Preview: Comtes de Champagne 2008

The medieval Counts of Champagne pre-dated the Dukes of Burgundy by a century or so; theirs was a world of chivalry and affluence, the trade fairs at Troyes underwriting an age of prosperity for the region which has only recently been equalled with the global success of the modern Champagne trade. Fitting then that one of the greatest wines of the region should acknowledge this great heritage in its name, and all the more so when it sets out to celebrate what is now recognised as the greatest Champagne vintage in living memory, 2008.

And who better, who more essentially French than the Taittinger family to act as custodians for the region? Few names are as redolent of Gallic temperament and savoir faire as Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger and his children, Clovis and Vitalie.

The 2008 vintage is special because of, and not in spite of, its apparently unimpressive meteorological beginnings. A freezing winter ceding to a damp spring and then a distinctly lacklustre early to mid-summer; thereafter the sun came at the right time, and for just long enough to ensure ripening but to preserve an extraordinary tension between sugar and acidity, which has carried wines such as this through over 10 years of ageing into a state of glorious equilibrium. 2008 is purer in outlook than 2002, more balanced than 1996 and more classically constructed than 1990.

Taittinger was founded as far back as 1734, but its flagship cuvée Comtes de Champagne only made its entrance in 1952; the 2008 being its 38^th outing, crowning an illustrious unbroken run going back to 2002. There is to be no 2009, however, somewhat surprisingly, and no 2010 or 2011 either. So, a good time to make hay! For so many reasons…

Sourced from the five outstanding grand cru Chardonnay sites in the Côte des Blancs (Avize, Chouilly, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger) and located on a chalky strip of unparalleled terroir, the Comtes is made only from the first press juice and then aged after the first fermentation in a predominantly aerobic environment, with 5% of new and second-fill oak employed for four months to add the subtlest nuance to the texture. Thereafter the sealed bottles enjoy over a decade of ageing in the UNESCO-protected cellars of St Niçoise at a depth of 18 metres. Disgorgement of the 2008 vintage took place in July 2019 and the wine was dosed at 9g/l of residual sugar.

The Comtes 2008 is one of the very last of Champagne’s big guns to be released (some are onto 2012 already), but it has been well worth the wait. The juxtaposition of a house style which majors on nuance and subtle poetry with a vintage of similar qualities is a great cause for celebration.

The release of the 2008 Comtes de Champagne has been delayed because of coronavirus.

First Taste: Comtes de Champagne 2008

See also: Champagne 2008: A ‘miracle’ year?