The best Rioja vintages to drink now

The oldies: 1862-1964

The most relevant quality of top Rioja wines is their capacity to improve over time in the cellar, often over a very long time. Some of the very rare 19th century Rioja that is still available gives unforgettable sensorial experiences.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for top Riojas that are drinking well now

If you happen to have any bottle of very old Rioja, particularly Riscal, go for it. A high proportion of them are very likely to provide a great tasting moment, if you follow a few rules:

• The wines that age well were made to age well. No miracles. Avoid lesser (at the time) wineries and wines. However, keep in mind that many wineries that are now not in their best moment used to be great.
• Know what to expect: silky texture, low alcohol, suave but abundant tannins, tertiary aromas, which are neither animal nor oxidised, very long finishes. Old Rioja wines that are thin or decadent are simply not good enough.
• Avoid the period 1901-1914: vines were being replanted after phylloxera. Wines are thin.
• There are no good old wines but good old bottles. The cellaring conditions are key for quality. Ullage (the free space in the bottle) is crucial. Nevertheless, for reasons I do not understand well, large ullage looks to me less risky in Rioja than in Bordeaux.
  

The most recent and reasonably available old Rioja vintage is 1964: a perfect vintage. Most well-preserved wines are still great now. I would recommend tasting any of the great red wines of this vintage if you have a chance, in order to have a glimpse on how original Rioja was: delicate, balanced, complex, slow.

The sad years: 1965-1993

Agriculture follows human developments with a certain time lag. In 1959, Spain’s dictatorship decided, upon American influence, to become competitive. Productivity and efficiency became the norm. The mood took a decade to reach the vines, but, when it did, it stayed for a long time. Old vines were grubbed up, pesticides, fertilisers and the like were introduced.

Rioja entered the worst period of its history: a period of mediocrity. Some excellent vintages, like 1970, are of small interest because of widespread fraud and bad viticulture. Other potentially great vintages are practically dead now.

Fortunately there are some exceptions, such as La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 890 1978 and Bodegas Muga Prado Enea 1982.

The renaissance

The trilogy of years 1994, 1995 and 1996 marks the definite recovery of Rioja as a top wine region.

More than the vintages (which were excellent), new people, new rules and new ambitions played a role in that. Those wines are now mature and lovely to drink, and will be good for many years. Marqués de Riscal’s Barón de Chirel and CVNE Imperial are great examples.

Then came the greatest vintage ever: 2001. Practically anything from this year is amazingly good. Classic gran reserva, new-wave wines, all kinds of inbetweens. It is the most necessary vintage to taste for understanding Rioja.

If possible, go for the top bottles – being aware of the high risk of getting hooked to the region. Roda Cirsion and Allende are impossibly good.

The 2000s

There are three trios of great Rioja vintages in recent times: 2004-2006, 2010-2012 and 2015-2017. Try as many as you like; you will find your favourite style. Names are as important as ever. Diversity of style is increasingly relevant. There are too many names to mention – but start with some of the recommendations below.

White wines

White Rioja wine can be even more unique than red, but it is much rarer to find. Many of López de Heredia’s Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva vintages are now excellent.

For perfection, try Marqués de Murrieta Ygay 1946 or 1970.

Currently Remírez de Ganuza, Abel Mendoza and more are producing white wines for you and/or your children to enjoy.

See tasting notes and scores for top Riojas that are drinking well now

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