Expert’s Choice: South African old-vine Chenin Blanc
Chenin Blanc is arguably South Africa’s greatest vinous asset. Christian Eedes blind-tasted 75 from old vines planted across the Cape, and here picks his 30 highest-scoring wines.
The story of South African Chenin Blanc is nothing if not convoluted.
It is one of the oldest varieties in the country, the conventional wisdom being that it arrived with the Dutch settlers in the 17th century. For a long time it was known as Steen, and it was only in 1963 that it was found to be the same as the Loire’s famous white grape.
During the 20th century it grew to be South Africa’s most widely planted variety and remains so to this day.
Why? For one thing, the KWV, functioning as a sort of super cooperative, gave incentives for decades on the basis of volume, rather than price, and high-bearing Chenin proved itself useful in this regard.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Christian Eedes’ top 30 South African old-vine Chenin Blanc wines
Perhaps the grape’s defining moment, however, was in 1959, when Stellenbosch Famers’ Winery (SFW), an important producer-wholesaler, launched Lieberstein, a low-cost, semi-sweet white, which became the world’s largest-selling branded wine of its era. Chenin was an important constituent of the blend, and this resulted in a spate of plantings.
As recently as 1990, Chenin Blanc comprised more than 35% of the national vineyard. Post political transformation, however, the tendency was to replace it with more fashionable red varieties. Of South Africa’s 92,067ha currently under vine, Chenin Blanc now makes up 17,103ha, or 18.6%.
Old vines, meanwhile, are defined as being at least 35 years of age based on industry convention, and of the 3,693ha registered as such (in 2020), approximately half is Chenin Blanc.
Better with age
While plantings have fallen in recent times, there has simultaneously been a growing awareness among more farsighted producers that the variety has an affinity to local growing conditions and, moreover, that mature vineyards can play a key role in producing wines of excellence.
Plantings are not confined to any one area, and vineyards are not under any sort of consolidated ownership, with the result that it is still relatively easy for aspiring winemakers to gain access to fruit.
A key part of the extremely high quality that old-vine Chenin shows, therefore, is the outcome of healthy competition among the winemaking fraternity.
The old-vine phenomenon gained extra momentum in 2016 when the Old Vine Project was set up with funding provided by businessman Johann Rupert. It’s the outcome of a process going back some 20 years.
Leading viticulturist Rosa Kruger utilised a South African Wine Industry Information & Systems vine registry to scour the land and seek out these old vines. This ensured the most interesting grapes went to producers who could make notable wines from them and consequently ensure appropriate remuneration for the grower.
More than 90 producers have now signed up as members and can apply an official Certified Heritage Vineyards seal to their wines designating the year of planting of the relevant vineyard.
Flavour concentration is the easy answer to what makes old-vine Chenin special, but it’s more than that, as Chris Alheit of Alheit Vineyards explains. ‘In all the massive swathes of Chenin, there are bound to be some good sites: soil, aspect and microclimate combining to best effect, hence why a vineyard has stayed in the ground,’ he says.
‘Mature vineyards have the ability to cope with tough seasons better than young vines do by virtue of better- established root systems. I’ve seen vines self-regulating: lowering crops drastically in dry conditions. Also yields are lower, which means good natural concentration even at moderate ripeness. Dry farming rather than irrigation is important too. Many factors combine to contribute to the quality of old-vine Chenin.’
Christian Eedes’ top 30 South African old-vine Chenin Blanc wines:
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AA Badenhorst, The Golden Slopes, Swartland, South Africa, 2019
Adi Badenhorst is a central figure in the rise of Swartland, and this bottling demonstrates why the district has become so revered. The wine is...
2019
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Chamonix, Old Vine Steen, Franschhoek, South Africa, 2020
The young Neil Bruwer has been head winemaker at this property since 2019, and he could not resist using a 1965 block to produce the...
2020
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David & Nadia, Plat’bos, Swartland, South Africa, 2019
David and Nadia Sadie studied together before getting married in 2009, quickly becoming leading lights in Swartland. Plat’bos, part of their single-vineyard range, is from...
2019
David & Nadia
David & Nadia, Chenin Blanc, Swartland, South Africa, 2019
Grapes for this wine come from seven vineyards spread across Swartland, planted between 1962 to 1982, and all registered with the Old Vine Project. A...
2019
David & Nadia
Keermont, Riverside, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018
Planted in 1971, Riverside is the oldest vineyard on this property. Aromas of white peach, citrus, herbs, spice and a little wet wool, before a...
2018
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Gabriëlskloof, The Landscape Series Elodie, Swartland, South Africa, 2020
The acclaimed Peter-Allan Finlayson, whose own label is Crystallum, also makes the Gabriëlskloof wines. This cuvée is an effort to showcase the ‘national treasure’ that...
2020
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Roodekrantz, Die Kliphuis, Swartland, South Africa, 2020
Roodekrantz is a project that sees two families steeped in wine – the Morkels and the Burgers – combining to channel old-vine fruit from large...
2020
Roodekrantz
Alheit Vineyards, Huilkrans, Citrusdal Mountain, South Africa, 2019
From Jozua Visser’s farm, where vines were planted between 1974 and 1984. Elusive but beguiling aromas of flowers, herbs, citrus and peach, plus a subtle...
