The insiders’ guide to Tuscany – how to get around and the best places for lunch and dinner

Italy editor James Button rounded up a crack team of Decanter‘s regular expert Italian contributors, got them to open their address books and share their pearls of wisdom about that most renowned of Italian regions – Tuscany.

In part one, they suggest the best ways of getting around, the best spots for lunch and dinner and their favourite wine bars away from the madding crowds.

See below for our experts’ insider tips on travelling and dining in Tuscany

Top tips: Getting around the region

Filippo Magnani says… ‘Landing at Pisa or Florence airports, you can rent a car and head towards the province of Livorno on the Tuscan coast, where you’ll reach the renowned wine districts of Bolgheri and Suvereto. Right across from the coast lies Elba island – just a one-hour ferry ride away. Alternatively, if you land at Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci airport, you can transfer to Termini central station and take a high-speed train to Florence. From there, you’re perfectly positioned to discover the inland of Tuscany, Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino and San Gimignano.’

Åsa Johansson says… ‘Set your alarm and hit the famous towns early in the morning. Experiencing places such as Siena, Florence or San Gimignano before the crowds descend is pure magic.’

Raffaele Mosca says… ‘Venture beyond the renowned areas. The less well-travelled parts of the region have plenty to offer!’

Richard Baudains says… ‘The Autolinee Toscane public bus network covers every corner of the region. It’s slow but economical – and you get to see the real provincial Tuscany on the winding routes through the villages.’

Sarah Lane says… ‘Walk! The slow way is the best way to really experience the lovely Tuscan countryside. To cover longer distances, make use of the sometimes sparse but usually reliable public transport.’

Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW says… ‘If travelling by car, be aware that you frequently need to park on the edge of town to avoid congestion charges. For reaching the main towns, trains are a good option.’

Gabriele Gorelli MW says… ‘The Eroica, a non-competitive cycling event using vintage bikes and costumes, now exists in various iterations all over Italy and in other countries – but it all started in Gaiole in Chianti in 1997. It’s possible to follow some or all of the 209km permanent route at any time of year, by bike, e-bike or motorbike. It’s a fantastic way to experience Tuscany at its most beautiful.’

Michaela Morris says… ‘Renting a car is key to getting off the beaten track. Take the smaller roads and give yourself plenty of time to get to where you want to end up. Above all, don’t be afraid to get lost – unmapped adventures have been some of my most memorable.’

Let’s do lunch…

Sarah Lane says… ‘After walking up to see the world-famous view over Florence from the Piazzale Michelangelo in the Oltrarno district, I’d stop at Enoteca Fuori Porta for tasty crostini and wine from the ever-changing selection.’

Antonella Lotti says… ‘For great prosciutto and more, visit La Casa del Prosciutto in Vicchio, Florence.’

Richard Baudains says… ‘Join the hustle and bustle on the first floor of the Mercato Centrale in Florence for an amazing range of authentic artisan fast food and wine, from traditional to ethnic to fusion.’

Åsa Johansson says… ‘Tecum is a cosy trattoria tucked away in the northern outskirts of Florence. No tourists, just a fresh, youthful vibe, excellent cooking and a wine list that punches well above its weight.’

Filippo Magnani says… ‘In 1974, La Pineta in Marina di Bibbona, not far from Bolgheri, was just a simple family beachfront trattoria. In 1997, it was La Pineta Bottiglieria Salefino awarded a Michelin star thanks to former fisherman turned cult chef Luciano Zazzeri. Today, it’s masterfully run by his sons, Andrea and Daniele. Don’t miss their masterpiece – the cacciucco della pineta, a traditional fish soup.’ (Also recommended by Cristina Mercuri)

Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW says… ‘Osteria Magona is paradise for meat lovers! This rustic restaurant in Bolgheri is known for its fantastic selection of high-quality Tuscan meat, as well as an extensive selection of the best local wines. In the summer, you can sit outside among the olive trees, and in the cooler months, sit inside with a roaring fire. Frequented by locals, this is the go-to place for local wineries to take guests.’

Michaela Morris says… ‘Go hungry to Trattoria Il Pozzo in Sant’Angelo in Colle, Montalcino. Bistecca alla Fiorentina is the main event; however, it would be a mistake to skip homemade pasta dishes such as pinci (aka pici) al ragù or pappardelle al cinghiale (wild boar). Wines hail from the who’s who of Montalcino. You’ll need the rest of the afternoon to digest.’

