Gianni Brunelli: A Brunello vertical

Michaela Morris recently visited the estate of Gianni Brunelli, in Brunello di Montalcino, and tasted through back vintages of its highly regarded wines...

Since Gianni Brunelli’s untimely passing in 2008, his eponymous Montalcino estate has barely skipped a beat, to the credit of his dynamic wife, Laura Brunelli.

Laura took firm control of the property and has rigorously guided it to even greater heights. She works closely with Gianni’s cousin, Adriano Brunelli, who brings years of experience from his long tenure at La Poderina.

Scroll down to see Michaela’s tasting notes

The vineyards

The Gianni Brunelli estate boasts vineyards in two areas. In the northern reaches of Montalcino, Le Chiuse di Sotto was established by Gianni’s father in 1947, and although subsequently sold, Gianni repurchased it in 1987. This north-east facing two hectare vineyard sits at 250 metres and is characterised by a fresh, cool micro-climate.

The Podernovone property, located in the warmer south-east of the zone, was acquired and planted in the 1990s. The 4.5 hectares are divided into four plots with varying exposures averaging 430 metres.Sangiovese from both Le Chiuse di Sotto and Podernovone is blended together for the estate’s Brunellos; the former imparting fragrance and elegance, while the latter, which makes up the backbone, gives structure and power.Though not certified, the vineyards have been cultivated organically from the start. Four years ago, Laura introduced sexual confusion to combat insect pests – large amounts of pheromones are released, making it difficult for the male insects to hone in on the females and mate.

The winemaking

Besides ongoing improvements in the vineyards, the most noticeable investment is the new winery built in 2015. ‘Without it, the estate wouldn’t have had a future,’ asserts Laura.

Vinification doesn’t follow a strict recipe. The only rule is that fermentation temperatures are kept to 26°C to preserve freshness, balance and finesse.

‘In a vintage like 2017, we will probably remove the seeds during délestage to avoid astringent tannin,’ explains Adriano.

Over the last three years, they have introduced a small amount of micro-oxygenation during malolactic fermentation to curb reductive aromas and help fix anthocyanins. This reduces the need for racking and, consequently, SO2 additions. Each parcel is vinified and matured separately in 5 to 30hl botti of various ages.

Laura also tends an impressive garden, growing lavender, rosemary, sage, mint, myrtle, marjoram, oregano and roses. While there isn’t a direct link, her wines evoke these heady scents. Like Laura, they are animated, generous and genuine with palpable depth and soul. There are no empty words here.

Gianni Brunelli vertical: