Place de Bordeaux: March 2022 releases

Now a fixed part of the annual fine wine sales calendar, March sees the release of several high-profile international wines, as well as releases from Bordeaux estates.

The 26 wines being released, with the exception of three tasted in-situ and one in London, were presented to select members of the press at a tasting organised by Joanne Rare Wines in Bordeaux.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the new international releases on the Place de Bordeaux in March 2022

Notable new entries

China – Ao Yun

The release of Ao Yun, Yunnan 2018 marks the first time a Chinese wine will be sold through the Place de Bordeaux and the first of LVMH’s non-Bordeaux wines to use the system.

The passion project began more than 20 years ago, when LVMH set about finding the best place to cultivate vines in China.

It was a task that took almost four years, before the group settled on the remote corner of northern Yunnan in the villages of Adong, Xidang, Sinong and Shuori at the foot of the sacred Meili mountain, the highest peak of the Himalayas in the region.

The estate’s name means ‘flying above the clouds’, and vineyards are planted on 700 steep terraces at altitudes ranging from 2,200 – 2,600 metres.

‘The target of having the wine on the Place was to help put Ao Yun into the category of the finest wines of the world, not only in terms of satisfying a curiosity, but to go into the cellars of fine wine collectors,’ says Jean-Quentin Prats, director of Joanne Rare Wines and son of Jean-Guillaume Prats, who initiated the project during his time as president of LVMH Estates & Wines.

The total production is around 30,000 bottles, of which 9,000 will be offered for sale outside of China by three négociants at a retail cost of roughly €300 per bottle. The 2018 vintage will be released on the 30 March.

‘The story, the rarity, history and sense of place all contribute to what makes you buy a wine and you have all that here,’ said Prats.

A longer, more in-depth article by Jane Anson, covering Ao Yun’s history and a vertical tasting of all wines produced, will be published in Decanter’s May issue which goes on sale at the beginning of April.

Italy

Piedmont

For the first time, four wines from Piedmont join the growing cohort of Tuscan wines on the Place.

Three limited production Barolo cru bottlings from Parusso will be sold in six-bottle cases comprising two bottles of each wine. Michele Chiarlo’s Barolo DOCG will also be offered, showcasing the different expressions of Nebbiolo and varying terroir aspects within the region.

The two family-run estates are markedly different. Parusso, nicknamed locally as ‘the one who breaks the rules’, focuses on innovative viticulture and vinification techniques, including leaving the grapes to rest for three days after harvest with their stems so as not to stress the grapes.

Michele Chiarlo is known for a more traditional approach, with wines produced only in the best years and from the best grapes of the Cerequio Cru.

The producers feel that ‘Barolo is having success on the export market but perhaps not so much in terms of brand recognition’, said Prats.

‘Piedmont is in the top two Italian regions for prestige so it was important for us to represent some of its wineries.

‘The process isn’t about destroying existing distribution channels, it’s about improving visibility as a whole, putting the wines on par not only with other iconic bottles from Italy but other fine wines of the world.’

Speaking about Piedmont and the Place, Giovanni Mazzei, export director of Marchesi Mazzei (whose wines Siepi and Concerto are distributed through the system) said, ‘There’s a real opportunity for Piedmont with the introduction of a classic appellation like Barolo to the Place system.

‘Tuscany has a different history and different culture, it’s traditionally been more fitting for the Place but we are all very curious and excited to see Barolo being represented.

‘A brand like Parusso will surely benefit. It has always been there but finally it has the window to be seen. It is a Barolo that’s really sophisticated but at the same time approachable, so everyone can appreciate it.’

Mazzei added, ‘There are some other Barolo estates that I think would be interesting to see, two brands won’t be enough – there are so many different styles within the appellation so if they choose well and don’t overlap there could be a greater representation of the appellation in the future.’

Tuscany

The first release of Castellare di Castellina’s icon single-parcel bottling I Sodi di S Niccolo 2018 also joins the Place this year.

‘We were looking for a traditional Sangiovese wine with history and authenticity,’ said Prats. ‘We’re looking for a quality, a story to tell and wines that are recognised as key to a region with the will to get international renown.’

Speaking about the Place in general for the Mazzei Tuscan wines, Mazzei said. ‘It’s been one of the best things that could have happened for Siepi. It was always there, we were distributed in over 70 countries, working with over 150 distributors but we needed an extra voice.

‘We were so enthusiastic about the quality but needed that voice to show where Siepi should sit – the Place embraced it and spoke very loudly about it.’

USA

Acaibo

March 16th will see the first release of Acaibo, the Sonoma wine owned by Bordeaux husband and wife winemaker team Claire and Gonzague Lurton.

Despite both owning and running classified estates – Pauillac fifth growth Château Haut Bages Libéral, Margaux third growth Château Ferrière (owned by Claire), and Margaux second growth Château Durfort-Vivens (Gonzague) – the couple decided to add an international winery to their already impressive collection of estates.

