Getting to know white Hermitage
Hugely characterful wines that never fail to seduce...
Even to the untrained eye, there are some vineyard sites that stop you in your tracks: the hill of Hermitage is one.
But to the dedicated wine lover, it’s even more compelling. This slope could only have, and only has, one purpose: to make wine that’s been legendary for centuries. White Hermitage is the very embodiment of the words ‘grand cru’. It’s a unique and hugely characterful wine that never fails to seduce.Hermitage is better known today for its reds, but at one time its white wines were equally famous – and rightly so.There are hardly any appellations in France outside Burgundy that can make red and white wine to the same exceptional standard. Today, 30% of production is white, most of which is dry, but a tiny proportion is sweet vin de paille.
Scroll down to see Matt’s 28 white Hermitage tasting notes
Location
The best view of the hill is from the Château de Tournon, on the other side of the Rhône river. I was there on 17 June for ‘Legendary (H)Ermitage’, a full day’s celebration of Hermitage featuring almost every producer. It was an unforgettable event featuring some heart-stopping treats that pulled in guests from around the world.
The hill itself, on the east bank of the Rhône, rises up above a kink in the river as it briefly flows west to east. It’s a kneaded, 136ha south-facing slope that catches the sun and ducks the northerly Mistral. It would be hard to design a better place to make wine.
According to Michel Chapoutier, Hermitage is ‘the perfect illustration that the most interesting vineyards are in geological chaos…We have the four ages of soil: primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary.’
The westerly quarter once belonged to the Ardèche granite massif on the other side of the river. It was gradually shorn off by the river, then over time and glacial action, a long, eastern limestone flank took shape, joined by loess on top and gravely clay at the bottom.
Red and white grapes are grown all over but many of the best whites are from the eastern flank, such as lieux-dits Les Rocoules and Les Beaumes. Though the 1990s saw the rise of single-vineyard wines, it’s a phenomenon that’s more connected with its reds.
Winemaking & style
Producers can use Marsanne, Roussanne or a blend of both, though in practice Marsanne is much more common by around 7:1.
Winemaking is traditional for the Rhône. Much is done by hand, and organic viticulture is relatively common despite the steep slopes. Malolactic fermentation is almost always carried out and maturing in oak barrels is common – sometimes too common. Not much changes here, but gradually the degree of oak influence is being dialled down, which is a welcome development.
The style of white Hermitage is generous and opulent. It’s dry but far from lean, with plenty of body. Acidity is low, but these are by no means unbalanced wines, just flowing and regal.
In terms of flavour, you can expect almond nougat, quince, hazelnut, apricot, pear, peach and ginger. Then, as they age, barley sugar, honey and baking spices come to the fore.
White Hermitage works brilliantly with food, and in fact needs food to show its best. It’s a very versatile tool for sommeliers, working well with rich or lightly spiced dishes, and is a great dry option to pair with foie gras.
Most of these wines drink well from release and continue to gain interest for 10 to 20 years. The best can last for decades.
Tasting white Hermitage:
Leading producers of white Hermitage:
Domaine JL Chave, M Chapoutier, Domaine Marc Sorrel
Under-the-radar options:
Domaine Betton, Domaine Fayolle Fils & Fille, Domaine des Martinelles.
Reliable, good value white Hermitage cuvées:
Cave de Tain, Au Coeur des Siècles, Hermitage Blanc
M Chapoutier, Chante Alouette, Hermitage Blanc
Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Le Chevalier de Sterimberg, Hermitage Blanc
Ferraton Père & Fils, Les Miaux, Hermitage Blanc
Domaine du Colombier, Hermitage Blanc
White Hermitage key facts:
AOC Hermitage created in 1937
30% of Hermitage production is white wine
Permitted varieties Marsanne and/or Roussanne
Climate Warm continental; very sunny with northerly wind
Annual production 1,554 hectolitres (2018)
Average yield 38hl/ha
Top recent vintages 2004, 2010, 2014
You may also like:
Expert’s Choice: White Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Best Rhône 2017 wines: The top scorers
Condrieu ageing- Ask Decanter
Domaine JL Chave, Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 1998
An unforgettable and totally brilliant wine that could come from no other terroir – and no other producer. The aromas of citrus oils and ripe...
1998
Domaine JL ChaveHermitage
Domaine JL Chave, Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2016
There was just 20-30% of a normal crop in 2016 due to hail, but thankfully the 2016 Chave Blanc is full, rich and flowing. Notes of...
2016
Domaine JL ChaveHermitage
M Chapoutier, Vin de Paille, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2010
Successive passes through the vineyard select only the best grapes, with a minimum of 360g/l of residual sugar, which are then dried on straw mats...
2010
M ChapoutierHermitage
M Chapoutier, De L'Orée, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2001
From a 3.5ha plot of ancient glacial alluvial deposits of lieu-dit Les Murets, this is an outrageous and addictive style. Toasted almond and marzipan notes are...
2001
M ChapoutierHermitage
Domaine JL Chave, Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2006
This has a beautiful nose of barley sugar, marzipan and sweet decaying leaf mulch. It has rich, almost sweet quince fruit on the palate, honeyed...
2006
Domaine JL ChaveHermitage
Domaine Marc Sorrel, Les Rocoules, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2000
The clay-limestone lieu-dit of Les Rocoules typically gives wines with power but vivacity. This is perhaps not quite as elegant and balanced as some white...
