La-Maison-Massys-vineyards-in-Vaud-overlooking-lake-Geneva.jpg
La Maison Massy’s vineyards in Vaud, overlooking Lake Geneva
(Image credit: La Maison Massy’s vineyards in Vaud, overlooking Lake Geneva)

Swiss wine is one of the wine world’s greatest hidden secrets.

This discreet and exclusive country only has about 15,000ha planted to vineyards, according to the national wine body Swiss Wine Promotion, producing around 0.4% of the global total.

Despite the country’s tiny size, there is incredible diversity in its soils, landscapes and grape varieties, creating notable differences among its wines. Its highest vineyard sites are perched above 1,100m.


See Robin Kick MW’s selection of Switzerland’s finest red and white wines


Vertiginous variety

Terraced-vineyards-in-Valais.-Credit-Swiss-Wine-Promotion.jpg

Terraced vineyards in Valais.
(Image credit: Olivier Maire/Swiss Wine Promotion)

Chiselled into steep hillsides, they provide sun-kissed, well-drained patches of land perfect for grape growing. Lakeside vineyards are bathed in gentle breezes, offering unique microclimates.

The country’s vineyards are spread across six wine regions.

Valais is the largest and is home to the highest concentration of the country’s indigenous grape varieties.

Vaud, the second largest, encompasses most of the vineyards along Lake Geneva’s shores.

The other regions are: Geneva, known for its experimental spirit; Ticino, the heart of Swiss Merlot; Three Lakes, which includes lake Neuchâtel, is a top area for Pinot Noir; and finally Deutschschweiz, a region that encompasses several German-speaking cantons, including Graubünden, Zurich, Schaffhausen and Thurgau.

Great grape diversity

Vaud-is-known-as-being-the-home-of-the-Chasselas-grape.-Credit-Swiss-Wine-Promotion.jpg

Vaud is known as being the home of the Chasselas grape.
(Image credit: Swiss Wine Promotion)

Swiss Wine Promotion notes 168 grape varieties currently registered by the national Federal Statistical Office for use in the canton-based AOC system, although fewer than 100 are planted on an area of at least 2ha.

Many varieties are indigenous, and at more than 3,400ha Chasselas (called Fendant in Valais) is its most planted white grape.

Though it can be shy when young, exceptional versions from top terroirs are capable of ageing for many years, revealing notable complexity.

Chasselas is the variety to pair with sumptuous cheese fondues, but its food-friendly style makes it capable of accompanying many other dishes, such as lake fish and seafood.

Over the past 15 years or so, Petite Arvine has been winning over aficionados’ hearts and palates with its crisp acidity, peachy core and saline finish.

But there are so many other varieties worth seeking out: Räuschling, Humagne Blanche and Amigne, as well as Heida (aka Païen or Savagnin) to name a few.

Beguiling reds

Reds can be beguiling, too. Cornalin, whose origins are not entirely defined but are thought to lie in neighbouring Aosta in northern Italy, has taken on its own deep, vinous personality in Valais.

Well-known international varieties such as Pinot Noir, Syrah and Merlot can also produce world-class results.

Less constrained by the traditions that define many of its neighbours, Switzerland approaches wine with pragmatism and a spirit of innovation.

Agroscope, the country’s trailblazing research institute, has introduced pioneering grape crossings over the years, such as Gamaret, Garanoir, Diolinoir and Doral, alongside resilient Piwi varieties such as Divico – crafted with ecological sustainability in mind.

While less than 2% of Swiss wine leaves the country, its rare gems are increasingly making their way onto international shelves – especially in the UK, US and Asia – while also garnering more attention thanks to the accolades they’ve received from competitions such as the Decanter World Wine Awards.

There has never been a better moment to discover the singular charm of Switzerland’s wines.


Breath of mountain air: 18 Swiss wines to try


Von Salis Wein, Strada Millésime Brut, Schaffhausen, Deutschschweiz, Switzerland, 2023

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The grapes for the Strada sparkling range come from Hallau in Schaffhausen, home to the largest contiguous vineyard in German-speaking Switzerland. This is a play on the Prosecco style, but with 100% Pinot Noir. Like Prosecco, it undergoes its second fermentation in a closed tank. With aromas of fresh pear and some yeasty nuances, this makes for an easy quaffer at parties or as an aperitif.

2023

DeutschschweizSwitzerland

Von Salis WeinSchaffhausen

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Provins, Les Titans Petite Arvine, Valais, Switzerland, 2020

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The Les Titans wines are aged in barrel inside high-elevation dams, in this case at 2,200m within La Grande Dixence. The low pressure, high humidity and cool, stable temperatures of 4°-5°C slow the ageing process, giving the wines greater elegance, expressiveness and freshness. With a gorgeously silky yet firm mineral texture and notes of flowers, white peach, lime zest and brioche, this is a glorious expression of Petite Arvine.

