Barolo Riserva 2019: Morris’ 25 top picks

The ‘classic’ 2019 Barolo vintage yielded exciting annata wines, and now the Riserva bottlings are under scrutiny with their release this year.

This report delves into the vintage’s unique profile, examining how its structure translates at the Riserva level. Discover which producers and vineyards have harnessed these characteristics to create wines of exceptional quality and longevity.

Explore the nuanced differences between annata and Riserva bottlings, and gain insight into the ageing potential of specific selections.

In this article:

• An assessment of the Barolo Riserva 2019 bottlings.
• The impact of vintage on Riserva expression.
• What Barolo Riserva 2019 to drink when
• Barolo Riserva 2019: 25 recommendations

Scroll down for Michaela’s pick of the 2019 Barolo Riservas

The widely touted 2019 Barolo vintage has been hailed as ‘classic’ by many. While the term is debatable, the annata (non-Riserva) wines excited me for their tension and tautness.

Complete without being excessive, they were refreshingly reasonable in alcohol levels and youthfully austere. I was therefore curious how this would manifest at the Riserva level.

A first look included approximately 40 examples, a few of these still in cask. Tasting them next to the 2021 Barolo, I was reminded that 2019 is slimmer and sinewy in frame, with less textural richness and density.

This does not make for less valid Riserva, however.

Standout sites

The best harness the firm, linear nature of the vintage, balancing fruit purity with refined tannins. In less successful examples, overtly tertiary aromas and flavours juxtaposed with an unyielding structure made me question their potential to age harmoniously.

While some estates take a ‘classic’ approach by blending their best plots from diverse subdistricts, single-MGA bottlings dominate. Above all, the great sites stood out, particularly in Prunotto’s Bussia, Oddero and Massolino’s Vignarionda, and Paolo Scavino’s Rocche dell’Annunziata.

‘Riserva should be a wine that has complexity, structure, tannins and a sophisticated bouquet with excellent potential for ageing,’ explaind Claudio Fenocchio, who makes a parcel selection from holdings in Bussia. His 2019 Riserva delivers on all these fronts.

Bold decisions

Never one to shy away from bold decisions, Roberto Conterno bottled his entire production from Francia and Arione exclusively as Riserva for the estate’s iconic Monfortino label. It epitomises the Riserva spirit.

It also comes at a lofty price, which is a significant factor when considering Riserva. As the annata bottlings already deliver a lot, I am focusing on just the most singular Riserva in 2019. To the ones mentioned above, I would add Elvio Cogno’s brilliantly poised and evocative Vigna Elena.

Most Riserva 2019 will benefit from more time, with an average drinking window of 15 years, though a few propose near-term accessibility. A select handful are built for a solid couple of decades.

What Barolo Riserva 2019 to drink when

Green light: Over the next 10 years

Fontanafredda, Barolo Riserva: This classic blend of historic vineyards is settling into its groove.

Mauro Veglio, Barolo Riserva Rocche dell’Annunziata: Barrique ageing has already softened the tannins in this seductively styled Riserva.

Grimaldi Giacomo, Barolo Riserva Le Coste: The family’s elegant flagship bottling has recently been upgraded to Riserva.

Yellow light: No rush, enjoy over the next 15 years

Prunotto, Vigna Colonnello, Barolo Riserva Bussia: Personality wins over sheer force, but this is not lacking in backbone.

Brezza, Vigna Bricco, Barolo Sarmassa: Mature though not tertiary in nuances while steely tannins have yet to yield.

Elio Grasso, Rüncot, Barolo Riserva: Uber-concentrated and vigorous, this needs a ton of time and may even make it into the 20-year club.

The 20-year club

Oddero, Barolo Riserva Vignarionda: Properly austere without being severe, it is a masterful example of vintage and site.

Giacomo Conterno, Monfortino Barolo Riserva: Powerfully sculpted, this will require years to reveal its underlying finesse.

Elio Altare, Vigna Bricco, Barolo Cerretta: The innate balance is already palpable here, promising harmonious ageing.

Barolo Riserva 2019: Michaela’s 25 recommendations

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