Steven Spurrier’s wines of the month

Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor hand-picked fine wines for drinking now and for the cellar, based on tastings that he has attended recently.

From the cellar

Dr Lippold, Urziger Würzgarten- Weltersberg Riesling Auslese 2010

On the instigation of Mosel winemaker Dr Enno Lippold, five colleagues and I sat down in November in front of Riesling producers from six countries, each showing a 2010 to prove ‘how complex and harmonious serious Rieslings can be once their components have had time to settle down and blend together’.

First was Niki Saahs with his Nikolaihof, Steiner Hund from Austria’s Wachau, aged for 30 months in old casks: rich yet dry with the Riesling kick on the finish. Then came Morten Hallgren with his Ravines, Argetsinger Vineyard from New York’s Finger Lakes: a fine balance of phenolics and minerality, still young. Giuseppe Vajra presented the Vajra, Petracine, Langhe – Piedmont’s first Riesling, planted in 1985: very varietal, showing dried honey and a stone fruit finish. Olivier Humbrecht MW from Alsace followed with his Zind- Humbrecht, Clos Windsbuhl: tight and honeyed, grippy and vertical. By contrast, and no less fine, was Pewsey Vale’s The Contours, from South Australia’s Eden Valley presented by Jon Stevens: floral and lemony with hints of petrol, fine length and purity.

Finally, Dr Lippold’s own Urziger Würzgarten Weltersberg Auslese, from 65-year-old vines: intrinsically Mosel in character, with natural richness enhanced by age, superb to 2040.

For the cellar

Tyrrell’s, Vat 1 Hunter Semillon

Tyrrell’s, based in its historic homestead in New South Wales’ Hunter Valley, is in its 160th year of winemaking, headed up by fourth-generation Bruce and fifth-generation Jane, John and Chris Tyrrell.

In London a few months ago to present the family’s wines, Chris explained that even though he is the youngest member of the team, he was already on his 17th vintage, while head winemaker Andy Simmons was on his 40th. Such continuity was plain to see through a range of Tyrrell’s renowned Vat 1 Semillon, from the not-yet released 2017 back to 1998 – the first vintage under screwcap.

Vat 1 is made only from the best blocks, the centrepiece being the Short Flat vineyard planted in 1923. The 2017 is superb, and 1,000 magnums will be made (to be released in 2022) to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the first vintage of Vat 1. The just-released 2013 is lovely, already showing complex ripeness from just 11.5% alcohol and natural vigour to see it into its third decade.

The 2009 is perfect now with charm and depth; the 2006 has smoothed out well; while the 2005, a ‘museum release’, is more structured than both – my wine of the evening. 2004 and 2003 matched each other in creamy texture balanced by natural acidity; while the 1998 boasted honey-like concentration. Prices and stockists from UK importer John E Fells.

The Spurrier selection

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