2020

ValaisSwitzerland

Provins

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Domaine des Muses, Euterpe Séduction Blanche, Sierre, Valais, Switzerland, 2022

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This profound, delicious wine combines Petite Arvine with the rarer Humagne Blanche, known for its fuller body and herbal/floral characteristics. The two were fermented and aged separately in barrel for 18 months before being blended and further aged in steel. The wine reveals a gorgeous palate of nectarine, lime zest and brioche, wrapped in a cashew-like creaminess

2022

ValaisSwitzerland

Domaine des MusesSierre

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La Maison Massy, Chemin de Fer, Dézaley Grand Cru, Vaud, Switzerland, 2023

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Vaud hosts 10 AOCs, including three grands crus sculpted into Lavaux’s terraced slopes. Of these, Dézaley produces some of the area’s most concentrated, ageworthy and powerful Chasselas. This displays a copious, penetrating nose and a mouthfilling core of fruit and spice. Notes of lemon and quince are buttressed by zesty white pepper and star anise.

2023

VaudSwitzerland

La Maison MassyDézaley Grand Cru

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Provins, Les Domaines Chapitre Heida, Valais, Switzerland, 2021

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A former co-op, Provins is Switzerland’s largest producer. The Chapitre Heida comes from vines grown on steep terraces with thin, limestone-schist soils. While its nose is fragrant with white pineapple, dried nectarine, pears and spice, its palate delivers an almost sappy, vinous character. It’s aged in amphorae, highlighting the variety’s alluring character and retaining freshness.

2021

ValaisSwitzerland

Provins

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Château Maison Blanche, Yvorne Grand Cru Savagnin Blanc, Chablais, Vaud, Switzerland, 2023

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Château Maison Blanche produces one of Vaud’s finest Chasselas, but it also makes an excellent Savagnin Blanc (also known as Traminer). The grape can ripen well, but the estate has been dialling it back for a more mineral style. Fresh, with notes of sugarloaf pineapple, lime, acacia and beeswax. A refined, chiselled wine with hints of gunflint on the finish.

2023

VaudSwitzerland

Château Maison BlancheChablais

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Domaine Henri Cruchon, Au Clos Terroir Grand Cru, La Côte, Vaud, Switzerland, 2024

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Catherine Cruchon-Griggs produces biodynamic wines that are true expressions of purity and minerality. She makes five Chasselas grands crus, including Au Clos. Wonderfully delineated on the palate, this youthful 2024 exudes delicate floral notes and gently succulent orchard fruits. Crunchy and bright for a Chasselas, which is typically rounder. A great combination of terroir and savoir-faire.

2024

VaudSwitzerland

Domaine Henri CruchonLa Côte

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Jean-René Germanier, Petite Arvine, Vétroz, Valais, Switzerland, 2023

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From one of the leading estates in Valais, this Petite Arvine, grown on the emblematic glacial moraine and clay shale soils, is one of the region’s most classical and pretty examples. Slightly shy on the nose, it opens on the palate with appealing notes of peach, fennel seed, white grapefruit and rhubarb. Its fresh acidity would easily allow this to be served as an aperitif, though its fuller body would make it a good match for fish and seafood.

2023

ValaisSwitzerland

Jean-René GermanierVétroz

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Bechtel, Sélection Räuschling, Zürichsee, Deutschschweiz, Switzerland, 2024

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Räuschling is one of Switzerland’s most interesting indigenous white grapes. This fragrant, zesty variety is the starlet around Zurich, with small amounts found in a few other German-speaking cantons. Aromatic and fresh, this displays red and green apple aromas layered with grassy notes and white flowers. Snappy acidity adds crunch and lift, while the texture remains smooth and plump. A discreet, stylish wine with plenty of character.

2024

DeutschschweizSwitzerland

BechtelZürichsee

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Domaine de Montmollin, Non filtré Auvernier Chasselas, Neuchâtel, Neuchâtel & Three Lakes, Switzerland, 2023

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The region of Neuchâtel is known for its world-class Pinot Noir and Oeil de Perdrix rosé, but top-notch Chasselas is also produced here. This version from Domaine de Montmollin is unfiltered, so it retains a touch of cloudiness, yet all the more flavour. It opens with a lovely citrus nose, with gentle notes of acacia and orange blossom. Fresh and bright, yet also a little fleshy.

2023

Neuchâtel & Three LakesSwitzerland

Domaine de MontmollinNeuchâtel

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Henri Badoux, Aigle les Murailles, Chablais, Vaud, Switzerland, 2024

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Aigle les Murailles is one of the region’s more iconic wines, sometimes referred to as the ‘lizard wine’ due to its distinctive label. Made from 100% Chasselas, this youthful 2024 opens with a touch of sweet, candied green apple, pear and lime curd. Gently exuberant, this characterful wine could be easily enjoyed on its own or to accompany a meal such as cheese fondue, or even with lake fish.

