Chablis alternatives: 30 fresh whites to try
Rising demand and the ravages of harsh weather in 2016 mean that admirers of one of the world’s most famous white wines may need to consider other options. Andy Howard MW recommends his top 30 palate-refreshing dry whites...
Chablis alternatives: 30 fresh whites
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Chablis is renowned for its powerful acidity and ability to age – keep premier cru and grand cru wines for several years and great complexity will evolve in those from top producers and specific vineyards.
Chablis is rarely heavily wooded, and is frequently unoaked – a style that emphasises terroir character. The absence of powerful oak flavours seems increasingly fashionable today, perhaps explaining why global Chablis sales are estimated at 251 million euros annually by the Burgundy wine council (BIVB).
It may also explain the fascination that many winemakers the world over have for this appellation.
The marginal viticultural position of Chablis was confirmed by dramatic events in spring 2016.
In April of that year, nature served a powerful reminder to producers that they were operating in an extreme climate.
The worst frost for almost 50 years decimated huge swathes of Chardonnay vines, and within a month two terrible hailstorms obliterated all hope of a recovery later in the vintage.
Stocks were reduced and pressure on Chablis prices threatened to damage demand, yet consumers have continued to drink even more.
Given the knife-edge climate, and the increased likelihood of severe weather, it seems opportune to consider alternative wines that might appeal to Chablis lovers.
Many winemakers are keen to emulate the style of Chablis, with cool-climate Chardonnays being produced as far afield as the Adelaide Hills in Australia; Chile’s Casablanca Valley; Santa Barbara and Sonoma Coast in the US (to name but a few).
Other wines are made in a Chablis style despite being crafted from different grape varieties.
From the same Kimmeridgian clay/ limestone soil, Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre and Menetou-Salon in the Loire share geology and climate.
Other varieties and areas to consider are volcanic-influenced Carricante (Etna), Fiano (Campania) and Garganega (Soave Classico) in Italy.
Elsewhere, if acidity is the key then Riesling, Furmint, Chenin Blanc and Assyrtiko could be contenders.
Or, perhaps the influence of cooling maritime air can replicate the lean, pure characters of Chablis? If so, then Albariño and Godello (Galicia, Spain) and Melon de Bourgogne (the grape that produces Loire’s Muscade t) may provide the intense focus that consumers seek.
Can any come close to the character of Chablis?
This tasting considered how similar wines were to typical Chablis. Some were very close in character, others were some way apart. It appears that the combination of climate, soil, acidity, intensity and winemaking does make Chablis a unique proposition.
However, many of the recommended wines are stylistically similar in many ways, and lovers of Chablis can experiment with these with confidence.
Grosset, Springvale Riesling, Clare Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2016
Planted on red loam over limestone and slate, this is a softer expression of Riesling. A more pronounced pear character featuring lime zest and grapefruit...
2016
GrossetClare Valley
Tolpuddle Vineyard, Chardonnay, Coal River Valley, Tasmania, Australia, 2014
A cooler vintage allows sweet honeysuckle notes to shine through the fleshy lemon pith, although plenty of dry grip remains in the rich finish, with...
2014
Tolpuddle VineyardCoal River Valley
Andrea Felici, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Le Marche, Italy, 2016
94
Leopardo Felici is a highly rated Verdicchio producer. This wine is from a hilly, cool area between Apiro & Cupramontana and shows bright natural acidity with a mineral overlay. Aged in cement tanks, there are lovely zesty grapefruit and lemon sherbert notes here. Very similar in style and drive to Chablis.
2016
Andrea FeliciVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Dal Zotto, Arneis, King Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2016
Oz Clarke: This is enjoyable with some quite ripe, soft fleshy fruit and good balance. It’s good, though not special. ...
2016
Dal ZottoKing Valley
Pierre Luneau-Papin, Excelsior, Muscadet, de Sèvre et Maine, Loire, France, 2014
The Cru Communal Goulaine refers to a specific site where, 80 years ago, massale selected Melon de Bourgogne vines were planted on bedrocks of micashist,...
