First taste: Clos des Goisses 2009 new release

Simon Field MW reports from an preview tasting of the Clos des Goisses 2009 and Juste Rosé 2007 vintage Champagnes, with tasting notes available exclusively to Premium subscribers.

The charismatic Charles Philipponnat describes the new release from this celebrated walled vineyard as ‘ paradoxically very ripe and very mineral’, which neatly captures the appeal of this famous site, acquitted by the family in 1935.

The steep vineyards faces due south and laps up the sun, yet its proximity to the River Marne and its pure chalky terroir both ensure that this famously hot vintage does not overwhelm the wine’s structure.Quite the contrary; Charles ages the wine in smaller casks than previously, the result rewarded with more grip but less of the oxidative distraction of previous manifestations.

Precision and purity sit well with the generous spicy fruit; the 2009, says Charles with a flourish, has more pixels than other vintages and will age for a decade or more.

Pairing the sublime 2009 is the Juste Rosé from 2007, a rare beast indeed (only 2039 bottles made) and shy of colour but deliciously robust and complex.

See Simon Field MW’s tasting notes for these Champagnes:

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