Bourgogne whites: Panel tasting results
The regional APs of Burgundy cover the whole span of its geography. Our judges relished this opportunity to compare wines and find the high points of quality and value among the varied Bourgogne white appellations.
Andy Howard MW, Beatrice Bessi and Georgina Crawley tasted 89 wines, with 3 Outstanding and 28 Highly recommended.
Bourgogne whites: Panel tasting scores
Exceptional 0
Outstanding 3
Highly recommended 28
Recommended 46
Commended 9
Fair 3
Poor 0
Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release or widely available still white wines from any of 13 specified Bourgogne regional appellations
The complexity and geographical range of wines labelled with the Bourgogne regional name was fully displayed in this intriguing tasting, which encompassed many different appellations. Combined with a focus on some of the less well-known areas, this was an opportunity to understand the quality-to-value offer outside the more established Burgundy appellation names.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Bourgogne whites panel tasting
The wines ranged from Côte Chalonnaise in the south to Auxerre and Tonnerre in the north. Some better-known (and highly rated) APs such as Côte d’Or, Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Hautes Côtes de Nuits were included, together with some of the rarely seen regional APs from the Yonne: Bourgogne Chitry, Bourgogne Tonnerre and Bourgogne Coulanges-la-Vineuse.
Many different wine producers were represented with more than half of the entries sourced from domaines, along with bigger négociants and cooperatives including widely known names such as Jean-Claude Boisset, Edouard Delaunay and Nuiton Beaunoy.
The three wines rated as Outstanding impressively covered the full geographical breadth of the wines tasted. Clotilde Davenne produced a wine that would easily pass for premier cru Chablis, while the Côte Chalonnaise shone with a lovely wine from Domaine de Villaine. Jean-Noel Gagnard’s Hautes Côtes de Beaune was a fantastic advert for that appellation, and proved that leading Côte d’Or producers such as Gagnard are capable of weaving their magic on seemingly less-favoured terroirs.
In the light of the continuing rise in prices for anything with a Burgundian origin, this tasting opened up the possibility of finding wines offering great value as well as high quality. Beatrice Bessi commented: ‘At Chiltern Firehouse we are constantly expanding the Burgundy selection,’ and added that ‘there is certainly a need for us to deliver good white Burgundies within a value range’.
See notes and scores for all the Bourgogne whites panel tasting wines
Georgina Crawley sounded words of caution, referring to current pricing of Burgundian wines: ‘Globally, Chardonnay is very well made, with many areas competing qualitatively with Burgundy. The wines also fall comfortably within the same retail price bracket of £15-£50.’
Bessi was particularly impressed with wines originating from the Côte d’Or appellation, nominating the wines from the AP as the ‘highlight of the tasting’, and adding ‘this is already a favourite expression of mine’. She also noted: ‘The Hautes Côtes de Nuits and de Beaune were the most consistent, showing good quality overall.’
Generally, these Bourgogne whites are (with a few exceptions: see drink dates) wines for drinking now, or over the next 12-18 months. Nearly all wines were from 2020, 2021 and 2022, with higher scores for the two most recent vintages. The greater acidity in 2021 seemed to impart the additional freshness the panel was looking for, although there were too many wines from each of the vintages which seemed dull or were over-oaked.
Identifying the right producer for you (or relying on your local wine merchant’s advice) is a sensible way forward, given the range of styles among these regions and vintages. Burgundy from ‘off the beaten track’ can be very good, but there are still too many inconsistencies. But buy the best from this selection and you won’t be disappointed.
Bourgogne whites: Panel tasting scores
The judges
Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A former retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing.
Beatrice Bessi is head sommelier at Chiltern Firehouse luxury hotel and restaurant in central London. A DWWA judge, Bessi is a CMS Advanced Sommelier and WSET educator. She moved from Italy in 2016 and began her sommelier career at 67 Pall Mall.
Georgina Crawley is an experienced and widely travelled wine buyer who has worked for some of the UK’s leading wine merchants for more than 20 years. In this time, she has developed a great passion and knowledge for the wines of Burgundy.
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Clotilde Davenne, Blanc, Bourgogne, Côtes d'Auxerre, Burgundy, France, 2022
Formerly chief oenologist for Jean-Marc Brocard in Chablis, Clotilde Davenne started her own domaine in 2005. Now with 30ha of estate vines, she makes wines...
2022
Clotilde DavenneBourgogne
Domaine A & P de Villaine, Les Clous Aimé, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise, Burgundy, France, 2021
From the family domaine of Aubert de Villaine who, in 2022, stepped down as co-manager of Domaine de la Romanée Conti after 48 years. In...
