Great Cabernets of South America

Malbec and Carmenère may have become South America’s most emblematic red varieties, but in keeping with the rest of the wine world, the most-planted wine grape is actually Cabernet Sauvignon. With 50,677ha of vines in Chile and Argentina alone (2022), according to government data, this Bordeaux variety has been the darling of the continent since its arrival some 180 years ago.

In the newly independent South American republics in the mid-19th century, the wealthy elites had a penchant for European fancies. It became a rite of passage to take a ‘Grand Tour’ around Europe, during which many developed a taste for the wines of Bordeaux.

This was the catalyst for developing the wine industries of Chile and Argentina – to recreate the sophisticated flavours experienced abroad. The native Criolla grapes growing at home were fine for jug wine and brandy, but didn’t come up to the standards of the colour and structure of the red wines of Bordeaux.

In a bid to get closer to the wines they so admired, a handful of wealthy vignerons started an import programme in the 1840s and 1850s – importing not only French vines but winemakers, too.

‘The French paradigm completely changed the style of wines here,’ says leading Chilean historian Pablo Lacoste, ‘and more and more people demanded these styles as time went by.’

22 great South American Cabernet Sauvignons listed below

All in the timing

The love affair with Bordeaux has run hot ever since. Although there’s a medley of international influences in South American wines today, it can be argued that Bordeaux has been the single most significant, bringing in knowledge, investment and vine material key to the development of South America’s Cabernet Sauvignon.

The timing of Cabernet Sauvignon’s arrival from France in the mid-1800s was fortuitous. Not long after the vines had crossed the Atlantic and been planted in South American soil, phylloxera swept across Europe, the pest devastating the vineyards of France, including those in Bordeaux. South America was suddenly a treasure trove of phylloxera-free European vine cuttings.

As such, Chile and Argentina’s massal selections – vines propagated by taking cuttings from the best existing stock of ‘mother vines’ on an estate – of Cabernet Sauvignon are living relics, offering great genetic diversity.

These are some of the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards in the world. Centenarian vines still producing wines can be found in Colchagua, Curicó and Maule in Chile, with the oldest believed to be the ungrafted vines of Neyen in Apalta, planted in 1889.

Meanwhile, in Argentina, many old vines can be found around the regions of Mendoza, but the oldest are believed to be held by Colomé in Salta in northern Argentina – at 2,300m, a field blend of ungrafted vines including Cabernet Sauvignon mixed with Malbec and other Bordeaux varieties, planted circa 1856.

Shaking off the past

Winemaking evolved with a Bordeaux accent, and Bordeaux blends emerged as ‘icon’ wines in the 1980s and ’90s, such as (Santa Rita) Casa Real, (Montes) Alpha M, (Errazuriz) Don Maximiliano, (Concha y Toro) Don Melchor and Almaviva from Chile, and Nicolás Catena Zapata and Cheval des Andes in Argentina. Wine styles also fluctuated with international tastes – South American Cabernets weren’t immune to the 2000s trend towards riper, heavily oaked wines.

Now, South American producers favour a more terroir-driven, local approach. In the vineyards, the hydric stress (aiming to reduce berry size and yields, to increase intensity of flavours) and major leaf plucking (to expose bunches to more sunlight and air) promoted by Bordeaux consultants in the 1990s are going out of vogue.

These techniques may have reaped benefits back in the rainier climate of France, but in the sunny, dry climates of Chile and Argentina, they can leave grapes raisinated and overripe.

Chilean winemaker Francisco Baettig, a key figure in developing the profile of luxury Chilean Cabernet, says: ‘The challenge now is preserving acidity and freshness, the juiciness of the fruit and elegance, with moderate alcohol. We’ve changed our viticulture to reflect that – we don’t stress the vines any more, and we harvest earlier.’

Winemakers are eschewing overt ripeness and concentration and aiming for balanced wines, with higher, more refreshing acidity, preferring a lighter hand in the cellar and less oak influence. This also means the Cabernet Sauvignon map has expanded to include cooler growing regions that produce fresher styles.

Coming of age

‘When I started as a winemaker, we were told that the Uco Valley was too cool for great Cabernet Sauvignon,’ says Juan Pablo Michelini, whose Altar Uco Cabernet eschews oak ageing in favour of concrete. ‘But we have had a revolution in our winemaking, and now I understand that we can make great Uco Cabernet when we seek elegance. It can be really interesting – not overly exuberant, nor austere; textural but not heavy.’

Contemporary styles of top South American Cabernet are focused and fresh, and although there are still many French hands and purse strings attached to the variety, this shows there’s an ever-increasing commitment to making wines that reflect South America’s own terroirs and winemaking journey. Cabernet Sauvignon from South America has finally come of age.

Top South American Cabernet terroirs

Cabernet Sauvignon is planted in each of South America’s wine countries, from the best known to Ecuador and Paraguay. But it’s not always a good fit. Although there are some promising regions in Uruguay and Brazil (in particular Rivera in the former and Campanha in the latter), the rainy and/or humid climates result in variable vintages.

Cabernet hasn’t made much of a dent in terms of quality wines in Peru or Bolivia, either. It’s in Chile and Argentina that Cabernet Sauvignon has thrived.

Chile

In Chile, Cabernet is king. Here it’s the most-planted variety – with some 37,000ha in the ground, according to SAG, the country’s agriculture and livestock service – and it produces superb wines. Cabernet Sauvignon put Chile on the fine-wine map.

At the heart of this great rise is the multitude of suitable Cabernet terroirs in the centre of the country. Just south of Santiago, Maipo has always been the undisputed heartland of Cabernet Sauvignon – largely influenced by its proximity to the wealth of the capital and within sight of many Bordeaux-obsessed vignerons.

The topography and climate of Maipo lend themselves to top-quality Cabernet Sauvignon. The region’s vineyards follow the meandering paths of rivers that have brought stones and silt down from the Andes mountains, leaving terraces of river gravel similar to those seen in Bordeaux. With excellent drainage and access to water, these gravelly soils are ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon, which thrives during the sunny, dry summers.

In the central part of Maipo, including the Isla de Maipo region, temperatures are more moderate and often cooler on average than in the rest of Maipo, offering gentle red-fruit expressions and softer tannins. The most celebrated terroirs are higher into the Andes foothills, where elevation increases the diurnal range – cooler nights and warmer days – leading to wines of structure and concentration, but also freshness.

Puente Alto, a sub-region of Alto (Upper) Maipo, is considered by many to be the holy grail of Chilean Cabernet terroirs. The three main properties there are arguably the country’s most famous: Viñedo Chadwick, Don Melchor and Almaviva.

However, there are also equally exciting and ageworthy expressions coming from the nearby sub-region of Pirque, as well as Buin, Peñalolén and the Santiago suburb of Macul. A hint of spearmint meddled with juicy cassis and an edgy minerality is typical of Cabernet from Alto Maipo.

There is also Cabernet Sauvignon aplenty to the north in Aconcagua and further south in Cachapoal and Colchagua. The warmer overall temperatures in the central Entre Cordilleras regions (between the eastern coastal mountains and the Andes to the west) make for riper, denser wines, which can often benefit from blending.

There are some notable varietal wines from the Andes regions, too, especially Colchagua’s Los Lingues. Here the higher altitude keeps the wines linear and refreshing, while retaining that trademark core of dense black fruit.

Even further south, Curicó and Maule are often overlooked, but there are some exceptional vines, from the ungrafted 122-year-old vineyard of Miguel Torres to Baettig’s Cabernet, grafted onto 100-year-old País vines half a century ago. The best wines here are nuanced and seductive.

Argentina

Over the Andes in Argentina, Cabernet Sauvignon became more popular in the 1990s but didn’t take off as Malbec did. There do, however, remain several Cabernet strongholds – the most notable being Luján de Cuyo in Mendoza. The Luján de Cuyo districts of Agrelo, Perdriel and Las Compuertas in particular are known for their rich, structured Cabernet wines.

An increasing number of premium Cabernet Sauvignons are coming out of the higher-elevation Uco Valley. Here, a fresher, spicier style is emerging, particularly from Gualtallary, at the valley’s northern end. The Cabernets that really trump the spice game though are those of Salta, in far northern Argentina, at even higher elevation.

These are the most peppery of all, as well as being heady with ripe fruit.

Benchmark Cab: the names to know and wines to seek out

Chile

Baettig

With his enviable flair for elegant Cabernet, Francisco Baettig has been reviving the overlooked region of Maule with a beautiful duo of Cabernet Sauvignons from his eponymous label. Grafted onto centenarian own-rooted vines of País, which provide wisdom and depth – as does this highly talented winemaker.

