Bolgheri Superiore 2020 preview

In the shadow of the 12th century tower of Donoratico and with a view to the Tyrrenhian shoreline, framed by immaculate vineyards and majestic stone pines and cypresses, I sat down in early September to blind-taste 52 Bolgheri Superiore 2020 wines.

Most were still in fairly embyonic states: some had only just been bottled and some were cask samples. Following Superiore’s mandatory two years of ageing (one of which must be in oak barrels), the 2020 wines can legally be released on 1 January 2023 – although some producers intend to hold their wines back for longer ageing.

Bolgheri Superiore 2020: What to expect

The results of the tasting spoke of a dry yet relatively cool 2020 vintage, although that wasn’t the full story as it was actually quite a warm growing season but with cooling rains at significant points in the maturation of the grapes. A clear indicator of this was the balsamic freshness found in the majority of wines – more so than usual. Drinkers are likely to find these wines a touch lighter and less fruit-driven than the more typical 2019s. Taken as a whole, the 2020s are all about balance and freshness rather than power.

Following two new labels in 2019, there’s one more new Bolgheri Superiore label to be released for the first time in the 2020 vintage: Orma’s Aola di Orma 2020. See my note on this excellent debut below.

The Bolgheri 2020 vintage

A mild and wet winter was followed by a cold March where nighttime temperatures dropped close to 0°C.

Subsequent warm springtime conditions with rain in early May saw regular budding and flowering. There were some big rainfalls in mid-June but then nothing more through the warm, dry summer until the end of August, the latter event dropping temperatures significantly at a crucial stage in ripening.

Temperatures recovered through the first half of September until further rain saw a drop in temperature at the end of the month. As a result, harvest was typically slightly advanced as producers aimed to get grapes in before the late-September rains hit.

‘Merlot and Petit Verdot were harvested in the first week of September, while Cabernet Sauvignon was collected in the second half of the month. A sudden change in temperature and an unusual rainfall along the Bolgheri coast hastened harvesting of the latter in order to bring perfectly ripe and balanced grapes to the cellar,’ explained Stefano Capurso, executive president of Alejandro Bulgheroni Family Vineyards (ABFV) Italy group, which owns Bolgheri estates Tenuta Meraviglia and Tenuta Le Colonne.

‘In a vintage like 2020, we paid particular attention to temperature control during the winemaking process,’ he added.

Read Aldo Fiordelli’s full report on this year’s Bolgheri 2019 releases

Preview: Top Bolgheri Superiore 2020 wines

I found myself rarely dipping below 91 points when tasting the Bolgheri Superiore 2020s at this preview stage, demonstrating that the Superiore wines of this small DOC are of reliable quality across the board. In general they were well balanced, although some were still closed. The best examples showed their potential as poised and precise wines with depth and complexity, combining viticultural and winemaking skill with vintage character.

I Greppi, Greppicaia

I Greppi owns 14 hectares of vineyard in the Bolgheri DOC. My wine of the vintage, Greppicaia 2020 is immediately inviting. A blend of 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc, it charms with its violet-infused balsamic black fruit aromas. Fine, grippy tannins and gum-tingling acidity provide structure in the mouth, with a red-fruit attack followed by fleshy black and blue fruits. There is concentration but the wine leans more towards broad and juicy than tight and focused. 95+

Orma, Aola di Orma

A new addition to the winery’s range for 2020, this Bolgheri Superiore has got off to a great start. Aromas of fresh and dried black fruits, with balsamic freshness upfront, are followed by concentrated black cherry, damson jam and liquorice flavours which mingle in the mouth before mouthcoating chocolatey tannins clamp down. Built for the long haul, its fresh, almost saline, acidity extends the long menthol and black fruit finish. 95

Poggio al Tesoro, Sondraia

Sondraia is majority Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot and Cabernet Franc in support, fermented in stainless steel. It spends 22 months in French oak barriques (70% new) before bottling. Bold black and blue fruits are joined by pronounced coffee bean, cassis and menthol scents. Grippy yet fleshy, subtle touches of wood, cream, chocolate and graphite introduce a lively wine of great balance, light on its feet with an earthy note on the finish. 95

Batzella, Tâm

First produced in 2004, Tâm is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc matured for 24 months in French oak barriques followed by a further 18 months in bottle. This 2020 – a tank sample – is one of my picks of the vintage. Ripe aromas of pomegranate and black cherry lead to a dark fruited palate with touches of chocolate and coffee bean. Intense, concentrated and focused with mouthcoating tannins, it’s well balanced with a fresh, balsamic and vivacious finish. 94

Campo al Mare, Baia al Vento

Founded in 2000, Campo al Mare is owned by Tenuta Folonari and comprises around 30 hectares of vines in Bolgheri. The Baia al Vento 2020 is a blend of 90% Merlot with 10% Cabernet Franc matured in French oak tonneaux and barriques (50% new) for 30 months. Precise and focused, it features a creme de cassis nose with a flourish of violet and coffee. Concentrated yet light on its feet, black fruits give way to balsamic blue fruits and a floral, creamy, chocolatey finish. 94

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