New York State: 10 producers to know
New York State is finding its place on the wine map and has carved out an identity for its range of cool climate wines. Charles Curtis MW profiles 10 producers to look out for and puts their wines to the test.
Get our daily fine wine reviews, latest wine ratings, news and travel guides delivered straight to your inbox.
You are now subscribed
Your newsletter sign-up was successful
Channing Daughters
The winery was founded in 1982 by Walter Channing in Bridgehampton on the South Fork of Long Island. Grapes planted include Friulano, Muscat Ottonel, Malvasia, Ribolla Gialla, Blaufränkisch, Dornfelder, Syrah, Teroldego, Refosco and Lagrein. The winery produces a dizzying array of styles. Nearly 12ha of vines are spread over five sites in Long Island’s characteristic silty loam soil on sand and gravel.
Dr Konstantin Frank
Konstantin Frank (1899-1985) studied viticulture in Ukraine and managed Soviet wineries in the Republic of Georgia before emigrating to the US in
1951. His Riesling trials secured him the title of the ‘father of vinifera’ in New York state, and his son Willy pioneered traditional-method sparkling wine production here. Grandson Frank and great-granddaughter Meaghan continue the tradition of innovation and quality.
Element Winery
Master Sommelier Christopher Bates grew up in the Finger Lakes. Today he wears many hats: restaurateur, sommelier, winemaker and chef. After making wine in the Mosel and the Veneto, he returned to found a winery with his father. He started with Riesling, but by 2010 he’d focused on red wine and now makes some of the most convincing renditions of Cabernet Franc and Syrah around.
Forge Cellars
This is a collaboration between Louis Barruol of Château de Saint Cosme in Gigondas and wine-trade veteran Rick Rainey. They concentrate on dry Riesling and Pinot Noir from the east side of Seneca Lake. Founded in 2001, the winery purchased Bellows Vineyard in 2016, located on the steep and well-exposed slopes where grapes ripen superbly well in the afternoon sun.
See also: New York State: Regional profile
Hermann J Wiemer
Bernkastel native Hermann Wiemer realised his dream of making Riesling in the Finger Lakes in 1976 when he began to plant his 32ha site at Seneca Lake. There are now 55ha planted to 17 different grapes, although Riesling is 70% of the production. The vineyards are sustainably farmed and in biodynamic trials. All the estate fruit is hand-picked and sorted before fermentation on wild yeast.
Nathan K
Youthful talent Nathan Kendall (pictured above) makes the wines for his own label Nathan K, for Hickory Hollow, and with Pascaline Lepeltier MS for her project Chëpìka, where they make still wine and pét-nat from the organically grown hybrid grapes Catawba and Delaware, sourced from Keuka Lake. All of the wines are made with few, if any additions, and as much purity as possible.
Get our daily fine wine reviews, latest wine ratings, news and travel guides delivered straight to your inbox.
Paumanok Vineyards
Lebanese-born Charles Massoud and his German wife Ursula founded this estate in 1983. Today it includes 40ha under vine with 32ha in current production and new plantings (including Melon de Bourgogne) coming online soon. With their purchase of neighbouring property Palmer Vineyards, the Massoud family is one of the important names in Long Island wine.
Ravines
Danish-born Morten Hallgren grew up on a winery in Provence and completed wine school in Montpellier. Today he is making some of the most exquisite terroir-driven Riesling anywhere. He began as head winemaker at Dr Konstantin Frank , but purchased his own vineyards in 2001. Today, Ravines owns more than 50ha spread over several sites and purchases fruit from the renowned Argetsinger vineyard to produce some of its most-lauded bottlings.
Terrassen Cellars
This is the brainchild of noted sommelier Thomas Pastuszak from Manhattan’s NoMad restaurant. The winery is named for Austrian wines blended from sites too small to make a single-vineyard wine but which demonstrate the potential across a region. Pastuszak has a focused range, sourcing Blaufränkisch for rosé along with Gamay and Cabernet Franc. The wines are made in a savoury, fresh style, yet have enough juicy fruit to satisfy the hedonist.
Trestle 31
Nova Cadamatre MW was among the first viticulture graduates of New York’s Cornell University. She went on to become the head of winemaking for global giant Constellation Brands at its Canandaigua winery. Today, her day job is head winemaker for Robert Mondavi, but Trestle 31 is her personal project with husband Brian. They buy fruit for their production of Riesling and Chardonnay, but in 2015 they purchased land for a vineyard on Seneca Lake. A producer to watch.
Wines from top New York State producers
Channing Daughters, Ramato, Long Island, New York State, USA, 2019

A distinctive style of Pinot Grigio, this wine is fermented on the skins for 15 days with native yeasts before maturation in old French and...
2019
New York StateUSA
Channing DaughtersLong Island
Dr Konstantin Frank, Grüner Veltliner, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2019

Dr Frank’s Grüner is produced with grapes grown on the southeast shores of Seneca Lake in the region known as the Banana Belt for the...
2019
New York StateUSA
Dr Konstantin FrankFinger Lakes
Element, Syrah, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2015

This Syrah is surprisingly robust and aromatically very complex. The attack features a pronounced white pepper aroma, but there is also plenty of sweet blackberry...
2015
New York StateUSA
ElementFinger Lakes
Forge Cellars, Breakneck Creek Vineyard Dry Riesling, Seneca Lake, New York State, USA, 2019

Delicate and erring on the side of finesse, this Riesling from Breakneck Creek Vineyard has a lilting charm with its bright citrus peel, passion fruit...
2019
New York StateUSA
Forge CellarsSeneca Lake
Hermann J. Wiemer, Magdalena Vineyard Riesling, Seneca Lake, New York State, USA, 2014

Magdalena is a vineyard located on the east-facing slopes of Lake Seneca that ripens fruit very well, typically producing more opulent styles of Riesling. This...
2014
New York StateUSA
Hermann J. WiemerSeneca Lake
Nathan K, Riesling, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2018

Kendall's Riesling is produced from grapes grown on a variety of Seneca Lake sites, including some old-vine material. After pressing, the wine was fermented in...
2018
New York StateUSA
Nathan KFinger Lakes
Paumanok Vineyards, Tuthills Lane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, North Fork of Long Island, New York State, USA, 2014

The Tuthills Lane Cabernet ranks among the top examples of the variety in New York state, with its lovely ripe blackcurrant fruit aroma and no...
2014
New York StateUSA
Paumanok VineyardsNorth Fork of Long Island
Ravines, Cerise, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2017

<p>Cerise is refreshing and ripe, with forward, lush aromas and flavours of cherry and bright plum with just a suggestion of mint as it opens....
2017
New York StateUSA
RavinesFinger Lakes
Terrassen, Blaufränkisch Rosé, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2019

90
Star sommelier Thomas Pastuszak of Manhattan’s NoMad restaurant sources the Blaufränkisch for his rosé from Seneca Lake's Nutt Road Vineyard. The site has a southeast exposure receiving gentle morning light. The grapes are crushed and macerated for several hours before cool fermentation in stainless-steel tanks to retain bright, fresh aromas that parse the red berry fruit of the Austrian original in a New World context. The texture is supple and brightened by refreshing acidity that leads to a lingering, elegantly-balanced finish.
2019
New York StateUSA
TerrassenFinger Lakes
Trestle 31, Chardonnay, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA, 2018

For her masterful Finger Lakes Chardonnay, Nova Cadamatre used fruit from the Nutt Road Vineyard on the northwest side of Seneca Lake. The fruit is...
2018
New York StateUSA
Trestle 31Finger Lakes