Carmen

Founded in 1850, Carmen is one of Chile’s oldest wineries and Cabernet has always been a strength. In recent vintages, Carmen Gold has been a star performer of Maipo, with a focus on fresher, floral expressions.

Concha y Toro, Don Melchor

Now celebrating its 35th vintage, Don Melchor is a well-established icon of Chile. For this wine, winemaker Enrique Tirado selects the cream of the Cabernet crop from Concha y Toro’s 12ha vineyard in Puente Alto. Terrunyo, a benchmark everyday Cabernet, comes from vineyards in nearby Pirque.

Cono Sur

Cono Sur is based in Colchagua, but Silencio, one of the top wines in the portfolio, comes from prime plots a little further north in Maipo Andes. The producer’s second label, 20 Barrels, includes a Cabernet Saivignon and is more widely available, particularly in the US, offering a more accessible glimpse into Cono Sur’s rich collection of Cabernet wines.

De Martino

From vineyards in the heart of Isla de Maipo, De Martino’s Cabernet Sauvignon has evolved from the riper style of the 2000s into a stripped-back, classy and understated style. Cuvée is the new icon, while La Cancha remains a classic.

Miguel Torres Chile, Manso de Velasco

One of the most prized vineyards that Spanish winemaking pioneer Miguel Torres discovered when establishing his Chilean outpost from 1979 (the vineyard was purchased in 1984). Winemaker Eduardo Jordán has now divided the ungrafted vineyard planted in 1902 in Curicó into terroir blocks – resulting in a top wine of greater finesse and precision.

San Pedro, Cabo de Hornos

One of the top wines of Viña San Pedro, Cabo de Hornos first came onto the premium scene in 1994. Gabriel Mustakis has been winemaker since 2018 and the most recent vintages are the most exciting, showing brightness and balance.

Santa Rita, Casa Real

Casa Real was one of the early ‘icon’ wines of Chile and has been one of the most admired since its first vintage in 1989. The majority of the fruit comes from old vines planted in the 1970s in Santa Rita’s Alto Jahuel vineyard.

Undurraga

Winemaker Rafael Urrejola makes wines all over Chile and has a special affinity with Cabernet Sauvignon. Top wine Altazor comes from 35-year-old vines in Pirque and has become increasingly refined over time. Terroir Hunter (TH) is one of the best-value Cabernets in Chile.

Viña Quebrada de Macul

A cult Cabernet Sauvignon producer in Chile, this boutique winery is one of the better-kept secrets of Macul. The hillside vineyard was planted in 1970 and French winemaker Jean Pascal Lacaze makes classic, ageworthy wines, including the flagship Domus Aurea and seductive second label Stella Aurea.

Viñedo Chadwick

When Eduardo Chadwick convinced his father to plant over his treasured polo field with vines in 1992, it was a risky move. But the gamble paid off, as this 15ha vineyard now produces one of Chile’s best, increasingly elegant and refined Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

Argentina

Altar Uco

Juan Pablo Michelini has spent most of his winemaking life exploring the Uco Valley and Gualtallary. Altar Uco, launched in 2014 with Daniel Kokogian, is his passion project – these are understated yet vibrant wines, with evident mountain freshness.

Bemberg

This is the crème de la crème of the varied vineyard estates of the Bemberg family, owners of Argentina’s largest wine producer Grupo Peñaflor. Winemaker Daniel Pi has selected the best terroirs for each variety; the Cabernet from Cafayate embraces the spicy typicity of the north.

Casarena

Specialising in single-vineyard expressions from Luján de Cuyo, Casarena is refreshing in its vision. The Owen vineyard is an old-vine treasure – 20ha of parral-trained (on pergolas) Cabernet Sauvignon that’s more than 90 years old.

Susana Balbo Wines

Known as the Queen of Torrontés, Susana Balbo is also a long-time disciple of Cabernet Sauvignon. Her winery remains in Luján de Cuyo, but the wines have gradually transitioned to the Uco Valley and to spicier, more nimble, livelier reds.

Viña Cobos

One of Argentina’s first flying winemakers, Paul Hobbs has long been a believer in Argentinian Cabernet Sauvignon; although his successes with Malbec and Chardonnay have perhaps obscured that. Nevertheless, he remains one of the top producers in Agrelo, making ageworthy wines.

And the wines… Amanda Barnes reviews 22 benchmark South American Cabernets:

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