Priorat wine: Panel tasting results
The presence of Cariñena in all three top-rated wines reflects the focus by Priorat’s leading names on native varieties. See the top scoring wines from our Priorat panel tasting.
Priorat seems to have come a long way since our last tasting in March 2011. Our judges’ perceptions then of high-alcohol, over-oaked and concentrated wines have been replaced, thanks to an exciting new style. ‘Priorat has moved to a new stage and there is real excitement about the future,’ enthused Sarah Jane Evans MW. ‘My real discovery this year has been Cariñena.’ This is clearly reflected in the result, with the top wines predominantly made from Cariñena (Carignan).
Evans continued: ‘Producers seem to have turned the corner in going back and rediscovering what they do best, which is their own local varieties. This is quite a recent change.’ Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW explained: ‘In 1972, the ministry said Priorat had the potential to make top Cabernet Sauvignon. In the 1980s, five producers established themselves in the region, planting a lot of Cabernet and Merlot, which were popular at the time. Alvaro Palacios has now abandoned Cabernet Sauvignon, but until 2014 there were still a lot of both varieties.’
Top scoring Priorat wines:
Evans also confessed to expecting an overdose of oak and alcohol, prior to the tasting: ‘People say that Priorat is a new region and that all they do there is make very concentrated wines with lots of oak; that was true in the past, but no longer. Yes, they have a lot of alcohol but on the other hand, they are really nicely balanced. The best thing about Cariñena is that it’s fresh!’ Pierre Mansour echoed her comment:
‘Alcohol is part of the Priorat style, but in general it was in balance. There were examples where the alcohol was above 16%, but the richness and generosity of fruit is so intense that it supports the alcohol, and the acidity too, and it works as a part of their original flavour and style.’
Costers del Priorat, Clos Cypres, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2013
95
Winemaker José Mas Barberà joined Costers del Priorat (founded 2002) in 2007. He was drawn to Priorat as a region where he could express the soil in the wine. Clos Cypres, 100% Cariñena from a vineyard in Bellmunt planted in 1939, is fermented in 300-litre amphorae and 500-litre old oak, before ageing in barrique. Mas is searching for freshness ‘I believe in acidity, so I am the first to pick in my village’; and for subtlety ‘I ferment with stems, but I handle the wine like an infusion’. Look out for Clos Cypres Cariñena from its vineyard in Torroja, coming next year. Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW: Delicate in nose, peculiar, with garrigue tones and floral hints. Balanced and open palate. Long, suave finish. Sarah Jane Evans MW: Glorious blueberry aroma with a wild Cariñena typicity. Finishes with fine grip of tannin; very balanced with a dark, savoury undertone. Pierre Mansour: Deep bright colour, clean, pure nose, wonderful cherry notes with a wild herby aroma, savoury too; youthful. It has a tangy palate, intense cherry fruit, well-controlled and totally individual.
2013
Costers del PrioratPriorat
Joan Simó, Les Eres Vinyes Velles, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2010
95
<p>Owner Gerard Batllevel Simó’s family sold its grapes to the local co-op. In 1999 he decided it was time to restore the basement of the family home in the centre of Porrera and turn it into a winery. Working with family and friends, the first Les Eres was made that year, in five barrels bought from Priorat’s founding father René Barbier. It was an instant success. The wine is a blend of 90+ year-old Cariñena with Garnacha from Bellmunt, and some of the first Cabernet Sauvignon planted in Priorat (in El Molar in 1978).</p> <p> </p> <p><em><strong>Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW </strong></em><br /> Quite oaky, with notes of savia. Dense, rich, expressive, very original and long on the palate.</p> <p> </p> <p><em><strong>Sarah Jane Evans MW </strong></em><br /> Lovely garrigue nose, with some florality too. This is a silky, supple wine with a lively freshness. At its right time now, with very fine purity of fruit. Very well integrated, very well handled.</p> <p> </p> <p><em><strong>Pierre Mansour </strong></em><br /> Perfumed, highly scented nose, and wonderful herby Mediterranean flavours. This has complexity, it’s round and rich, yet elegant, complete, long and superb. Outstanding!</p>
2010
Joan SimóPriorat
Cal Batllet, Gratallops 5 Partides, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2010
95
<p>Cal Batllet (founded 2000) works out of the old family cellar in Gratallops, drawing on terraced vineyards up to 40 years old, and slopes up to 100 years. Says Marc Ripoll Sans ‘Cariñena is our star variety, because these oldest vines are on the steepest slopes in the warmest orientations.’ He is a staunch defender of the ‘Vi de Vila’ village classification and Cal Batllet is currently the only winery to use ‘Vi de Vila’ for all its wines. The 5 Partides comes from five parcels that are farmed organically, and is aged for 16 months in new French oak. Just 2,800 bottles of the 2010 vintage were produced.</p> <p> </p> <p><em><strong>Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW </strong></em><br /> Serious, restrained, deep, complex aromas. Linear, austere, meaty, idiosyncratic, original and long. A distinctive wine.</p> <p> </p> <p><em><strong>Sarah Jane Evans MW </strong></em><br /> Dense, powerful nose, finely smoky. Palate is equally dense and ripe. Powerfully bold wine, plump expression of Cariñena; grainy tannins. Exceptionally long. Just at its right point.</p> <p> </p> <p><em><strong>Pierre Mansour </strong></em><br /> Wonderful nose, fine, floral, crisp palate, primary and youthful, a classic example of fine old-vine Priorat Cariñena. Plump and generous, this promises to age well. People will love it.</p>
2010
Cal BatlletPriorat
Família Nin-Ortiz, Nit, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2012
94
Glorious smoky nose. Bright, juicy with an earthy, tarry background. Lively acidity and finely grained tannins. Dense yet fresh. Real character and charm.
2012
Família Nin-OrtizPriorat
Mas d’en Gil, Clos Fontà, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2010
93
Pure cassis nose with a delicate floral lift. Impressive on the palate, this is vivid and powerful with great depth of fruit and an underlying tarry, liquorice tone, kept fresh by a lively jab of acidity. Long, dense finish. Will keep.
2010
Mas d’en GilPriorat
Blai Ferré Just, Desnivell, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2010
91
Fragrant nose with leathery undertones, followed by a gorgeously fleshy palate that boasts a syrupy, spicy richness which lingers through the finish. Concentrated, and showing impressive depth, this is one to keep.
2010
Blai Ferré JustPriorat
Clos del Portal, Tros de Clos, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2012
91
Toasty new oak lends a smoky quality to the floral notes, underpinned by a brisk herbal edge. Vanilla fruit and velvety tannins. Dense, silky with a long, complex finish. A polished, modern style.
2012
Clos del PortalPriorat
Ferrer Bobet, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2013
91
Whistle-clean, youthful fruit on the nose with a hint of new oak and some seductive floral overtones. Rich, ripe and rounded in the mouth. Old-vine fruit is well-integrated with a dash of spice.
2013
Ferrer BobetPriorat
