Roussillon red wines: panel tasting results
Thanks to big changes since our last panel tasting in 2015, our judges were impressed by the defined freshness and pared-back oak of these wines.
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Rosemary George MW, Andy Howard MW and Frederic Marti tasted 122 wines, with two Outstanding and 47 Highly Recommended.
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release dry red wines from AP and IGP regions around Roussillon, as well as Vin de France if from grapes exclusively within Roussillon.
Roussilon reds panel tasting scores
122 wines tasted
Exceptional 0
Outstanding 2
Highly recommended 47
Recommended 70
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Commended 3
Fair 0
Poor 0
Faulty 0
Six years have passed since Decanter’s last panel tasting of red wines of the Roussillon, in the Catalan southwest of France, and the change was palpable.
Fellow judge Andy Howard MW summed up recent developments in the region: ‘I was expecting more hefty, powerful wines and was pleasantly surprised by the restraint and elegance’. Frederic Marti agreed, commenting on the evident freshness, lift and diversity.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring Roussillon red wines
The production of table wine, locally called vin sec, as opposed to vin doux naturel (VDN) fortified, is a relatively recent development in the Roussillon.
In their heyday in the mid-19th century, 70 million bottles of VDN were sold per year, compared with just 3 million today.
When Daniel Laffite began making wine at Domaine des Soulanes in Maury in the 1990s, 90% of production was VDN. Today that figure is reversed, with vins secs accounting for 90% of production. The vins secs have taken over, with some estates making no VDN at all.
However, as Mickaël Sire of Domaine des Schistes has observed, this means that the Roussillon has only had about 20 years’ experience of élevage for its unfortified wines. This has been an enormous and, as this tasting illustrated, very successful learning curve. Initially, Bordeaux barriques were favoured, whereas these days the trend is towards demi-muids or even larger foudres, often with a preference for older wood. You will also find concrete eggs and vats.
Victor Gardiés of Domaine Gardiés is not alone in looking for balance and freshness rather than tannins and structure. Perhaps it is with Domaine Gauby’s Calcinaires that the change is most marked. I remember in the 1990s when Gérard Gauby’s wines were rich, oaky and concentrated, whereas today his Calcinaires is fragrant and fresh.
The estates behind the two Outstanding wines in this tasting provide an interesting contrast: Château de Corneilla is one of the region’s old, established estates. The Jonquères d’Oriola family has been making wine since 1485 and Philippe, who worked in both South Africa and London before taking over the family estate in 1970, had a rare international perspective for the time. What’s more, vins secs already made up 75% of his production. Today his son William makes just 5% of VDN.
In contrast, Domaine Le Soula was created in 2001 when Gérard Gauby suggested to the English wine merchant Richards Walford tha there was an investment opportunity in the old vines in a cooler area of the Roussillon. Mark Walford is now the owner and Wendy Wilson is the winemaker. Wilson hails from South Africa but learned winemaking in Virginia. She arrived at Le Soula in time to blend the 2015 vintage, which amply illustrates the ageworthiness of fine Roussillon wines.
Various Côtes du Roussillon Villages and six Collioures accounted for the majority of the Highly Recommendeds, producing some stylish, finely crafted wines. Three-quarters of the Côtes du Roussillon wines were rated as Recommended, fitting for the more extensive appellation, which generally offers enjoyable, easy drinking. However, I would have expected more Highly Recommendeds from Maury (only one of its seven wines scored above 90pts), but the selection in the tasting was disappointingly small given the growing number of serious wine estates in the village.
In summary, the overall quality could not fail to excite. So many of these wines illustrate the steady improvement in the quality of the Roussillon over the last few years and they will offer enormously satisfying drinking, both immediately and with some bottle age.
Top-scoring Rousillon red wines from the panel tasting
The judges
Rosemary George MW is a wine writer based in London and the south of France. Author of more than a dozen books on wine, her latest is The Wines of Roussillon (£35 Infinite Ideas). She publishes her own blog, focusing on the Languedoc, at rosemary-george-mw.com
Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A former retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing, and has a house in southwest France
Frederic Marti is director of wines at five-star 45 Park Lane in London. Born and raised in the south of France, he began as a waiter, working up through Michelin-starred restaurants including El Bulli in Spain, before his first head sommelier role at London’s Pollen Street Social in 2013.
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Mas Baux, Mataro Boy, Côtes Catalanes, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2020

Appealing nose with dark cherry and fragrant spicy fruit character. Quite a rounded harmonious palate with a lovely concentration and purity. Elegant and balanced.
2020
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Mas Mudigliza, Coume des Loups, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019

