Steven Spurrier’s wines of the month – October
Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Hall of Fame Award recipient picks fine wines to drink now and others to lay down, all priced from £25 upwards...
From the cellar
Domaine de Trévallon, Coteaux d’Aix en Provence 1989
This wine – I sold the very first 1977 vintage in my Paris shop and have the superb 2007 in my Dorset cellar – was one of the many stars at Yapp Bros 50th Anniversary lunch in early June, hosted by founder Robin Yapp, his wife Judith and the next generation Jason Yapp and Tom Ashworth.
Champagne J Dumangin Fils 2004 preceded magnums of Jean-Louis Chave’s Hermitage Blanc 1983, golden in colour, grandiose on the palate, followed by a sensational Coteau de Vernon Condrieu 2017 from Georges Vernay.
Midway through the meal came the lovely Château Simone, Palette 2017 rosé, the reds beginning with magnums of Filliatreau’s Vieilles Vignes Saumur-Champigny 2015, the best of this underrated Touraine Cabernet Franc. Then magnums of the Trévallon 1989, 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Syrah, the warmest of the great 1988-90 trio of vintages. Planted on rocky soils near St-Rémy- de-Provence by Eloi and Floriane Dürrbach in 1973, the estate has matured to 15ha of red vines and 2ha of white Marsanne and Roussanne, the former now sold under IGP status, the percentage of Cabernet being above the Baux-de-Provence appellation guidelines. Richly textured with garriguey spice and superb structure, this is without doubt Provence’s best red wine, great now and for another few years.
For the cellar
Tahbilk, Old Vines Cabernet-Shiraz, Victoria, Australia 2016
The Shiraz-Cabernet blend is an Australian institution, championed in the country in the late 1800s as generic ‘claret’, then resurrected in the 1950s and today rightly celebrated as a national treasure. In its honour, Matthew Jukes and Tyson Stelzer created The Great Australian Red competition, receiving on its inaugural judges’ dinner on 24 July 2006 a ‘Carry on the great work’ endorsement from the great Len Evans.
This they have done, and in June presented the 2019 gold medal winners: a baker’s dozen of very different wines for the cellar alongside some more mature vintages. While Yalumba’s The Caley 2013 took my highest mark, justifying the £260 retail price, the wine for my own cellar is this confidently old-fashioned Tahbilk 2016 from Victoria’s premium Nagambie Lakes region. The Cabernet (62%) blocks date from 1949 and the Shiraz (38%) from 1860 and 1933, the blend showing a superb deep colour, briary rather than spicy fruit, elegantly extracted and natural length, finesse without leanness and excellent balance from time spent in a mix of French and American oak.
Fourth-generation CEO and winemaker Alister Purbrick suggests cellaring to 2025-2030, while I might begin opening bottles from 2021 just for pleasure. 95pts, 14% alcohol, available at £25.99 from distributor Hallgarten Wines.
The Spurrier Selection
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Pierro, Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia, Australia, 2017
Long one of Margaret River’s best Chardonnays, and this 2017 continues that remarkable consistency. It’s a Chassagne- Montrachet style wine that marries breadth of flavour with delicate intensity, finishing with length and precision.
2017
PierroMargaret River
Terra Costantino, Contrada Blandano, Etna, Sicily, Italy, 2014
A 90% Nerello Mascalese, 10% Nerello Cappuccio blend from 35- to 100-year-old vines at 500m on volcanic ash. Almost delicate fruit expression with a firm backbone – reminiscent of Pinot Noir with more natural energy. A really lovely wine.
2014
Terra CostantinoEtna
Howard's Folly, Reserva Tinto, Alentejo, Portugal, 2012
With labels by the late Howard Hodgkin, whose vibrant colours express the warmth and spice of the 75% Syrah, 25% Alicante Bouschet blend. Consultant David Baverstock selects the best barrels for this reserva.
2012
Howard's Folly