2019
Alheit Vineyards
Alheit Vineyards, Magnetic North, Citrusdal Mountain, South Africa, 2019
Sourced from celebrated grape-grower Basie van Lill’s property, planted in 1981 and 1984. Light reduction before citrus, peach and earthiness as well as yeasty complexity...
2019
Alheit Vineyards
Metzer, Maritime, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018
Sourced from a vineyard planted in 1980, 4km from False Bay. A slight leesy note before citrus and peach. Good weight and texture on the...
2018
Metzer
Mullineux, Granite, Paardeberg, Swartland, South Africa, 2019
Chris and Andrea Mullineux established themselves in Swartland in 2007 and are now among South Africa’s most highly regarded winemakers. Grapes for this wine come...
2019
MullineuxPaardeberg
Spice Route, Chenin Blanc, Swartland, South Africa, 2019
An early-picked portion from this 1978-planted vineyard was fermented in tank and matured in clay qvevri, and a later-picked portion in old oak. Dried herbs,...
2019
Spice Route
Tierhoek, OVP, Piekenierskloof, Citrusdal Mountain, South Africa, 2019
From Piekenierskloof, north of Swartland, and Made from the fruit of old vines planted in 1977. A hint of flinty reduction before citrus, peach and...
2019
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Botanica, The Mary Delany Collection, Citrusdal Mountain, South Africa, 2019
Grapes from 1957-planted vineyards. The nose is complex and evocative – floral perfume and herbs before citrus and peach, with some wet wool complexity in...
2019
Botanica
David & Nadia, Hoë-Steen, Swartland, South Africa, 2019
Another of this acclaimed pair’s single-vineyard wines. The site was planted in 1968 between Malmesbury and Darling. Some flinty reduction and wet wool before stone...
2019
David & Nadia
Reyneke, Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2019
Johan Reyneke holds a postgraduate degree in environmental philosophy and is South Africa’s leading proponent of biodynamics. The fruit for this wine is from the...
2019
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Thistle & Weed, Duwweltjie, Paarl, South Africa, 2020
Thistle & Weed is a partnership between Etienne Terblanche, a Vinpro viticulturist, and winemaker Stephanie Wiid, with grapes for this wine sourced from a vineyard...
2020
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Cape of Good Hope, Van Lill & Visser, Citrusdal Mountain, South Africa, 2019
Van Lill and Visser are the growers who farm these 1964-planted vineyards on the famed Skurfberg. Lightly wooded and showing a hint of reduction before...
2019
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AA Badenhorst, Dassiekop Steen, Swartland, South Africa, 2019
Grapes from steeply terraced vineyards planted in the early 1970s on the neighbouring farm to Adi Badehorst in the Paardeberg. The nose shows top notes...
2019
AA Badenhorst
Bellingham, The Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Coastal Region, South Africa, 2018
Oranges, yellow peaches, beeswax and mushrooms on the nose, while the palate is rich with tangy acidity and a savoury finish, making for a rather...
2018
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Kaapzicht, Kliprug Bush Vine Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2020
Another rendition of old-vine Chenin from the Stellenbosch property that also produces The 1947, the vineyard in this instance planted in 1982. Pretty perfume, with...
2020
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Kleine Zalze, Project Z Skin Contact Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018
Project Z was developed to allow the winemaking team at this large Stellenbosch winery to experiment with less conventional techniques and approaches. Grapes for this...
2018
Kleine Zalze
Mullineux, Kloof Street Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Swartland, South Africa, 2020
93
There’s a robust elegance to this wine, poised but with a certain rustic edge. The saline zestiness of preserved lemon is topped by delicate pear peel and orange rind. Nuances of fresh almond and cashew add body, creaminess and complexity. Enveloping, characterful and simply delicious.
2020
Mullineux
L'Avenir, Single Block Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2019
Owned by French wine company Advini, L’Avenir specialises in Chenin Blanc and Pinotage. Here the nose shows ripe peaches, pineapple and some yeasty characters, while...
2019
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Roodekrantz, 1974 Old Bush Vine Chenin Blanc, Coastal Region, South Africa, 2019
From a vineyard planted in 1974 on the Agter Paarl farm, Otterkuil. Aromas of white and yellow fruit, potpourri and spice, while the palate has...
2019
Roodekrantz
Roodekrantz, Donkermaan Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2020
Another in the impressive range under this label, here the fruit is sourced from a Stellenbosch vineyard planted in 1967. Expressive aromas of pear, peach...
2020
Roodekrantz
Villa Esposto, Chenin Blanc, Citrusdal Mountain, South Africa, 2020
Villa Esposto is the top-end range from Klawer Cellars in the Olifants River Valley and fruit for this wine is sourced from 38-year-old Skurfberg vineyards,...
2020
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Cecilia, Chenin Blanc, Piekenierskloof, Citrusdal Mountain, South Africa, 2020
The name of this wine pays homage to the patron saint of musicians – and winemaker Cerina van Niekerk is also a trained concert pianist....
2020
CeciliaPiekenierskloof
Kaapzicht, The 1947 Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2020
Winemaker Danie Jnr’s great grandfather planted these bush vines in 1947, making it the second-oldest Chenin block in the country. The nose shows honeysuckle, apple...
2020
Kaapzicht
Stellenrust, Naked Truth Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2019
Unwooded, hence the name, and sourced from a 45-year-old dryland vineyard on decomposed granite. The nose shows a pronounced leesy note along with citrus and...
2019
Stellenrust