2021
Domaine A & P de VillaineBourgogne Côte Chalonnaise
Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard, Sous Eguisons, Bourgogne, Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France, 2020
From a 0.41ha plot of 20-year old certified organic vineyards planted on white marl soils under the Eguisons cliff in the St-Aubin commune of La...
2020
Domaine Jean-Noël GagnardBourgogne
Domaine Denis Père & Fils, Blanc, Bourgogne, Côte d'Or, Burgundy, France, 2022
Fresh pear and almond aromas with layers of golden apple, orange, grapefruit and chalky flint. On the palate, lime and stone fruit, an interesting texture,...
2022
Domaine Denis Père & FilsBourgogne
Domaine Mazilly, Clos du Bois Prévot Blanc, Bourgogne, Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France, 2020
Floral with fresh acacia, blossom and honey. A crunchy fruit profile with layers of red apple, tangerine, smoke, cedar wood and cloves. Warm stone fruit...
2020
Domaine MazillyBourgogne
Jean-Claude Boisset, Blanc, Bourgogne, Hautes Côtes de Nuits, Burgundy, France, 2022
Fresh golden apples and honeysuckle. Crunchy fruit, lemon, tangerine and grapefruit. Fresh and bright, fleshy with great tension and structure. Refreshing finish. Should drink well...
2022
Jean-Claude BoissetBourgogne
Nuiton-Beaunoy, Blanc, Bourgogne, Côte d'Or, Burgundy, France, 2022
A pretty nose of brioche, honeysuckle and cream with hints of fresh tropical fruit. Apricot yoghurt and orange blossoms on the palate, showing good complexity,...
2022
Nuiton-BeaunoyBourgogne
R Dubois et Fils, Bonheur de Chardonnay, Bourgogne, Côte d'Or, Burgundy, France, 2021
Touches of honey and buttered toast on the nose. Ripe apple, pear and orange, layers of nutmeg and cinnamon. Vibrant, young, with a grapefruit zesty...
2021
R Dubois et FilsBourgogne
R Dubois et Fils, Le MontBatois, Bourgogne, Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France, 2021
Very cool, subtle and precise wine. The palate is still very young, showing the potential to settle a bit longer. Nice tension to the palate...
2021
R Dubois et FilsBourgogne
Domaine des Perdrix, Blanc, Bourgogne, Hautes Côtes de Nuits, Burgundy, France, 2021
A lifted nose of lemon peel, orange and grapefruit. Good evolution on the palate with plenty of creamy, less-aged character balanced by bright, fresh, lively...
2021
Domaine des PerdrixBourgogne
Domaine Michel Gros, Fontaine Saint Martin Blanc, Bourgogne, Hautes Côtes de Nuits, Burgundy, France, 2021
New oak on the nose with fresh citrus aromas. Vibrant profile with crunchy fruit, lemon zest, orange and tangerine. Savoury spice and toasty oak lift...
2021
Domaine Michel GrosBourgogne
Edouard Delaunay, Charmont Blanc, Bourgogne, Hautes Côtes de Nuits, Burgundy, France, 2021
Very ripe and honeyed on the nose. Refreshing, lovely acidity carries through the fruit flavours, lime zest, grapefruit, with a hint of creme fraiche and...
2021
Edouard DelaunayBourgogne
Etienne Sauzet, Jardin du Calvaire Blanc, Bourgogne, Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France, 2021
Smoky, reductive aromas with ripe red apple, pineapple and orange zest hints. The palate is vibrant, uplifting and refreshing. Honeyed and very frisky with zip...
2021
Etienne SauzetBourgogne
La Luolle, Ecume de Terre, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise, Burgundy, France, 2021
Floral and waxy with a touch of honey and hints of white melon flesh. Golden apple, orange peel and tangerine fruit with vibrant and refreshing...
2021
La LuolleBourgogne Côte Chalonnaise
Prosper Maufoux, Blanc, Bourgogne, Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France, 2020
Creamy, buttery notes on the nose. Ripe tropical profile, banana, mango and pineapple. The palate shows good layers of fruit, oak, smoke, cinnamon, cedar, lemon...
2020
Prosper MaufouxBourgogne
Domaine Gabrielle, Blanc, Bourgogne, Côtes d'Auxerre, Burgundy, France, 2022
Lifting nose, full of layers of citrus, tart lime, orange, grapefruit. Lovely freshness with hints of fresh honeysuckle and acacia, bright and pretty. On the...
