Masseto vertical: 10 vintages back to 1988
Aldo Fiordelli visits the dynamic Bolgheri estate and tastes 10 vintages of its famous Merlot-based wine, including the second vintage, 1988, and the 'perfect' 2001.
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Masseto is one of the most expensive Italian wines and a true myth for collectors. Put simply it is the most important Merlot in Bolgheri, but this is not the whole picture. To understand Masseto’s pursuit of excellence it is necessary to follow its dynamic evolution.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for a Masseto vertical of 10 vintages
The first vintage was bottled in 1986 and was called ‘Merlot dell’Ornellaia’; the first commercial vintage followed in 1987 and the latest vintage, Masseto 2017, was released in September 2020.
Over the last 30 years this exceptional wine has never stopped evolving.
Masseto’s evolution
Since 2001, ageing in new French oak has been extended from 18 to 24 months following vintages with more concentration, and since 2004 careful attention has been paid to temperature control at the start of the fermentation process, as a result of the increasingly warm growing season.
In 2013, integral vinification (using sealed barriques) was introduced ‘to separately ferment micro-plots,’ according to the estate’s managing director, Axel Heinz.
In 2018, spontaneous fermentation in concrete was introduced, which takes place in the new winery officially opened in April 2019.
Today, Masseto’s vineyard sites have grown to 11.5 hectares, but the number of bottles produced annually remains at 30,000 – 34,000. This exclusive production is supported by Massetino, the second wine of the estate first released in 2017.
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Masseto has been able to thrive in Bolgheri despite showing a broad (if not the broadest) range of alcohol, increasing from 13% in the first vintages to 15% in more recent vintages. It’s now been 30 vintages without losing the extraordinary finesse of this wine and its perfect balance in concentration.
Read our Masseto producer profile
Masseto – a timeline
1984 Major part of Masseto vineyard planted on advice of André Tchelistcheff
1987 First vintage of Masseto
1989 Tschelistcheff retires from his role as estate consultant
1991 Michel Rolland hired as estate consultant
1995 Lower sector of Masseto vineyard planted
2001 The wine wins a 100-point score from The Wine Spectator
2005 Axel Heinz joins as winemaker
2006 Masseto begins to be sold through the Place de Bordeaux
2012 Vineyard converted entirely to organic farming
2016 Work begins on new dedicated winery
2019 The new winery opens
Masseto at a glance
Vineyard 7ha
Density 4,000 vines/ha
Elevation between 100m and 110m
First vintage 1987
Average production 30,000 bottles
Masseto vertical: 10 vintages tasted and rated
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Aldo Fiordelli is an Italian wine critic, journalist and wine writer. He has published four books about food, wine and art and is a regular Decanter contributor.
In Italy he is an editorial board member of L’Espresso restaurant and wine guide (one of Italy’s most prominent) since 2004. He also writes for Corriere della sera in Florence, as well as Civiltà del Bere (Italy’s oldest Italian wine magazine).
A certified sommelier since 2003, he is currently a 2nd stage student at the Institute of the Masters of Wine.
In 2017 he was named Chevalier de l’Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne.
Aldo joined DWWA for the first time as a judge in 2019.