2000
Domaine Marc SorrelHermitage
Domaine JL Chave, Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 1999
A pretty rich year according to Jean-Louis, the 1999 displays some strong aldehydic characters along with barley sugar, nutmeg and brown butter. It's very full-bodied...
1999
Domaine JL ChaveHermitage
Paul Jaboulet Aîné, La Chapelle Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2010
A bold but measured white Hermitage with a long finish, powerful but without excess alcohol or richness, and although oaked, it's not over-oaked. This has...
2010
Paul Jaboulet AînéHermitage
E Guigal, Ex-Voto Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2010
From 50- to 90-year-old vines in lieux-dits Les Murets (90%) and L'Ermite (10%), this wine spent 30 months in new oak barriques. Built to impress...
2010
E GuigalHermitage
Cave de Tain, Au Coeur des Siècles, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2017
Sourced from an 80-year-old parcel from high on the hill, this wine is fermented in tank then aged for six months in 400l barrels. Still...
2017
Cave de TainHermitage
Cave de Tain, Vin de Paille, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 1989
Marsanne grapes are dried in boxes for two months before pressing and fermenting in barriques. The result is remarkably powerful and kaleidoscopic, with notes of...
1989
Cave de TainHermitage
Fayolle Fils & Fille, Les Dionnières Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2017
A gentle, fresh and floral style of Hermitage Blanc, this is medium-bodied and relatively light on oak influence despite being fermented and aged in oak...
2017
Fayolle Fils & FilleHermitage
Domaine Betton, Arpège, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2016
This white Hermitage is from lieu-dit L'Homme, on sandy loess soils. It's vinified in recently used barriques. Already good to go, this is a really...
2016
Domaine BettonHermitage
Domaine des Martinelles, Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2016
From lieu-dit La Pierrelle, this wine is whole-bunch pressed, fermented and aged in demi-muid for 18 months. There's a fresh cream note to the nose...
2016
Domaine des MartinellesHermitage
Domaine Betton, Arpège, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2010
Christelle Betton makes some of the best red Crozes-Hermitage around, but also a little white Hermitage. This is from lieu-dit L'Homme, on sandy loess soils,...
2010
Domaine BettonHermitage
Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Vin de Paille, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2006
Several passes through the vineyard pick grapes at a minimum of 360g/l residual sugar, which are then dried for nearly two months before pressing. Fermentation...
2006
Paul Jaboulet AînéHermitage
Jean-Claude & Nicolas Fayolle, Les Dionnières Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2017
There's an unusually grassy edge to the citrussy fruit aromas here. In the mouth it's very full-bodied, with orange flower water, cedar and tobacco leaf...
2017
Jean-Claude & Nicolas FayolleHermitage
Domaine Laurent Habrard, Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2016
This starts well, with a perfumed floral note and expressive fruit, delicately handled. It's full and textural on the palate, with low acidity and high...
2016
Domaine Laurent HabrardHermitage
Ferraton Père & Fils, Les Miaux, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2016
From a blend of plots, the grapes undergo a 24-hour cold maceration before being fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured for up to 12 months,...
2016
Ferraton Père & FilsHermitage
Domaine Julien Pilon, Prisme, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2014
Julien Pilon has long specialised in (but no longer exclusively makes) Northern Rhône whites. His white Hermitage is 100% Marsanne from lieux-dits Rocoules, Beaume and...
2014
Domaine Julien PilonHermitage
Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet, Ermitage Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2016
Fermented and aged in oak barrels, this rare 100% Roussanne wine has a savoury, cedary nose. It's very full-bodied and broad but dry, with well...
2016
Domaine Philippe & Vincent JabouletHermitage
Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet, Ermitage Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2010
This rare 100% Roussanne is fermented and aged in oak barrels. There's a strong dairy element to the aromas, like raw cream. In the mouth...
2010
Domaine Philippe & Vincent JabouletHermitage
M Chapoutier, Le Méal Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2008
This 100% Marsanne comes from a 2ha plot of 50-year-old vines on alluvial deposits and large stones. 2008 was a fairly average vintage in the...
2008
M ChapoutierHermitage
Delas Frères, Domaine des Tourettes Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2017
A blend of three parcels, this wine is fermented in new, one- and two-year-old barrels before spending up to 12 months on the lees with...
2017
Delas FrèresHermitage
Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Le Chevalier de Sterimberg, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2016
Still with a little green hint to the rim, and a little oaky, this needs some more time to harmonise completely. There's a good sense...
2016
Paul Jaboulet AînéHermitage
Domaine Julien Pilon, Prisme, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2013
This 100% Marsanne is sourced from lieux-dits Rocoules, Beaume and Maison Blanche, vinified in 500l new oak barrels. The 2013 is already taking on a...
2013
Domaine Julien PilonHermitage
Domaine Julien Pilon, Prisme, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2015
This 100% Marsanne, from lieux-dits Rocoules, Beaume and Maison Blanche, is vinified in 500l new oak barrels. This is a little reticent on the nose,...
2015
Domaine Julien PilonHermitage
Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet, Ermitage Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2013
This 100% Roussanne is taking on some gold hints to the colour now. It has a lactic element to the pear fruit, with slightly unbalanced...
2013
Domaine Philippe & Vincent JabouletHermitage