In the far reaches of the Fenouillèdes in the Roussillon, hand-harvested old vines of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan have produced this lovely peppery, blackberry-tinged wine....
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Domaine des 3 Vallées, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2018

Fresh nose with leafy notes, raspberry and spicy red currant fruit. Ripe and powerful, focused on the palate with touch of graphite on the finish.
2018
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Cave de Tain, Basses Terrasses, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2017

A round, generous and flowing style of Hermitage that’s almost too fat. It’s juicy, but with good acidity, although the alcohol is on the high...
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Domaine La Part des Anges, Alchimie, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2020

Ripe rounded nose with notes of spices, black fruits and well-judged oak. Quite brambly in the mouth, with youthful tannins and a mineral finish.
2020
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Domaine Boudau, Padri, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2018

Dense aromas of ripe fruit, black cherry, kirsch and a touch of spices. Ripe tannins supported by a lively acidity and concentrated fruit.
2018
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Domaine Lafage, La Rétro, Côtes Catalanes, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2020

Fresh nose of vibrant red fruits with a subtle leafy character. Refreshing, with a light tannic streak well-supported by a juicy concentration.
2020
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Domaine LafageCôtes Catalanes
Mas des Montagnes, Terroirs d'Altitude, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2018

Vibrant nose with firm aromas of dark fruits, black olives and spice. Pure and focused on the palate, with a supple texture, layered and complex.
2018
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Mas Llossanes, Dotrera, Côtes Catalanes, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2017

Vibrant aromas of fragrant red berries, leafy dark fruits and plummy notes. Youth with ripe integrated tannins and a lovely concentration.
2017
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Bastide Miraflors, Grande Réserve, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2018

Firm nose of spicy red fruits, leaves and a touch of oak. Energetic palate with a nice weight and balance, refined and fresh.
2018
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Bastide MiraflorsCôtes du Roussillon Villages
Domaine de la Rectorie, Montagne, Collioure, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019

Intriguing undertones of liquorice, orange and red fruit with a dark cherries core. Round and elegant, with a lot of character.
2019
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Claude Vialade, Le Carignan 50 Ans d'Age, Côtes Catalanes, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019

Cool and refined nose, very clean notes of spicy red fruits. Energetic palate showing tension and soft tannins.
2019
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Claude VialadeCôtes Catalanes
Olivier Pithon, Le Pilou, Côtes Catalanes, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019

Interesting nose showing complex aromas of banana, vanilla, spicy oak and forest floor. Crisp palate, very ripe and luscious.
2019
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Clos del Rey, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2018

Lifted nose with warm lavender notes, garrigue aromas and plenty of black currants with hints of fresh leaves. Concentrated, classy and supported by freshness.
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Domaine Grier, Odyssea, Côtes du Roussillon, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019

Youthful aromas of juicy dark berries, tapenade and slight mineral undertones. Crunchy on the palate, yummy with very nice purity.
2019
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Domaine of the Bee, Maury Sec, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019

Very classy, engaging nose with bright fruity scents and layers of complex oak. Lovely freshness on the palate.
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Gérard Bertrand, An 560, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019

Complex aromas of attractive plump black cherry and plums, with hints of spices. Round and fleshy with a fresh finish.
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F Jaubert, 100 C, Côtes Catalanes, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019

Quite a fragrant and refreshing nose of red fruits and spices. Vibrant on the palate, light and fresh, plenty of precision.
2019
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Domaine of the Bee, Les Genoux, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2018

Very perfumed nose of strawberries with fragrant oak notes. Textured on the palate with a lovely weight and mouthfeel.
2018
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Domaine Cazes, Le Credo, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019

Characterful nose of spices and brambly dark fruits, with floral undertones. Youthful palate with firm yet ripe tannins. Enjoyable and complex.
2019
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Domaine de l'Agly, Les Cimes, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019

Concentrated notes of red fruits with fresh leafy undertones. Quite rounded on the palate with supple tannins. Nicely made, elegant and fresh.
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Domaine de la Rectorie, L’Oriental, Collioure, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019

Plenty of ripe dark plums and cherries with fresher red berries notes in the nose. Good depth supported by a lively acidity.
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Domaine Vaquer, L'Exception, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2018

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Sweet aromas of ripe red berries and fresh red currants. Rounded and ripe mouthfeel, supple with a crisp acidity.
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Jeff Carrel, Vieille Mule, Côtes Catalanes, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019

Intriguing nose of intense blackcurrants, leafy and herbal with subtle notes of wild strawberries. Delicious and characterful on the palate.
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Le Roc des Anges, Segna de Cor, Côtes Catalanes, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019

