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
A production of just 1,260 bottles, this hommage to Franco Miroglio is one of the top wines from Tenuta Carretta. Small and fresh, wild strawberry...
2015
Tenuta CarrettaBarolo
Paolo Manzone, Riserva, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
Between Baudana and Lazzarito, the Meriame MGA is deserving of more recognition for its quality. It lies in a small amphitheatre facing south and southwest...
2015
Paolo ManzoneBarolo
E. Molino, Riserva del Fico Riserva, Barolo, La Morra, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
E Molino is a boutique winery of 2.5 hectares managed by Sergio Molino. The grapes are fermented in small oak barrels with manual punching down...
2015
E. MolinoBarolo
Boasso, Margheria Riserva, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
Boasso's vineyards are at the bottom of the well known and rightly celebrated Margheria cru, just below Massolino and Azelia with the typical westerly exposure....
2015
BoassoBarolo
Silvano Bolmida, Riserva, Barolo Bussia, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
Macerated flowers, potpourri and pomegranate are joined by earthy strawberry flavours to make up the elegant style of this Riserva. It has a firm and...
2015
Silvano BolmidaBarolo Bussia
Cavallotto, Vignolo Riserva, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
This talented guy, Alfio Cavallotto, is a faithful example of traditional viticulture in Barolo. Vignolo is a two-hectare vineyard in Castiglione Falletto where, according to...
2015
CavallottoBarolo
Franco Conterno, Riserva, Barolo Bussia, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
Franco Conterno owns 28 hectares of vineyards across Monforte, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto and Novello, producing around 150,000 bottles. The fermentation of his Riserva takes place...
2015
Franco ConternoBarolo Bussia
Le Ginestre, Sottocastello di Novello Riserva, Barolo, Novello, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
Sottocastello di Novello is in the south-westerly tip of the Barolo appellation, extremely exposed to the wind and between sandstone and marl in terms of...
2015
Le GinestreBarolo
