Premium English sparkling wine to try this summer
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Susie Barrie MW picks out her top 15 English sparkling wines to see you through the summer...
2017 was a significant year for the UK wine industry: a million vines were planted, a new competition for its wines was launched, and the WineGB organization was formally announced.
One of the first events for the newly formed WineGB was the annual trade tasting held in April, where there was a palpable buzz of excitement in the air. There were also more wines than ever, with over 200 in 2018 compared to just 68 back in 2002.
Several of my English sparkling wine recommendations below are from this tasting, with the remainder coming from other recent tastings and vineyard visits earlier this year, when I was researching a new book. The list could have been two or even three times as long, but I’ve tried to limit myself mostly to wines from brand new projects, new cuvées from more established producers, and older wines that are at their peak of drinkability.
With summer on the way and a royal wedding to celebrate, these recommendations are intended to provide a useful update on what to buy and drink over the coming months, whatever the occasion. If you are looking for traditional method sparkling wines to rival Champagne, but with their own distinct character – typically orchard fruits, chalky minerality and mouthwatering acidity – then this is the place to be.
English sparkling wine: facts & figures
- Total UK vineyard area in 2017 was approximately 2,275ha
- Plantings have tripled since 2004, when they covered just 761ha
- Pinot Noir and Chardonnay accounted for just 6% of plantings in 1990, but now represent over half of the national vineyard area
- Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier accounted for 71.2% of new plantings in 2017
Approximately 68% of all UK wine production in 2017 was sparkling wine
Sources: Wine Standards Branch (WSB), WineGB, Stephen Skelton, author’s own research
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Sparkling wine remains the UK’s greatest strength, accounting for two-thirds of the 5 million bottles produced annually. Champagne varieties represented 71% of all plantings in 2017, and with Champagne sales slumping by 11% last year, this is surely the moment to step into the limelight.
French winemaker Eric Monnin, of Henners in East Sussex, describes the UK as ‘the new New World’, adding that ‘I never thought I’d be making wine in England, but it’s exciting, with huge potential.’
Vintages to drink
Wines from the leaner 2013 vintage are showing particularly well at the moment, as are those from great years such as 2009 and 2011. What is also clear from some of the older bottles on the market is that the best of these wines can age beautifully, as evidenced by the spectacular magnum of 2003 Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs I tasted recently.
But vintages are rarely homogenous across the UK, and hanging your hat on a certain year is not necessarily wise. In addition, there is a growing trend towards multi-vintage wines, to excellent effect.
Susie’s top English sparkling wines:
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Sugrue Pierre, Cuvée Dr Brendan O'Regan, South Downs, England, United Kingdom

Rich and toasty aromas are accompanied by some serious depth, weight and texture on the palate. It has attractive brioche and mineral notes, the ripeness and flesh making this vinous fizz suitable for food. Impressive acidity gives balance and frames the wine well. Youthful and powerful, with a long, saline finish.
EnglandUnited Kingdom
Sugrue PierreSouth Downs
Hattingley Valley, King's Cuvée, Hampshire, England, United Kingdom, 2013

This recent release of Hattingley’s top cuvée is a bold and compelling wine. A barrel-fermented blend of 70% Chardonnay with 30% Pinot Noir, it has spent 30 months on its lees. The taste is like warm buttered toast spread with tangy lemon curd, while the finish is long, focussed and satisfying. Still in the flush of youth, it has undoubted hidden depths and needs time to evolve.
2013
EnglandUnited Kingdom
Hattingley ValleyHampshire
Smith & Evans, Trilogy One, Somerset, England, United Kingdom
Guy Smith and Laura Evans first planted their 1.1ha Higher Plot in 2008, and this is a multi-vintage blend of the first three harvests. Made with no sulphur and no sugar, it is challenging to taste but extraordinarily rewarding too. From its deep golden colour to its aromas of bruised red apple, honey, spice and roasted hazelnuts, it's a thrillingly complex, edgy and fascinating mouthful of fizz.
EnglandUnited Kingdom
Smith & EvansSomerset
Gusbourne Estate, Blanc de Blancs, Kent, England, United Kingdom, 2013

Oz Clarke: Full and dry, with a telling streak of mineral stoniness softened by creamy hazelnut which will increase with age. Sarah Jane Evans: Clean, punchy delivery, with vibrant and thrilling freshness. Finely balanced. The finish is tight, but promises well with time. Tina Gellie: Ripe mango, yellow apple and floral notes. Zingy and fresh, with an elegant finish. Recommended by Stephen Skelton MW
2013
EnglandUnited Kingdom
Gusbourne EstateKent
Exton Park, Blanc de Blancs, Hampshire, England, United Kingdom, 2011

From a terroir that closely matches that of Champagne, this also matches the flavour characteristics of some of the region's better examples. Beautiful floral notes on the nose, and even some grapefruit. On the palate it has peppery, spicy nutmeg notes with a crisp, mineral character, and a long, refreshing finish.
2011
EnglandUnited Kingdom
Exton ParkHampshire
Coates & Seely, La Perfide Blanc de Blancs Britagne, Hampshire, England, United Kingdom, 2009

A lovely fizz with fine, well-defined acidity that works as a counterpoint to the rich, bready notes on the palate. Savoury leesy, spicy notes and dried apricot fruit add extra interest and pleasure. The finish is long with a salty iodine tang.
2009
EnglandUnited Kingdom
Coates & SeelyHampshire
Wiston Estate, Blanc de Noirs, West Sussex, England, United Kingdom, 2010

