2017 Côte de Nuits en primeur
Bales of damp straw providing a smokescreen to ward off the spring frosts at Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, 29 April 2017.
(Image credit: drouhin-laroze.com)

Tim Atkin MW suggests you 'stick to producers you know and trust' in the 2017 Côte de Nuits. Scroll down for his report, including best producers and hundreds of tasting notes & scores...


Scroll down to see Tim’s Côte de Nuits tasting notes & scores


It’s extremely difficult to summarise the Côte de Nuits in 2017. While it’s true that this is a vintage that expresses individual terroirs, it’s also one in which human decisions – especially picking dates, crop levels and time in barrel – have had a significant impact.

A hailstorm hit the northern part of Morey-St-Denis, but it was the dry conditions and heatwaves at the end of June and August, and the number of bunches left on the vines that had a greater influence on the style of the vintage.


‘The conditions prompted some producers to pick their grands crus first’


The harvest was very spread out, with some people waiting to ripen large crops, while others were a little less greedy and started early to preserve acidity.

Green harvests were widely practised by many of the top names to reduce volumes, while rain at the start of September helped to mitigate the heat stress. The conditions prompted some producers to pick their grands crus first, which is ‘not your classic order’, as Benoît Stehly of Domaine Georges Lignier put it.


Côte de Nuits tasting notes by village:

Chambolle-Musigny

Fixin

Gevrey-Chambertin

Marsannay

Morey-St-Denis

Nuits-St-Georges

Vosne-Romanée

Vougeot


Overall, this is a Côte de Nuits vintage that certainly produced some excellent reds, as well as a lot of pleasurable, easy-drinking ones but it also has its share of soft and dilute ones.

More than ever, it makes sense to taste before you buy and stick to producers you know and trust. For all that, even some famous names under-performed in 2017: caveat emptor.

Best Côte de Nuits producers:

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti

Domaine Denis Mortet

Domaine Drouhin-Laroze

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair

Domaine Dugat-Py

Domaine Fourrier

Domaine Georges Roumier

Domaine Jean Grivot

Domaine Robert Groffier


Tim’s top 2017 Côte de Nuits en primeur wines:

See all Burgundy 2017 en primeur tasting notes & scores


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Domaine Dugat-Py, Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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Just when you think the Dugat-Py range can't get any better, you have a taste of this mind-blowing Chambertin, which gets my vote as the...

2017

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Domaine Dugat-PyChambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Dugat-Py, Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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Loïc Dugat-Py makes a pure Mazoyères alongside his Charmes-Chambertin, sourced from two 0.3ha blocks of 40 and 70 years old on stony soils. This is...

2017

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Domaine Dugat-PyMazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Romanée-Conti Grand Cru Monopole, Burgundy, France, 2017

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Romanée-Conti is, as ever, a unique expression of the vineyard. It is both more approachable and more powerful than La Tâche. There is a similar...

2017

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Domaine de la Romanée-ContiRomanée-Conti Grand Cru Monopole

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Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat, Richebourg Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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This 0.29ha parcel was planted (or replanted) in two stages - the 1930s and 1978 - so it has a high average age but plenty...

2017

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Domaine Hudelot-NoëllatRichebourg Grand Cru

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Domaine Dugat-Py, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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Three parcels aged between 50 and 90 years old provide the fruit for this exceptional grand cru red. Fresh, chalky and very complex, it's focussed,...

2017

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Domaine Dugat-PyMazis-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Denis Mortet, Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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It's a close-run thing, but this is even better than the Mazis in 2017, made with what Arnaud Mortet says are some of the most...

2017

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Domaine Denis MortetChambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Georges Roumier, Musigny Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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It's only 0.0996 hectares,' says Christophe Roumier of his parcel of Musigny, 'but I'm lucky to have some at all.' We are fortunate too because...

2017

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Domaine Georges RoumierMusigny Grand Cru

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Denis Bachelet, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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The domaine's two parcels, covering 0.44ha in all, are both in what is known locally as Charmes-Charmes, right on the edge of Mazoyères. Denis Bachelet's...

2017

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Denis BacheletCharmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru Clos-St-Jacques, Burgundy, France, 2017

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The Fourriers are one of only five owners of this superb premier cru, with a 0.89ha parcel that was planted in 1910. This is a...

2017

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Domaine FourrierGevrey-Chambertin

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Domaine Dujac, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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The average age of the Seysses' 1.95ha holdings in the Clos de la Roche are slightly older than those of neighbouring Clos St-Denis. Using fruit...

2017

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Domaine DujacClos de la Roche Grand Cru

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Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Romanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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Although the colour is deceptively light, aromas pour from the glass. Aubert de Villaine finds it 'joyous, pleasant and gay', yet comments on its 'monastic...

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Domaine de la Romanée-ContiRomanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru

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Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, La Tâche Grand Cru Monopole, Burgundy, France, 2017

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The La Tâche marks a departure from the wines in this tasting. It is noticeably darker, a bit less forward aromatically and much richer. There...

2017

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Domaine de la Romanée-ContiLa Tâche Grand Cru Monopole

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Domaine Jean Grivot, Richebourg Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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For the third vintage in a row, this 0.32ha plot, ranging in age between 60 and 80 years, has produced the best wine at the...

2017

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Domaine Jean GrivotRichebourg Grand Cru

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, La Romanée Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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If you own one of only five monopole grands crus in Burgundy, with vines that are more than 100 years old in some cases, you'd...