Their search began more than 20 years ago, with South Africa the initial destination of choice. However, a planned purchase was scuppered at the last minute and ended up diverting the couple to Sonoma on the recommendation of Gonzague’s father, who had spent many years exploring the vineyards of north and south America and always had a dream to work a winery in California.

In the summer of 2011, the couple visited California with their children searching for a suitable location. A return visit by Gonzague in January 2012 led to the discovery of Acaibo, a 10-hectare estate located one mile from another notable Sonoma property, Vérité.

‘Chalk Hill AVA is very interesting (between Russian River and Alexander Valley), it has a great climate to get Bordeaux varieties at the right ripeness,’ said Gonzague, during a mini-vertical tasting at the beginning of March.

They custom crushed for the first two years and in 2014 decided to move the entire family there for three years before installing a permanent team and returning to Bordeaux in 2017.

‘Our project is really to produce a wine from our terroir,’ said Gonzague. ‘It’s from the climate and soil of Chalk Hill. We are not producing a wine which is typically an ‘American style’. It’s a wine which is very singular, like we’re trying to do in Bordeaux. Many might say it’s an old world style but in fact we think it’s a new kind of American-terroir wine.’

The first vintage was 2012, released onto the market in 2014. The 2014 was the first made in proprietary winemaking facilities. The 2016 vintage is the first to be released via the Place system this month.

A deep-dive article on all three Bordeaux estates plus a mini-vertical of Acaibo will be published on Decanter Premium later this month. 

Promontory

This month sees the Promontory 2016 vintage released internationally, following its US release last year.

The property, which is becoming one of Napa Valley’s most talked about stars, was purchased by Bill Harlan in 2008 and its first vintage – 2009 – was released in 2015.

The 2016 is the fourth vintage to be sold via the Place.

France – ex-châteaux

Bordeaux

Today, Tuesday 15 March, Château Latour released its 2014 vintage, alongside its second wine, Le Forts de Latour 2016 and Pauillac de Latour 2017.

The releases follow year-on-year since the 2012 was launched in 2020 and became the first ‘new’ grand vin to leave the estate’s cellars in eight years.

Speaking about the wines, Château Latour’s technical director, Hélène Génin, said ‘2017 and 2014 are classical vintages but where ’17 has more plumpness and is more gourmande, ’14 has more austerity. 2016 on the other hand was more expressive and riper.’

Champagne

The third Philipponnat, Clos de Goisses vintage – 1994 – will also be offered via the Place this month following the release of the 1996 and 2012 last September.

Only 3,000 bottles of the top Champagne were produced in 1994 – a stark contrast to the usual 15,000-30,000 bottles – of which 2,000 were kept on their lees for disgorgement on-demand over the years.

This March release is a special disgorgement, with only four négociants receiving fewer than 100 bottles each.

March 2022 releases via the Place de Bordeaux

Argentina

La Violeta, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, 2013 – not yet tasted – Release date 24th March

Chile

Seña, Aconcagua Valley, 2009 – 96 points Release date 14th March

China

Ao Yun, Yunnan, 2018 – 96 points Release date 30th March

France

Château d’Yquem, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé Superieur, 2019 – 97 points

Château Latour, Pauillac de Latour, Bordeaux, 2017 – 92 points Release date 15th March

Château Latour, Les Forts de Latour, Pauillac, Bordeaux 2016 – 95 points Release date 15th March

Château Latour, Pauillac 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, 2014 – 96 points Release date 15th March

Philipponnat, Clos de Goisses, Champagne, 1994 – 97 points Release date 9th March

Italy

Piedmont

Parusso, Barolo (Mariondino), Piedmont 2018 – 92 points

Parusso, Barolo (Mosconi) Piedmont, 2018 – 94 points

Parusso, Barolo (Bussia), Piedmont, 2018 – 96 points

Michele Chiarlo Cerequio Barolo, Piedmont, 2018 – 96 points

Tuscany

Luce, Lucente, Toscana, 2019 – 92 points Release date 2nd March

Luce. Toscana, 2019 – 96 points Release date 2nd March

Luce, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, 2017 – 93 points Release date 2nd March

I Sodi, Toscana, 2018 96 points

Poggio Antico Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany, 2020 – 93 points Release date 8th March

Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, 2017 – 95 points Release date 8th March

Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Tuscany, 2016 – 98 points Release date 8th March

Ornellaia Le Volte Dell’Ornellaia, Toscana, 2020 – 93 points Release date 1st April

Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove Dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri, Tuscan, 2019 – 94 points Release date 1st April

Ornellaia Bolgheri (Superiore) / Tuscany, 2019 – 98 points Release date 1st April

Ornellaia, Poggio Alle Gazze Dell’Ornellaia, Toscana, 2020 – 93 points Release date 1st April

Ornellaia, Bianco, Toscana, 2019 – 97 points Release date 1st April

USA

Acaibo, Sonoma County (Chalk Hill, California, 2016 – 95 points

Promontory, Napa Valley, California, 2016 – 98 points Release date 2nd March

See tasting notes and scores for 24 new international releases on the Place de Bordeaux

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