2024

VaudSwitzerland

Henri BadouxChablais

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Varone, Goutte d’Or Johannisberg, Valais, Switzerland, 2021

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Johannisberg, the Swiss name for Sylvaner, is grown mostly in Valais. It’s appreciated for its expressive fruit aromas and spice while embracing a slightly fuller body. An elegant, discreet nose, with fresh slate minerality and spice. With air, it opens up nicely, displaying peaches, fresh grapes, a touch of quince and underlying salinity. Notably Sylvaner in character and quite a charmer, especially once it opens up in the glass.

2021

ValaisSwitzerland

Varone

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Cave de la Côte, Expression Doral, La Côte, Vaud, Switzerland, 2024

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A variety mainly grown in Vaud, Doral is a cross of Chasselas and Chardonnay, aimed at creating a fuller-bodied, aromatic version of Chasselas with more lift and acidity. Cave de la Côte’s Expression Doral embodies these attributes well, with succulent white peach, lacy elderflower and lemongrass. Its appealing fruit core suggests sweetness, but it remains dry. A moderately simple wine, but with plenty of enticing character.

2024

VaudSwitzerland

Cave de la CôteLa Côte

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Donatsch, Passion Pinot Noir, Graubünden, Deutschschweiz, Switzerland, 2021

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Winemaker Martin Donatsch produces wines that are generally more Burgundian in nature, earthier and more mineral-driven. This wine is his middle tier and a fine example of what this hidden gem of a region can create. It’s a delectable blend of cranberry, raspberry and a hint of pink grapefruit, laced with notes of smoke and soy sauce. A fine wine with notable length. Weingut Donatsch has become one of the leading estates in Switzerland, renowned for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Completer, one of the country’s greatest indigenous white grapes.

2021

DeutschschweizSwitzerland

DonatschGraubünden

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Gialdi, Sassi Grossi, Sopraceneri, Ticino, Switzerland, 2022

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Italian-speaking Ticino produces the country’s most powerful and complex Merlots. From gifted winemaker Alfred de Martin, Sassi Grossi is one of the region’s most revered wines, coming from cooler vineyards in the appellation’s north. The 2022 reveals a rich nose of sweet cedar, ripe cherries and bramble fruits. The palate is moderately mouthcoating but has lift and additional notes of graphite, dark chocolate and leather.

2022

TicinoSwitzerland

GialdiSopraceneri

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Domaine des Muses, Tradition Cornalin, Sierre, Valais, Switzerland, 2022

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Cornalin is a variety whose roots are in Italy’s Aosta valley on the other side of the Pennine Alps. However, it has come into its own in Valais and is considered the region’s grandest quasi-indigenous red wine grape. This 2022 opens with lots of sweet black cherries and plums before diverting to notes of black liquorice and cola nut. This would nicely accompany richer, meatier dishes.

2022

ValaisSwitzerland

Domaine des MusesSierre

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Cave de la Côte, Expression Gamaret-Garanoir, La Côte, Vaud, Switzerland, 2023

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This moreish wine is a blend of Gamaret and Garanoir, varieties created by crossing Gamay and Reichensteiner, making them siblings. Gamaret lends spice and structure, while Garanoir adds lift and perfume. This is a user-friendly interpretation that offers copious blackberries, plums and spice. Perfect with pizza or a charcuterie platter.

2023

VaudSwitzerland

Cave de la CôteLa Côte

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Jean-René Germanier, Mitis Amigne de Vétroz Réserve, Vétroz, Valais, Switzerland, 2022

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First documented in the 17th century, Amigne is one of Valais’ rarest indigenous varieties. Though it can produce dry wine, it often hits high notes when produced as an off-dry or sweet wine. This late-harvested 2022, from partially dried grapes, exudes gorgeous notes of orange blossom honey, Mirabelle confiture, baked peaches, fig and a touch of smoke. It has the potential to age beautifully.

2022

ValaisSwitzerland

Jean-René GermanierVétroz

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Robin Kick MW
Decanter Magazine & DWWA Judge

Robin Kick MW currently lives in Lugano, Switzerland and is a freelance buying/export consultant, wine judge, educator and journalist. Following studies in French and English literature, she changed career paths in 1998 when she left her teaching position to study wine at the Université du Vin in Suze-la-Rousse in France’s Rhône Valley. Once she attained her diploma of Sommelier Conseil, she moved back to the United States to work as a fine wine specialist at Christie’s auction house in Beverly Hills, California, where she continued her wine studies through the WSET. In 2003, she returned to Europe and lived in London for 10 years, spending seven of these as the wine buyer for Burgundy and Bordeaux specialist Goedhuis & Co. Kick became a Master of Wine in 2014. Her greatest wine passions are Burgundy, Barolo, Champagne, German Riesling and Madeira. She spends her free time planning her next travel adventure, cooking, and learning Italian. Robin Kick MW served as a Decanter World Wine Awards judge between 2015 and 2018.