Cantina Terlano: crafting white wines for ageing

Produttori del Barbaresco may be the undisputed choice as Italy’s number one red wine co-operative these days, but the top co-op for whites is a closer call. The smart money is on Cantina Terlano, one of the Alto-Adige’s numerous excellent cantine sociali.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 12 top Cantina Terlano wines from 1999-2018

Founded in 1893, today 143 members cultivate some 190ha of vines northwest of regional capital Bolzano on the northern or ‘left’ bank of the river as the Adige valley climbs towards Merano.

The terrain here is largely poor, quick-draining soil of volcanic origin (limestone dominates the opposite flank) and the steep, high altitude vineyards (up to 900m) witness typically warm daytime temperatures and distinctly cool nights.

Excellent versions of the popular local varietals under the umbrella Alto-Adige DOC are fermented in stainless steel with extended lees ageing; the few reds also undergo 6/7 months ageing in classic botte (70% of production is white, higher than the regional average of 64%).

However Terlano’s stellar reputation rests largely on a smaller selection of wines from fruit grown in and around the village and sold under the Terlano banner, a ‘subzone’ of the regionwide DOC since the 1970s. Production centres on the tiny village of Terlano itself, which sits in the crater of an extinct volcano, and includes the neighbouring villages of Nalles and Andriano.

Trademark techniques

The denomination features a ‘generic’ wine consisting mainly of Pinot Bianco, with smaller proportions of Chardonnay and Sauvignon (both planted in the area since the latter half of the nineteenth century) as well as the classic, local, single varietal whites. All are made in the trademark Terlano style of substantial and powerful wines with uncommon ageing potential.

Following fermentation in a combination of stainless steel and wooden botte, the wines receive between nine and 12 months lees ageing. They marry a striking, floral-toned freshness with compelling ripeness and depth of fruit, racy acidity and distinctive, mineral notes. At the pinnacle of this ‘Selection’ range are two Riserva wines, Vorberg, a pure Pinot Bianco, and Nova Domus, a Terlaner cuvée.

While even the winery’s basic Alto-Adige Pinot Bianco DOC wine can age extremely well (a 1955 tasted at the winery back in 2018 was still on its feet), the Riserva wines begin to show Terlano’s true potential.

Vineyards for Vorberg are situated at between 500 and 650m. Juice from whole-cluster pressing is fermented slowly and undergoes full malolactic in large (30hl) oak barrels before a further 12 months in barrel and six months in concrete on the lees before bottling.

Nova Domus, named after the ruined castle (built in 1206) at the entrance to the village, is the classic Terlaner mix of 60% Pinot Bianco, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Sauvignon. Production mirrors that of Vorberg though the Sauvignon component does not undergo malo. Beyond these are two rare examples of the winemaker’s art, both made in tiny lots of around 3,000 bottles per annum.

Super premium

From low-yielding vineyards (35hl/ha) the Super Premium Terlaner Primo Grand Cuvée, mainly Pinot Bianco, up to one third Chardonnay plus a squeeze of Sauvignon (around 3% in the 2018 vintage), is simply an unabashed attempt to create the Le Montrachet of the Alto-Adige. Fermented and matured in oak where it spends 12 months on its lees before bottling, the wine more than lives up to its billing.

Staunch traditionalists

The inspiration behind the Rarity range was longtime winemaker Sebastian Stocker who worked at Terlano from 1955 to 1993. Like fellow enologist the legendary Giorgio Grai, Stocker was a great believer in blending vintages to achieve a consistent style and also a massive fan of Champagne.

He acquired a number of small, stainless steel tanks to pursue his dream of making champagne method wines at Terlano but ended up using them to age still whites on the lees instead. Following fermentation (at up to 24 degrees) the Rarity wine spends 12 months in oak with occasional batonage and racking. It is then transferred to a single 25hl stainless steel tank where it will remain undisturbed on its fine lees for no less than 12 years before bottling (the so-called ‘Stocker’ method).

With a ‘closed’ vintage like 2014, 20 years lees contact is considered more suitable. Though a pure Pinot Bianco is increasingly the preferred option, the Rarity bottling has been a Terlano Cuvée, Chardonnay or, once, even a Sauvignon in previous vintages. ‘Pinot Bianco is the variety we always come back to,’ maintains Klaus Gasser, sales and marketing director.

Likewise the winery prefers to stick to tried and tested production methods. ‘We’re staunch traditionalists here. Our wines are quite simply what our vineyards give us, no more, no less,’ insists Gasser. ‘With careful cellaring, we believe they can last 20 years and more.’

Michael Garner’s top 12 Cantina Terlano wines from 1999-2018

Related content

Introducing appassimento wines from Veneto

Versatility of Vermentino: top dry white picks from across Italy

More people drinking fine wine at home, says UK survey