2017

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Domaine du Comte Liger-BelairLa Romanée Grand Cru

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Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat, Romanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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This 1920 parcel is situated in the northern part of the Romanée-St-Vivant grand cru, very close to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti's holdings - and it's...

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Domaine Hudelot-NoëllatRomanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru

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Domaine JJ Confuron, Romanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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This excellent Premeaux-based family domaine is not as famous as it should be. The Meuniers' old-vine parcel of 0.5ha is one of the very best...

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Domaine JJ ConfuronRomanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru

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Domaine Robert Groffier, Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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Sand, clay and limestone soils make up the terroir of this 1ha parcel on the Chambolle side of the grand cru. The vines may be...

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Domaine Robert GroffierBonnes-Mares Grand Cru

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Domaine Georges Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny, 1er Cru Les Amoureuses, Burgundy, France, 2017

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Back to normal yields in 2017, after a 50%, frost-related drop in 2016. This is a hauntingly aromatic expression of Les Amoureuses, sourced from a...

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Domaine Georges RoumierChambolle-Musigny

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Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, Chambolle-Musigny, 1er Cru Les Amoureuses, Burgundy, France, 2017

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One of the best Chambolle premiers crus of the vintage, this is another brilliant 2017 from François Millet. It's intensely coloured, with remarkable purity, focus,...

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Domaine Comte Georges de VogüéChambolle-Musigny

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Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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The de Vogüé Bonnes Mares comes from a sizeable 2.7ha on red clay soils and is always the most structured and ‘masculine’ of the domaine's...

2017

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Domaine Comte Georges de VogüéBonnes-Mares Grand Cru

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Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Musigny Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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This excellent parcel of Musigny extends to 0.2ha and is planted with 5 to 60-year-old vines. Effortlessly handling its 100% new wood, it's a precise,...

2017

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Domaine Drouhin-LarozeMusigny Grand Cru

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Domaine Fourrier, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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Its name may or may not have something to do with the fact that this was (allegedly) once a field of cherries, but there's no...

2017

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Domaine FourrierGriotte-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Armand Rousseau, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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It may have something to do with the cooler site, or the high percentage of limestone in the soils, but this is the freshest and...

2017

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Domaine Armand RousseauRuchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Fourrier, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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The cooler slope of Latricières, close to the forest and receiving 20 minutes less sunshine a day than Charmes-Chambertin, has produced one of Jean-Marie Fourrier's...

2017

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Domaine FourrierLatricières-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Fourrier, Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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Like his négociant Latricières-Chambertin, Jean-Marie Fourrier's Chambertin is aged in 20% new wood. It's another superb old-vine bottling that's everything a Chambertin should be, even...

2017

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Domaine FourrierChambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Georges Roumier, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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Pithy, zesty and refined, this is a classically elegant Ruchottes from one of the Côte d'Or's greatest winemakers, sourced from a 0.53ha block that was...

2017

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Domaine Georges RoumierRuchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Faiveley, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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From a cool, stony parcel that's influenced by the Combe Grisard, this is the pick of the Faiveley grands crus in 2017, making the best...

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Domaine FaiveleyLatricières-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Dujac, Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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Now a well-established part of the Dujac range, this was first made in 2005 and comes from a single parcel of 0.29ha. If you're a...

2017

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Domaine DujacChambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Robert Groffier, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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All the hundreds apply here: whole bunches, new wood and the age of the parcel. Built to last, this is a brilliant wine from Nicolas...

2017

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Domaine Robert GroffierChambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

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Domaine Dugat-Py, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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The Dugat-Py family have nearly 1ha of Charmes-Chambertin, divided two-thirds to one between Charmes itself and Mazoyères. Picked early, this is a serious, textured, wild-herb-scented...

2017

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Domaine Dugat-PyCharmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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Latricières is one of the outstanding sites of the 2017 vintage, and this is my pick of the Drouhins' grands crus this year, partly because...

2017

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Domaine Drouhin-LarozeLatricières-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Duroché, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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Tiny, tiny, tiny. This parcel runs to all of 0.019ha and produced just 84 litres of wine in 2017, which means there's not a lot...

2017

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Domaine DurochéGriotte-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Domaine Denis Mortet, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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Like the domaine's Bonnes Mares parcel, this 0.25ha block used to belong to Domaine Newman, but has hit even greater heights under the hand of...

2017

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Domaine Denis MortetMazis-Chambertin Grand Cru

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Olivier Bernstein, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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Olivier Bernstein uses 80% whole bunches as well as more customary 100% new oak on this fine Clos de Bèze from a 0.3ha parcel. Big,...

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Olivier BernsteinChambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

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Tim Atkin MW
Decanter Premium, Decanter Magazine, Burgundy Expert

Tim Atkin is an award-winning wine journalist, author, broadcaster, competition judge and photographer. He joined Decanter as a contributing editor in 2018, specialising in Burgundy.

Aside from Decanter, he writes for an array of publications, including Harpers, The Drinks Business and Imbibe, plus his own website, TimAtkin.com.

Alongside Oz Clarke and Olly Smith, he is one of the Three Wine Men, who organise wine tasting events across the UK.

He has won over 30 awards for his work in journalism and photography. Notably, in 2018 he won his sixth Roederer Award as Online Communicator of the Year.