2022
Domaine GabrielleBourgogne
Domaine Alain Mathias, Côte de Grisey Blanc, Bourgogne, Tonnerre, Burgundy, France, 2021
Vibrant ripe nose, showing ripe fruit and smoky layers, with time in amphora adding complexity. Pear, apple, peach, nutmeg and clove layer the palate with...
2021
Domaine Alain MathiasBourgogne
Charly Nicolle, Blanc, Bourgogne, Tonnerre, Burgundy, France, 2022
Flowery freshness on the nose with lemon, peach and mineral aromas. The palate is fresh with tart grapefruit and limestone bite. Bright with a hint...
2022
Charly NicolleBourgogne
Domaine Labry, Blanc, Bourgogne, Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France, 2021
Very clean and bright with red apple, tangerine and lime zest on the nose. Nice ripeness of plump fruit, crisp acidity, subtle oak. The palate...
2021
Domaine LabryBourgogne
Domaine Marsoif, Cuvée de Marguerite, Bourgogne, Tonnerre, Burgundy, France, 2022
Concentrated, fleshy peach and notes of green apple. Full of rich fruit and blossom, peach yoghurt, mango and tangerine. The palate feels creamy, with ripe...
2022
Domaine MarsoifBourgogne
L'Embellie Chantal Martin, Blanc, Bourgogne, Côte d'Or, Burgundy, France, 2021
Appealing, fresh peach fruit on the nose. Delicately floral with layers of smoke and spice, red apple, pineapple, cedar and cloves. Savoury with crisp acidity,...
2021
L'Embellie Chantal MartinBourgogne
Patrick Javillier, Cuvée Oligocène, Bourgogne, Côte d'Or, Burgundy, France, 2020
Rounded, rich and oaky. Plush red apple, ginger and orange peel. The palate feels rich, with honeyed fruits and yellow plums. Oaky enough yet with...
2020
Patrick JavillierBourgogne
Domaine Masse, Vielle Vignes Blanc, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise, Burgundy, France, 2021
Ripe citrus profile of grapefruit and orange peel. Mineral on the palate with a creamy texture, like creme fraiche and Greek yoghurt. A pleasing wine...
2021
Domaine MasseBourgogne Côte Chalonnaise
Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet, Blanc, Bourgogne, Côte d'Or, Burgundy, France, 2020
Precise, chiselled and focussed. Ripe, with orange, apple, pear and pineapple. The palate is vibrant, refreshing with layers of fruit, spices, sweet cloves and cinnamon....
2020
Domaine Jean-Philippe FichetBourgogne
Domaine Jomain, Blanc, Bourgogne, Côte d'Or, Burgundy, France, 2021
Mineral aromas laced with orange, lemon and lime. Creaminess on the textured palate, like goat cheese and butter. The wine is almost salty and savoury....
2021
Domaine JomainBourgogne
Nuiton-Beaunoy, Blanc, Bourgogne, Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France, 2022
Roasted stone fruit on the nose with quince, apples, pears and white peaches. Fresh almonds, hints of delicate spice like cinnamon and cotton candy, fleshy...
2022
Nuiton-BeaunoyBourgogne
Simonnet-Febvre, Blanc, Bourgogne, Chitry, Burgundy, France, 2022
Vibrant nose, showing fresh citrus and lovely floral character with layers of golden pear tangerine and acacia flowers. Fresh and clean fruit, very bright on...
2022
Simonnet-FebvreBourgogne
Domaine des Marronniers, Blanc, Bourgogne, Côtes d'Auxerre, Burgundy, France, 2022
The nose shows a ripe profile of orchard and tropical fruit, like mango, guava and melon. Some honeysuckle and yellow fruits and nectarine with a...
2022
Domaine des MarronniersBourgogne
Domaine du Clos des Poulettes, Blanc, Bourgogne, Côte d'Or, Burgundy, France, 2022
Vibrant vertical nose, with lifting aromas of orange and tangerine essential oil. Passion fruit and hints of fresh pineapple on the palate.Very flamboyant in style,...
2022
Domaine du Clos des PoulettesBourgogne
Edouard Delaunay, Blanc, Bourgogne, Côte d'Or, Burgundy, France, 2021
Toasty, oaky nose with hints of pear and almond cake. Fresh acacia honey notes with hints of nectarine echoed on the palate. Ripe with a...
2021
Edouard DelaunayBourgogne
Houblin-Vernin, Tradition Blanc, Bourgogne, Coulanges-la-Vineuse, Burgundy, France, 2022
Hints of fresh nuts and limestone minerals melded with ripe, honeyed fruit aromas. Layers of apple, pear, cucumber and creme fraiche with plum and apple...
2022
Houblin-VerninBourgogne