Gabriele Gorelli MW says… ‘Il Giardino di Caino: this Tuscan bistro is the informal younger sibling of Caino, a two-star Michelin restaurant in the charming village of Montemerano, in Maremma. The perfect pairing for this experience is a dip in the natural hot springs, Cascate del Mulino, in nearby Saturnia.’

Your keep-it-secret wine bar?

Cristina Mercuri says… ‘Small and cosy, Libero in Pietrasanta boasts one of the most complete wine lists in the northern Tuscan area of Versilia.’ +39 0584 790452

Gabriele Gorelli MW says… ‘A wine bar, or to be more literal, a bottle shop that has a restaurant cellar to fall back on is an excellent combination. Bottiglieria Salefino is an institution in Siena, beloved by graduating students and locals, offering oysters, tapas and a great wine selection just 10 minutes’ walk from the main square.’

Sarah Lane says… ‘That’s a secret! But one I do love is Emporio di Ines, in the countryside of southern Tuscany near the border with Umbria and not far from Arezzo and Cortona. There’s a lovely garden setting and wines can be accompanied by a selection of small plates.’

Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW says… ‘Enoteca La Fortezza di Montalcino, located in Montalcino’s ancient fortress, is my favourite place to taste Brunello. Explore the differences between the zones of the region and discover wines that aren’t available on the export market. (PS: They offer international delivery!)’

Dinner destination?

Cristina Mercuri says… ‘Historic Michelin one-star Lorenzo in Forte dei Marmi on the coast northwest of Pisa is renowned for its high-quality food, extensive wine list and incredibly gentle staff.’

Michaela Morris says… ‘Worth the visit to Siena alone, Osteria Le Logge is housed in an old grocery store and is owned by Laura Brunelli of Montalcino’s excellent Gianni Brunelli estate. Sophisticated fare goes beyond Tuscan classics but is always authentic and satisfying rather than precious. The wine list is extensive and includes older vintages of many wines.’

Richard Baudains says… ‘Tuscany is carnivore heaven and Officina della Bistecca in Panzano is the cult location for beef eaters. A fixed menu, convivial communal tables, amazing value for money and BYO at no extra charge. I recommend staying somewhere close by and returning in the morning to Dario Cecchini’s butcher shop.’

Gabriele Gorelli MW says… ‘This is one of those situations where the journey and the destination are on an equal footing. Enjoy every minute of the drive to the medieval village of Castiglioncello del Trinoro, through the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Val d’Orcia. Ensconced on a narrow street is Oreade, a contemporary fine dining restaurant that opened in 2025. Chef Riccardo Bacciottini, with experience at Noma and Maze, is doing great things. Be sure to book – there are only 14 covers.’

Sarah Lane says… ‘It would be Cuprena, a gorgeous stone farmhouse agriturismo near Arezzo with friendly owners and an osteria that serves delicious dishes incorporating fresh vegetables from the garden, homemade bread and pasta, and the farm’s own olive oil, all paired with wines from small-scale Tuscan producers. Best of all, after dinner you can relax in the garden and stay in one of the attractive bedrooms.’

Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW says… ‘Set on a hill overlooking the Montalcino landscape with the town in the distance and offering a 180-degree view of the valley, Il Passaggio by Capanna is one of the most romantic spots in the area. The fine dining menu uses all local products including fruits, vegetables and herbs from its own gardens. Many older vintages of Capanna’s Brunello di Montalcinos (Platinum Decanter World Wine Award winners in 2023 and 2025) are available, as well as wines from many other local producers.’

Filippo Magnani says… ‘Il Tufo Allegro is an authentic family restaurant in the heart of the fascinating village of Pitigliano, perched on a tufa cliff. Chef Domenico Pichini will take you on a gastronomic journey through Maremma in southern Tuscany. The menu changes seasonally to ensure the use of fresh, local ingredients. Among the most loved dishes is their fresh homemade pappardelle pasta with wild boar ragù.’

Read the next part of the Insider’s guide to Tuscany: How to have a fine time in Florence, Lucca and Chianti Classico

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