Steven Spurrier’s wines of the month

Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor hand-picked fine wines for drinking now and for the cellar, based on tastings that he has attended recently.

From the cellar

Ferreira, Vintage Port 1847

Quinta do Porto, the oldest property in the Ferreira portfolio, was built in 1771 and purchased by Dona Antónia Adelaide Ferreira in 1863. Located near Pinhao in the heart of the Douro region, its 24ha on terraced schistous soil benefit from a southern exposure. Head of winemaking for Sogrape (Ferreira’s owners since 1987), Luís Sottomayor’s first vintage, following on from Fernando Nicolau de Almeida, was the 2007. Sottomayor (above, right) was in London recently to show the Ferreira Vinhas Velhas 2016, from a 6ha plot of 80- to 100-year-old vines in the Quinta do Porto, the finest Port I have tasted from this excellent vintage. This was preceded by the Ferreira 2011, 2007, 1977, 1917 and 1847 vintages, which we started with at 12.15pm and tasted again at 3pm over coffee. The 1847 wine would have included white varieties from a ‘field blend’ and have been bottled in the 1860s. The colour was amber-green, showing rich ‘legs’; it was still sweet and nutty with dry molasses notes at first growing richer in the glass, totally harmonious. Three hours later it seemed almost more energetic, and far, far younger than its 171 years, a memorable experience. The 1917 showed more intensity and ‘youthful’ strength as it enters its second century.

For the cellar

Viña Aquitania, Lazuli, Maipo 2015

The Viña Aquitania adventure began in 1984 when Bruno Prats and the Paul Pontallier from Bordeaux joined forces with Felipe de Solminihac to create a Chilean fine wine. The terroir they chose for what was to be their flagship Cabernet Sauvignon was at the foot of the Andes in the heart of Chile’s Maipo Valley. Construction of the wine cellar was completed in 1993. In 2002 they were joined by Ghislain de Montgolfier, on his retirement from Champagne Bollinger, and they explored much cooler land in the very south of the country, selecting the Malleco Valley where they planted Chardonnay, which is used for their Sol de Sol wine. The early vintages of Lazuli I tasted were on the green side – Bruno Prats admitted that they had been picking a month too early, and for some years now the harvest has been in mid-April, accepting the 14.5% alcohol as part of a truly harmonious ripeness of fruit. Though Pontallier passed away in March 2016 and his last vintage was 2014, the 2015 (£20ib, Lay & Wheeler) still carries his hallmark elegance, showing great clarity from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon on gravel soils, deep ruby in colour, black fruits on the nose, florality, purity and spice blending on the palate with refreshing finish. Almost ready now, another five to 10 years will see it reach its best.

The Spurrier selection

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