Sparkling adventures on the Orient Express
Veuve Clicquot hosted a luxury railway trip on board the iconic Venice-Simplon-Orient-Express, A Belmond Train. Julie Sheppard jumped on board for exclusive cuvées, Michelin-starred dining and a taste of the golden age of train travel.
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‘Dream on, but don’t imagine they’ll all come true. When will you realise… Vienna waits for you…’ The lyrics from Billy Joel’s Vienna could have been the soundtrack to my trip to Austria’s capital. But in fact this was a visit where dreams just might have come true…
Vienna was my starting point for a once-in-a-lifetime adventure with Veuve Clicquot on board the iconic Orient Express. Taking place across three days, the Veuve Clicquot European Solaire Journey would whisk guests from Vienna to Paris on board the Venice-Simplon-Orient-Express, A Belmond Train.
With luxury Champagne tastings and Michelin-starred dining, this was set to be an unforgettable experience.
Celebrating 250 years of Veuve Clicquot, this Solaire Journey was inspired by the pioneering spirit of Madame Clicquot, who found herself at the helm of her late husband’s Champagne house, as a young widow in 1805.
The trip across Europe – plus two others in Asia and South America – offered an invitation to ‘follow the sun’, inspired by the brand’s signature sunshine yellow.
Vienna calling
And indeed, the evening sun cast a warm glow as guests gathered at Vienna’s historic Palais Liechtenstein, where lavish state rooms house a private art collection and Baroque masterpieces. It was a magical setting for an extravagant gala dinner by top Austrian chef Andreas Döllerer, known for his ‘Alpine cuisine’.
Each meticulously crafted dish was matched with a vintage cuvée of Veuve Clicquot in magnum. Standout pairings included Döllerer’s signature ’Alpine scallop’ with the fresh, mineral Vintage 2008, and beef short rib, pickled horseradish and chive sauce, which complemented the umami notes in the Vintage 2002. (See below for full tasting notes.)
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The following day a fleet of gleaming calèches – Vienna’s traditional horse-drawn carriages – waited in the bright morning sun outside the grand Imperial Hotel to whisk guests away for a tour of the city.
Then it was time to board the legendary Orient Express and take a step back in history to the golden heyday of railway travel.
All aboard
The excitement is tangible as guests receive a red-carpet welcome from staff in smart blue uniforms and peaked caps, directing us to stylish Art Deco cabins in the vintage carriages. Amid the bustle of unpacking, suddenly we’re in motion; the grand train leaving the station at a stately pace, gaining momentum while the city flies by and the Austrian countryside slides past the windows.
Guests meet in the dining cars for lunch by Michelin-starred French chef Jean Imbert, paired with magnums of Veuve Clicquot’s Extra Brut Extra Old 3, conversation flowing with the Champagne.
Suddenly we feel like characters in Agatha Christie’s Murder on the Orient Express – though the mood is far from murderous for this cast of Champagne-loving pleasure seekers.
The scene is set: apéritif hour in Bar Car 3674, with its sparkling glassware and sleek baby grand piano. The Solaire travellers gather, elegantly arrayed in black-tie, with an air of anticipation for the evening ahead.
Pierre Casenave, director of oenology at Veuve Clicquot, introduces a selection of exceptional vintages of Veuve Clicquot in magnum, including Cave Privée 1998 and Cave Privée 1985, Brut and Rosé. Each cuvée is specially paired with a dish devised by Imbert.
An amuse-bouche of chanterelle mushrooms with roasted peach is followed by lobster and a main of Bresse chicken to partner the Cave Privée 1985 Brut.
To finish, apricot confit with tonka bean and Pellegrini goat’s cheese is paired with the beautiful 1985 Rosé, my star match of the night.
Sunset to sunrise
But the night has only just begun. The atmosphere is effervescent in the bar car, where the band plays Rat Pack classics and guests sing along. In a glittering flash of gold sequins and feathers, Veuve Clicquot’s show-girls arrive to entertain.
As the train weaves through Austrian mountain passes, suave bartenders deftly glide through the party to keep the Champagne cocktails flowing.
Forget Murder on the Orient Express; tonight we’re all extras in The Great Gatsby enveloped in a heady mix of luxury and glamour.
When the fun ends, I’m lulled to sleep by the rocking motion of the train. My cosy cabin prepared by the porter, who delivers a decadent breakfast in bed the next morning.
Overnight the Orient Express has passed through the Alps en route to Reims – home to Veuve Clicquot since 1772. It’s the next stop on our Solaire Journey, where the destination is Veuve Clicquot’s famous UNESCO World Heritage-listed crayères.
Home to maturing bottles of Champagne, these atmospheric Gallo-Roman chalk quarries lying deep below ground provide the setting for the final meal of the trip.
Star performance
What’s better than one Michelin-star chef? Two. Together Imbert and fellow Michelin luminary Mory Sacko devised a Menu Miroir, offering their individual takes on the same dish. Each course is served with both a Brut and Rosé of Veuve Clicquot’s La Grande Dame cuvées 2015, 2012 and 2008 in magnum, for an incredible vertical tasting.
To start, Sacko’s cold dashi soup with tomato versus Imbert’s tomate du potager de la Reine, paired with the 2015s. Then Imbert’s lobster á la Parisienne takes on Sacko’s vanilla lobster and Japanese-style potato salad alongside the 2012s.
Finally for the 2008s, both chefs have created a salmon coulibiac – traditionally a type of stuffed, layered pie – Sacko’s modern dish resembles a California roll; while Imbert’s classical take is wrapped in buttery pastry.
Back on the train, a laid-back DJ set in Bar Car 3674 is the soundtrack for the final leg of our Soliare Journey to Paris. Where better to end this sparkling experience than the City of Light?
And maybe there’s time for just one more coupe of Champagne before we alight…
The final Solaire Journey from Cusco to Arequipa in Peru, via Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca, on board the Hiram Bingham, A Belmond Train and Andean Explorer, A Belmond Train, will take place from 21-26 October 2024. For information visit Belmond.com
Veuve Clicquot in magnum: tasting notes
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Veuve Clicquot, Champagne, France, 2002

94
Complex toasty aromas of apricot pastries, citrus and apple, allied with a mineral aspect. Tasted in magnum, this is now displaying complex layers: umami savouriness and mushroom notes, with a focused seam of acidity and lots of refreshing citrus – grapefruit pith and preserved lemon – plus stone fruit, spice and tart green apple notes weaving through. A velvety texture; great presence and persistence – and still with some life ahead of it.
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Julie Sheppard joined the Decanter team in 2018 and is Regional Editor for Australia, New Zealand and South Africa & Spirits Editor.
Before Decanter, she worked for a range of drinks and food titles, including as managing editor of both Imbibe and Square Meal, associate publisher of The Drinks Business, senior editor of the Octopus Publishing Group and Supplements editor of Harpers Wine & Spirit. As a contributor, she has over 20 years’ experience writing about food, drink and travel for a wide range of publications, including Condé Nast Traveller, Delicious, Waitrose Kitchen, Waitrose Drinks, Time Out and national newspapers including The Telegraph and The Sunday Times.
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