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The insiders’ guide to Tuscany – how to have a fine time in Florence, Lucca and Chianti Classico
From grabbing a lampredotto panino to enjoying a drink at the winemakers’ favourite hangout, let our experts help you get around Tuscany like a local, avoid the tourist traps and enjoy the best the region has to offer.
Italy editor James Button rounded up a crack team of Decanter‘s regular expert Italian contributors, got them to open their address books and share their pearls of wisdom about that most renowned of Italian regions – Tuscany.
Following on from part one, in part two they share their favourite places to go in Florence, Lucca and Chianti Classico, and reveal the best place to try a true Tuscan delicacy – tripe!
See below for our experts’ insider tips on travelling and dining in Tuscany
For a fine time in Florence
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Antonella Lotti says… ‘A real treat, Michelin one-star Borgo San Jacopo offers stunning views across the Arno river in Florence. Helmed by executive chef Claudio Mengoni and head sommelier Salvatore Biscotti.’
Richard Baudains says… ‘In the very lively Borgo Ognissanti in Florence, Vino al Vino offers a highly personal selection of wines by the glass and to take away, from producers hard or impossible to find elsewhere. And just down the street is one of the very few churches in Firenze where you can find Renaissance masterpieces with no entry fee.’
Arianna Nieri says… ‘My insider’s tip for f ish and seafood lovers is L’Angolo del Mare, on the corner of Viale Edmondo de Amicis, a little to the east of the city centre.’
Raffaele Mosca says… ‘Located in the laid-back Oltrarno neighbourhood, just south of the river but within walking distance of the city’s most renowned attractions, Il Santo Bevitore is my favourite spot in Florence for dinner. Slightly more sophisticated than the usual Florentine trattoria but still welcoming and unpretentious, the menu is all about Tuscan classics with a contemporary twist, including outstanding fegatini (toasted bread with liver paté) and carabaccia (traditional onion soup). The wine list is extensive and well thought-out.’
Åsa Johansson says… ‘Head to the Tripperia Pollini food truck on Piazza Sant’Ambrogio (pictured above), Florence, for the ultimate panino with tripe (lampredotto). Add a plastic cup of rustic red wine and you’ve got street food perfection, Tuscan style!’
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Antonella Lotti says… ‘Discover the original cantucci (almond biscotti) at Antonio Mattei in Florence and Prato out a little to its northwest.’
A few must-dos in Lucca
Enoteca Vanni
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Cristina Mercuri says… ‘Located in the heart of Lucca, L’Imbuto is run by chef Cristiano Tomei, who provides a truly creative and experimental dining experience.’
Filippo Magnani says… ‘Situated in labyrinthine cellars dating back to 200CE, Enoteca Vanni (pictured above) has been a true temple of wine in Lucca since 1965. Paolo Petroni welcomes visitors in atmospheric surroundings crammed full of some 3,000 different wines and a wide range of grappa and liqueurs. This wine shop and bar is an essential stop for any wine lover who wishes to enjoy delightful Tuscan tapas paired beautifully with an outstanding Tuscan wine selection and Italian bubbles.’
Raffaele Mosca says… ‘Former Slow Wine Guide editor, now author and consultant Fabio Pracchia recently opened Santa Goccia, a small but welcoming wine bar in the heart of Lucca. The selection reflects his own passion for low-intervention wine, ranging from biodynamic local producers to rare gems from the Canary Islands.’ (Also recommended by Åsa Johansson)
Snack attack!
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Cristina Mercuri says… ‘You absolutely must try cecina. It’s a traditional Tuscan flatbread made with chickpea flour, water, olive oil and salt. Baked until golden and slightly crispy on top, it has a soft, custardy inside. It’s best enjoyed warm with a sprinkle of black pepper.
Filippo Magnani says… ‘Each day, Francesca and Cristina open the door of historic driver’s stop Da Alcide on the Via Aurelia, the ancient Roman route from Pisa to Rome. They offer a variety of Tuscan salamis and sheep’s cheeses, crafting panini and snacks on request.’
Sarah Lane says… ‘I’d stop for a snack of local cheese with wine at Gino Cacino di Angelo, an atmospheric, Aladdin’s den-type deli on the Piazza del Mercato in Siena. There’s always an imaginative selection of panini with tasty combinations of fillings and all sorts of foodie items for sale.’
Gabriele Gorelli MW says… ‘Mollica’s (pictured above) is a food truck that can usually be found in Follonica on the Tuscan coast. It’s worth looking out for their products in the deli section of Conad supermarkets in Tuscany. They serve quintessentially Tuscan panini and classic dishes including, of course, lampredotto (tripe) and porchetta (roasted rolled pork). Mollica’s is the brainchild of Silvia and Mattia, uncompromising advocates for Tuscan authenticity.’
Chianti Classico essentials
Fattoria Castel Ruggero
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Åsa Johansson says… ‘Located just to the southeast of Florence, Fattoria Castel Ruggero in the far north of the Chianti Classico region is a hidden gem – a private estate with one of Italy’s most enchanting gardens and a peaceful, authentic atmosphere far from the tourist trail.’
Michaela Morris says… ‘Enoteca Baldi in Panzano is where the local winemakers hang out. All the Chianti Classico you could want and much more, including a drool-worthy selection of Champagne!’ (Also recommended by Emily O’Hare)
Emily O’Hare says… ‘Bottega a Campana is a deli with a kitchen and local bottles to pull off the shelves or from the fridge yourself. A high-quality pit stop in Panzano, central Chianti Classico, with plenty of options beyond a sandwich or elaborate salads, and a daily changing menu of fresh seasonal dishes.’
Åsa Johansson says… ‘Ristoro di Lamole is the epitome of a classic Italian trattoria, set high in the Lamole hills with a jaw-dropping view over the Chianti Classico countryside. The food, service and wine list are consistently outstanding, never missing a beat.’
Michaela Morris says… ‘At Chianti Classico’s highest heights, the tiny enclave Fattoria Castel Ruggero Enoteca Baldi of Lamole is like stepping back in time. Producer I Fabbri is the reference here and owner Susanna Grassi is a warm and welcoming host. Book lunch or dinner at nearby Ristoro di Lamole (see Åsa Johansson’s choice above) to take in the sweeping views.’
Gabriele Gorelli MW says… ‘Riecine, at Gaiole in Chianti, is a truly innovative and enticing Chianti Classico experience: a small winery that has been certified organic for almost a decade. The wines, made by winemaker and proprietor Alessandro Campatelli, are beautiful expressions of great terroir, the views are off the scale, and modern art pieces designed for the spaces add something delightfully different to the visitor experience.’
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