Piedmont Dolcetto: Panel tasting results
These early-drinking Piedmont reds place the focus on fruit, with little or no oak used, yet they can be great for food-matching, too. More than a third of the wines tasted here scored 90pts or higher.
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Susan Hulme MW, Vincenzo Arnese and Sara Bachiorri tasted 95 wines with 1 Outstanding and 35 Highly recommended.
Piedmont Dolcetto: Panel tasting scores
95 wines tasted
Exceptional 0
Outstanding 1
Highly recommended 35
Recommended 57
Commended 2
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Fair 0
Poor 0
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their currently available vintages of Piedmont Dolcetto red wines, with no price restrictions, from DOCs Dolcetto d’Alba, Dolcetto d’Asti, Dolcetto d’Acqui, Dolcetto di Ovada, or DOCGs Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba/Diano d’Alba, Dolcetto di Ovada Superiore or Dogliani
Dolcetto is the third-most important red grape variety in Piedmont, after Nebbiolo and Barbera. Although most closely associated with Piedmont, it is also grown in Lombardy, Liguria and the island of Sardinia, though often under other names (Ormeasco, Nibiò etc). It’s an early-ripening variety – two to three weeks before Nebbiolo – and produces deeply coloured, dry red wines with plenty of gentle tannins and lowish acidity, which emphasise the sweetness of fruit and perhaps explains the meaning of its name: ‘little sweet one’.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Dolcetto panel tasting
Dolcetto wines are well suited to modern tastes: typically they are unoaked, medium- bodied, soft, round and fruity, with flavours and aromas of blackberry, black cherry and black pepper or spice notes. This drinkability makes Dolcetto a much-loved variety among the Piemontesi, whereas the Nebbiolo wines of Barolo and Barbaresco are considered more serious and demanding with much higher levels of tannins and acidity.
In Piedmont, the DOCGs where Dolcetto is the sole or principal variety include Dolcetto Diano d’Alba, Dolcetto Diano d’Alba Superiore, Dolcetto di Ovada Superiore, Dogliani and Dogliani Superiore, along with the DOCs Dolcetto d’Alba – which usually produces the most wine – Dolcetto d’Alba Superiore, Dolcetto di Ovada, Dolcetto d’Asti, Dolcetto d’Acqui and Langhe Dolcetto. All of these denominations, with the exception of the small-production Dolcetto d’Asti, were represented in this panel tasting, and all 95 wines were 100% Dolcetto.
Dogliani is one of the most historically significant areas for Dolcetto; indeed, some people claim that the variety originated from the hills in this area, and it was promoted to a DOCG in 2005. The judges were therefore expecting great things from the Dogliani wines in this panel tasting, but while the Dogliani wines did quite well, the Dogliani Superiore wines tasted were disappointing: three of the five entered scored 86 points or below; the wines either already looked too evolved at three or four years old, or there was too much oak for the level of fruit. In fact, the panel typically rewarded wines that were unoaked, or where the oak was very subtle. Sara Bachiorri commented that she ‘loved the young Dolcetto that didn’t try to be something else; naked, pure, crunchy and honest’. Vincenzo Arnese added that Dolcetto ‘is the kind of wine that to perform well doesn’t need. . . oak and can express typicity very well’.
Overall, there were few poor wines. ‘It was a very consistent tasting with good base quality of wines,’ noted Arnese. Almost all the wines tasted – 93 out of 95 – achieved a ‘Bronze medal’ level (86-89pts, Recommended) or higher, with 35 achieving the equivalent of a ‘Silver’ (90-94pts, Highly recommended) and one ‘Gold’. Indeed, 26 of the 57 Recommended wines scored 89pts, which is on the verge of being a Highly recommended/Silver.
See all the Dolcetto wines from the panel tasting
Bachiorri noted after the tasting that ‘Dolcetto is certainly an underrated grape variety that can give great pleasure and joy.’ Dolcetto is without doubt very well suited to today’s taste for lively, fresh wines. Most are best drunk young, either on their own or with food. This tasting confirmed that Dolcetto can offer plenty of enjoyment and value for money, if you choose wisely.
Dolcetto panel tasting scores
The judges
Susan Hulme MW is a wine writer, editor, educator and presenter specialising in Italy. She runs her own wine training and consultancy company Vintuition and travels regularly to wine regions around Italy. Now focusing more on her writing, she is Italian editor for The Wine Independent.
Vincenzo Arnese is director of wine at Raffles London at the OWO. Born in Naples, he worked at top hotels in Italy, Switzerland and Australia, and later at Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester. A DWWA judge, in 2022 he won the coveted title of Taittinger UK Sommelier of the Year.
Sara Bachiorri is in the buying team at merchant WoodWinters. A DWWA judge, she was formerly head sommelier at The Glasshouse in Kew then Chez Bruce in London, followed by a stint at Italian specialist merchant FortyFive10°.
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Susan Hulme MW runs Vintuition, her own wine education and consultancy company, based in Windsor, which provides wine-related training and courses for both the trade and members of the public. A major part of her work is running in-house training and WSET exams for sales executives at some of the leading on-trade and retail wine companies. Aside from judging Decanter World Wine Awards, she also is a regular critic on Decanter’s panel tastings and judges for the International Wine Competition. She is a member of the Circle of Wine Writers, a former chairman of the Association of Wine Educators (AWE) and the current editor of the AWE newsletter. Since 2007 she has been on the Institute of Masters of Wine events committee. She became a Master of Wine in 2005, winning the Madame Bollinger tasting medal for outstanding performance in the tasting exam.