2014
Pierre Luneau-PapinMuscadet
Birichino, Jurassic Park Vineyard Old Vines Chenin Blanc, Santa Barbara County, Santa Ynez Valley, California, USA, 2015
Made from old vines planted on a vineyard site where dinosaur bones have been found, located at an altitude of over 300 metres where the...
2015
BirichinoSanta Barbara County
Bründlmayer, Ried Berg Vogelsang Grüner Veltliner, Kamptal, Niederösterreich, Austria, 2016
93
Top Kamptal producer, Bründlmeyer, crafts this early drinking Grüner from the slopes of the Loiser mountain where the soil contains a variety of mica schist called 'Gföhler Gneis'. Vogelsgang ('Birdsong Hill') shows the classic pepper notes of Grüner with hints of star-anise and clove, finishing with a cool, vibrant palate.
2016
BründlmayerKamptal
Kellerei Kurtatsch, Pinot Bianco, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy, 2016
93
A Pinot Bianco with real character from this leading cooperative, with vineyards up to 900m above sea level. The cool, pure air of the Alto-Adige has allowed the Pinot Blanc grapes to ripen slowly, retaining lemon acidity and a plush, concentrated palate. There is great drive and energy here, with a long, mineral finish.
2016
Kellerei Kurtatsch
Manni Nössing, Valle Isarco, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy, 2016
Manni Nossing is one of Italy’s top winemakers and has been awarded Gambo Rosso's Tre Bicchieri on many occasions. In the high alpine Valle Isarco...
2016
Manni Nössing
Pietradolce, Archineri Carricante, Etna, Sicily, Italy, 2016
Located at 850m on the eastern slopes of Etna, 100-120 year old pre-phylloxera Carricante vines give precise, stony, mineral flavours from volcanic soils, freshened by...
2016
PietradolceEtna
Bellwether, Vermentino, Heathcote, Victoria, Australia, 2015
Award winning winemaker Sue Bell has produced this delectable Vermentino from vineyards in Heathcote Victoria, sited on Cambrian soils. There is no hint of bitterness...
2015
BellwetherHeathcote
Bernhard Huber, Bienenberg Grauer Burgunder, Grosses Gewächs, Baden, Germany, 2015
92
Bernard Huber heads up this small family estate in Malterdingen, which is rated one of top 20 German producers by World of Fine Wine. Cistercian monks first planted vines here 700 years ago. Today the cool climate and limestone soils give a taut, mineral expression of Pinot Grigio with a hint of yellow peach. Intense, fresh and lean.
2015
Bernhard HuberGrosses Gewächs
Bruna, Majé Pigato, Liguria, Italy, 2016
Organically farmed from small plots on blue-clay soils dating back to the Pliocene era, at 250m above sea level, husband and wife team Francesca &...
2016
Bruna
Domaine Hubert Brochard, Sancerre, Loire, France, 2016
92
The family domaine of Hubert Brochard is located in Chavignol and consistently produces top quality Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. This has pure, mouthwatering acidity, with flavours of grapefruit and quince, and cleansing mineral flavours on the finish.
2016
Domaine Hubert BrochardSancerre
Domaine Vacheron, Sancerre, Loire, France, 2016
Domaine Vacheron is one of the largest estates in Sancerre, located on flinty-limestone soils to the east of the region. Hand harvested, fermented with wild...
2016
Domaine VacheronSancerre
Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne, Aligoté, Burgundy, France, 2016
Made by the highly popular Olivier Leflaive, this is a great example of the often underrated Aligote. It's decidedly Chablis-like, with just a tiny hint...
2016
Olivier LeflaiveBourgogne
Pieropan, Soave, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2016
91
Clean as a whistle, this is a pristine blend with expressive florals and a crisp apple palate. Great early drinking wine, although this has the balance and concentration to age for a few years.
2016
PieropanSoave
Rocca del Principe, Fiano di Avellino, Campania, Italy, 2016
92
Located in Irpinia, the Fiano grapes come from north to northeast facing slopes at 500-600m altitude. Hand-harvest and vinified in stainless steel followed by 10 months tank ageing, this delicious, concentrated, classy example shows a pale lemon hue and some restrained herbal notes on both nose and palate, allied to zesty acidity and a touch of Italian bitterness.
2016
Rocca del PrincipeFiano di Avellino
Samuel Billaud, Bourgogne d'Or Chardonnay, Bourgogne, Burgundy, France, 2016
92
Vinified in Chablis by leading producer, Samuel Billaud, this is a blend of fruit from Chablis and the Maconnais. It is fermented in steel and aged on its fine lees for six months, giving crisp, clean, lemon notes, a Chablis-like acidity, and a little texture from the Maconnais component.
2016
Samuel BillaudBourgogne
Valdesil, Montenovo Godello, Valdeorras, Spain, 2016
86
Shy pear fruit aromas at first lead to a mineral palate but the alcohol seems a tad high on the finish.
2016
Valdesil
Ca'Rugate, Monte Fiorentine, Soave, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2015
91
Produced from 50 year old vines planted at 220m above sea-level on southwest facing slopes, the Monte Fiorentine vineyard lies on rich volcanic soils in the Monteforte d'Alpone zone. Lemon sherbet notes on the palate are allied with a lean, stony aftertaste.
2015
Ca'RugateSoave
Domaine de la Mortaine, Sur Lie, Muscadet, de Sèvre et Maine, Loire, France, 2016
91
This bone-dry Muscadet, produced by Sébastien Chéreau, is both ‘de Sèvre et Maine’, and ‘Sur Lie’. With a closed, restrained nose there is an abundance of taut, crisp acidity here. Fruit character is green Granny Smith apple in character, with a lingering wet stone finish. A great option for seafood.
2016
Domaine de la MortaineMuscadet
Pellé, Morogues, Menetou-Salon, Loire, France, 2015
91
The leading estate in the Menetou-Salon AC, situated to the west of Sancerre. The 40ha are planted on limestone-clay soils which are rich in marine fossils. Purity and vibrancy are very evident in this Sauvignon Blanc, which is slightly richer than most Sancerre.
2015
PelléMenetou-Salon
Dowie Doole, Vermentino, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2013
Top quality fruit and individual expression of the vineyard are the driving force for winemaker Chris Thomas. From vineyards in the McLaren Vale, a combination...
2013
Dowie DooleMcLaren Vale
Argyros, Atlantis White, Santorini, Aegean Islands, Greece, 2015
A fine example of mineral and zesty Assyrtiko, made from 60 year old vines. In fact, the precise blend is 90% Assyrtiko, 5% Aidani, 5%...
2015
ArgyrosSantorini
Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Oppenheim, Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen, Germany, 2013
90
Founded in 1900, this estate’s main function is as a teaching base for the wine region, with a particular expertise in Riesling. This is textbook: fresh and tangy acidity with delicate apricot and peach characters. Very enjoyable, offering plenty of depth.
2013
Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Oppenheim
Royal Tokaji, Dry Furmint, Tokaj, Hungary, 2015
89
Royal Tokaji was founded in 1990. This well-priced Furmint has a small proportion of Harslevelu in the blend, with hints of mushroom on the nose, a touch of orange zest, green fruit and some herbal notes. There is just a hint of smoky oak to flesh out the bright acidity and mineral edge on the finish.
2015
Royal Tokaji
Eitzinger, Grüner Veltliner Vom Löss, Kamptal, Niederösterreich, Austria, 2016
89
The third generation Eitzinger family own 15ha in the Kamp valley above Langenlois. This Grüner is lightly aromatic, with a fleshy texture and a touch of stone fruit. Lime-driven acidity, good concentration, a powerful finish and just a hint of white pepper are on show in this good value, early-drinking example.
2016
EitzingerKamptal
De Martino, Cascara Chardonnay, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 2016
88
Master winemaker Marcelo Retamal has sourced grapes from cooler areas of Casablanca Valley to produce this Petit Chablis equivalent. It has a pale colour, with hints of wet wool on the nose, and crisp acidity and zesty grapefruit notes on the palate. A little bit of stone fruit ripeness is evident too, and there's a long, mineral finish.
2016
De Martino