<p>This 6.5-hectare vineyard in the South Downs of West Sussex was planted in 2006. The base wine of this hugely complex bubbly was kept on its lees for nine months, then kept on bottle lees for five years. Aromas are of cinnamon-infused lemon cream, with honey-almond praline and strawberry-field fragrance. The palate is rich, honeyed and creamy, yet freshly cut through with laser-sharp spines of acidity. Peaches, strawberries and cream, nutmeg and lemon syllabub flavours emerge, full, robust, concentrated and refreshing, framed around a finely-textured mousse.</p>
2010
EnglandUnited Kingdom
Wiston EstateWest Sussex
Nyetimber, Rosé, West Sussex, England, United Kingdom

A beautifully-crafted Chardonnay-based rosé fizz, balancing moreish richness with elegant florality and red fruit crunchiness. Redcurrant, red cherry and wild strawberry are lined with star anise, fennel seed, and rose petals. Soft yet lively mousse, infused with lavender oil. Buttery persistent nuances on the back palate.
EnglandUnited Kingdom
NyetimberWest Sussex
Breaky Bottom, Cuvée Gerard Hoffnung, Sussex, England, United Kingdom, 2009

Very perfumed with white flowers and creamy notes. The palate is nicely balanced with some crunchy apples to crisp up the buttery character. A rich and distinctive wine whose age has added some great complexity. Impressive lengthy finish.
2009
EnglandUnited Kingdom
Breaky BottomSussex
Greyfriars Vineyard, Cuvée Royale, Surrey, England, United Kingdom, 2015

Launched to coincide with the royal nuptials, this new special cuvée in individually numbered bottles is a 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, fermented and aged in old oak with 24 months on its lees. Full of tangy lemon and white peach fruit, it is also spicy and energetic, with a lovely juicy finish. Given its breeding and youth, it will need time to fully evolve, so I’d suggest tucking it away for the first anniversary rather than rushing to pop the cork too soon.
2015
EnglandUnited Kingdom
Greyfriars VineyardSurrey
Black Chalk, Wild Rose, Hampshire, England, United Kingdom, 2015

Talented Hattingley Valley winemaker Jacob Leadley has just released the first two wines from his side project, Black Chalk. He is a particular fan of the bright fruit and creamy texture Meunier gives when grown in the UK, and this Meunier-dominant rosé, with fruit sourced from Hampshire, is delightfully pure and fresh, showing lifted flavours of wild strawberries, cherries and a hint of bready autolysis. Having also tasted a sneak preview of the 2016s, I can confirm this is a seriously exciting project and one to watch.
2015
EnglandUnited Kingdom
Black ChalkHampshire
Harrow & Hope, Blanc de Noirs, Buckinghamshire, England, United Kingdom, 2013

The flagship wine from Henry and Kaye Laithwaite’s flint-strewn vineyard near Marlow, this is a delightfully characterful blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier that has spent three years on its lees. There is a gentle rusticity to the bruised red apple fruit and spice flavours, and a lovely freshness and energy on the finish. The most impressive wine so far from this estate.
2013
EnglandUnited Kingdom
Harrow & HopeBuckinghamshire
Hoffmann & Rathbone, Blanc de Blancs, Sussex, England, United Kingdom, 2011

If there were an award for stylish packaging, Hoffmann and Rathbone’s beautifully presented bottles would win hands down. The wines themselves tend towards a rich style, and this is no exception. Partially barrel-fermented with 60 months ageing on its lees, it is savoury and smoky with a creamy texture and a very typically English mouthwatering acidity.
2011
EnglandUnited Kingdom
Hoffmann & RathboneSussex
Rathfinny, Blanc de Blancs, Sussex, England, United Kingdom, 2014

Was ever an English wine launch more anticipated than that of the first sparkling wines from Mark and Sarah Driver’s hugely ambitious Sussex project? Their 2015 Rosé and this 2014 Blanc de Blancs were first revealed in April, and both are well made and promising, with the Blanc de Blancs richer than I’d have expected but showing attractive greengage and fresh bread flavours. A Blanc de Noirs and Classic Cuvée will follow.
2014
EnglandUnited Kingdom
RathfinnySussex
Forty Hall Vineyard, Brut, London, England, United Kingdom, 2015

A refreshing and elegant blend of the three Champagne varieties, this is a delightfully fruity, juicy and engaging fizz- all the more so when you discover that it's part of a not-for-profit community project offering ecotherapy to its staff of volunteer workers. The vineyard is organic and the aim is to produce enough bottles to allow the estate to run grant-free.
2015
EnglandUnited Kingdom
Forty Hall VineyardLondon

Susie Barrie MW is a wine writer and broadcaster who regularly appears on Saturday Kitchen, Daily Cooks and Great Food Live. She has also spoken on BBC Radio Two, LBC Radio and BBC Radio Scotland. As an author, she has penned Mitchell Beazley's Wine Made Easy 'Champagne and Sparkling Wines', as well as Discovering Wine Country - Northern Spain. Aside from Decanter, she contributes to The Sunday Times Magazine. She gives lectures and judges international wine competitions. Alongside her husband, Peter Richard MW, she runs the Winchester Wine School. They have their own website, susieandpeter.com.