Very expressive nose displaying fragrant scents of spices and dark cherries. Powerful and intense on the palate.
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Cave l'Etoile, Les Toiles Fauves, Collioure, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2020

Elegant, perfumed fruit on the nose, with touches of peach and thyme. Soft and fragrant on the palate with supple tannins.
2020
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Cave l'EtoileCollioure
Cave l'Etoile, Montagne, Collioure, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2020

Notes of baking spices, peppery fruit and dark fruits on the nose. Robust palate nicely balanced by a fresh acidity.
2020
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Cave l'EtoileCollioure
Domaine Thunevin-Calvet, L'Amourette, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2015

Perfumed scents of flowers, dark cherries and hints of Christmas spices. Firm on the palate, robust and structured.
2015
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Domaine Vaquer, Epsilon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2017

Refreshing nose with notes of crushed leaves and ripe blackberries. Impressive weight in the mouth with a firm finish.
2017
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Domaine VaquerCôtes du Roussillon Villages
Laurent Batlle, Les Landes de Pierres, Côtes Catalanes, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2020

Very concentrated nose of ripe black fruits and hints of oak. Crisp and fresh on the palate with fine tannins.
2020
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Laurent BatlleCôtes Catalanes
Pertuisane Productions, Pompier Grenache, Côtes Catalanes, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2020

Vibrant nose of sweet red and black berries with notes of bakery. Medium-bodied and fragrant on the palate.
2020
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Bastide Miraflors, Syrah-Grenache, Côtes du Roussillon, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019

Lifted nose of briary black fruits with some floral character. Rounded and spicy on the palate with freshness and vitality.
2019
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Domaine de Vénus, Passions, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2015

Ripe aromas of blackberry, dark plums, black olives and some spicy notes. Firm on the palate with assertive tannins and freshness.
2015
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Domaine de VénusCôtes du Roussillon Villages
Domaine des Soulanes, Jean Pull, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2020

Very ripe red currant and raspberry aromas with a hint of leafy freshness. Ripe and rounded with supple tannins.
2020
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Mas de la Devèze, Syrare, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019

Ripe fruit aromas of red and black cherries with a hint of fresh grass and oak. Lovely energy, powerful.
2019
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Mas de la DevèzeCôtes du Roussillon Villages
Tessellae, Vieilles Vignes Carignan, Côtes du Roussillon, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019

Intriguing scents of leafy red fruits with peppery raspberries. Plush and voluptuous on the palate with a soft acidity.
2019
Languedoc-RoussillonFrance
TessellaeCôtes du Roussillon
Les Clos de Paulilles, Collioure, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2020

Fruity nose with plenty of ripe forest fruits. Very concentrated, youthful and warm, with firm tannins and nicely-integrated oak.
2020
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Les Clos de PaulillesCollioure
Mas de la Devèze, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019

Ripe aromas of dark plums and blackberries, with subtle hints of oak. Firm and structured, with a fresh finish.
2019
Languedoc-RoussillonFrance
Mas de la DevèzeCôtes du Roussillon Villages
Mas Mudigliza, Carminé, Côtes du Roussillon, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2018

Vibrant and juicy notes of rich red fruits and spicy oak. Medium-bodied with supple tannins balanced by a fresh acidity.
2018
Languedoc-RoussillonFrance
Mas MudiglizaCôtes du Roussillon
Res Fortes, Côtes du Roussillon, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019

Spicy aromas of crunchy red berries and black cherry. Lifted palate with a nice weight and crisp acidity.
2019
Languedoc-RoussillonFrance
Res FortesCôtes du Roussillon
Terres Plurielles, # Cent Pour Cent Grenache, Côtes Catalanes, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2020

Delicate aromas of fragrant red berries and red cherries. Pleasing freshness on the palate, bright and juicy. Energetic.
2020
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Terres PluriellesCôtes Catalanes

Rosemary George MW was one of the first ever female Masters of Wine, gaining her MW status in 1979. She has worked as a freelance wine journalist since 1981, and is a vice-president of the Circle of Wine Writers, becoming its president in April 2015. She has written 11 wine books, including The Wines of the South of France, from Banyuls to Bellet. Her most recent book is a new edition of her first very book on Chablis, The Wines of Chablis and the Grand Auxerrois, and she is currently working on an eBook on Faugères. George has a second home in the Languedoc, and writes a blog on the region, tastelanguedoc.blogspot.com. She was joint Regional Chair for Languedoc-Roussillon at the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2015, she first judged the competition in 2004.