Michaela Morris: My top 10 fine wines of 2021

Another year of zoom tastings and sampling wines in isolation doesn’t sound very inspiring on paper. Nevertheless, the capacity for wine to exhilarate transcends even the most prosaic circumstances. And, in all truth, I eventually braved the nightmare of travelling so that I could return to Italy.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Michaela Morris’ top 10 fine wines of 2021

My top picks for 2021 include a trio of Nebbiolo from northwestern Italy’s outstanding 2016 vintage. The Barolo couplet is a tip of the hat to two of the region’s leading producers – GB Burlotto and Bartolo Mascarello. Both wines have ties to Cannubi, a legendary site that lived up to its historic reputation in 2016.

The third Nebbiolo hails from Valtellina in Lombardy, a region overshadowed by its more famous brethren in Piedmont. Following an extensive tasting, I am more convinced than ever that this ‘mountain’ expression is equally compelling. Sandro Fay’s Carterìa Valtellina Superiore Riserva Valgella is a case in point.

Alongside Nebbiolo, I immersed myself in Barbera, traditionally regarded as Piedmont’s workhorse grape. Olim Bauda’s 2016 Nizza Riserva soared well beyond this typecast. The wine demonstrated the dignity of Barbera without losing its immense drinkability and food-friendly character or falling into the trap of over-ambitious oak ageing.

Brunello

Filing my annual Tuscan report in spring was a massive undertaking. It involved coordinating a shipment of 300 wines to Vancouver, only possible thanks to the help of Canadian importers. The reward was tasting one stunning 2016 Brunello after another, followed by the affable 2015 Riservas.

My top-scoring wine was Fuligni’s 2016, which evoked the essence of Montalcino with seamless elegance and powerful depth.

A smaller sampling than usual of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano was nonetheless particularly gratifying. At Tuscany’s anteprime tastings, this denomination has typically been hurriedly sandwiched between Chianti Classico and Brunello. I was pleased to be able to devote some time to this underrated DOCG. Boscarelli’s Costa Grande was a great success for the challenging 2017 vintage and a reminder that Vino Nobile merits attention.

Chianti

Finally, Chianti Classico’s new releases offered gems from all vintages and categories presented.

At the Gran Selezione level, Le Cinciole’s 2016 Aluigi was among the standouts. Previously labeled as a Riserva, this wine is emblematic of Gran Selezione’s new direction which sees greater focus on Sangiovese and will eventually allow labeling of Chianti Classico’s 11 UGA. I made a point of visiting Le Cinciole when I was able to travel to Chianti Classico later in the year and this wine was showing even better than when I first tried it.

While in the region, I enjoyed a bottle of Castell’in Villa’s 1982 Chianti Classico Riserva. Besides offering the perfect pairing for roasted pigeon, it was a tribute to the longevity of Chianti Classico and the tireless work of proprietress Princess Coralia Pignatelli della Leonessa.

France

Alain Graillot’s 2007 La Guiraude Crozes-Hermitage may seem like an interloper but thoroughly deserves a place on this list.

I found a lone bottle in my cellar and brought it to the first indoor dinner party in almost year. It showed brilliantly at this intimate meal with close friends who share my longstanding appreciation of Northern Rhône Syrah.

Canada & England

The long stretch in Canada finally afforded me the opportunity to judge our national wine awards competition with the team at Wine Align.

From across the country, the traditional-method sparkling wines shone, though the standout was from Ontario. It was my first time trying Queenston Mile’s wines and I was particularly taken by the richness, expression and raciness of their 2017 Brut Blanc De Noirs.

Apropos bubbles, I am celebrating the holidays with family in the UK. As I explore English sparkling wine, maybe I’ll find a contender for next year’s list.

Michaela’s top 10 fine wines of 2021: