Vineyards in Pfalz. Credit: VDP by Peter Bender Top value grosses gewächs
Vineyards in Pfalz.
(Image credit: VDP by Peter Bender)

The Große Gewächs (GG) of the VDP – an association of 200 of Germany’s leading wineries – represents the highest quality wine made in Germany today.

These are the finest dry wines made from the country’s top-ranked vineyards made to stringent regulations.

These are only the basic requirements, without even considering the experience, commitment and expertise of the winemakers behind these wines.

All of this comes at a price: the average GG costs around €49 per bottle. However, wines from some estates command several hundred euros per bottle and are sold exclusively by subscription to a loyal customer base.

Risk versus reward

The figures on a GG’s price tag can therefore be viewed from two perspectives – as a price or as a value. The latter increases with a winery’s reputation, its image and the loyalty of customers who secure their allocation year after year.

People tend to stick with what they know and avoid risk, and many are willing to pay a premium for that reassurance.

At the same time, those who have the courage to try something new are often rewarded.

Many VDP members produce wines that remain undervalued, particularly in relation to their quality and price. A number of family-run estates have recently passed into the hands of a new generation whose education and international experience are bringing fresh momentum to these wineries – though this still needs to be recognised by consumers and critics alike.

One example is Weingut Kranz in the Pfalz, where son Xaver has been working alongside his father Boris since 2023.

It would be presumptuous to speak of second-tier wineries. If anything, that perception applies more to visibility than to quality. Sebastian Schäfer of Weingut Joh. Bapt. Schäfer in the Nahe, for instance, is naturally reserved and takes a discreet approach to marketing.

Yet in Wiesbaden – where the annual GG release tasting is held – he has once again demonstrated that his dry GG wines rank among the finest, even if they are not among the most expensive.

Here are five GGs that won’t break the bank yet promise a richly rewarding tasting experience.


Five great value Grosses Gewächs to try


Bischel, Hundertgulden Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Rheinhessen, Germany, 2024

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It is a modern interpretation of Riesling, showing a touch of reduction expressed as notes of gunpowder, layered over a compact strand of candied lemon peel, lemon balm, lemongrass and mint. There is no room for kitsch here – the wine gets straight to the point, without fuss and demands attention.

2024

RheinhessenGermany

BischelGrosses Gewächs

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Joh. Bapt. Schäfer, Goldloch Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Nahe, Germany, 2024

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Sebastian Schäfer towers over most people in terms of height – perhaps explaining why he likes to stay in the background. Yet year after year, his Rieslings are among the best from the Nahe region – very classic in style, very beautiful and always easy to understand. The wine from the Goldloch – a south-facing site with loamy soil and quartzite – brings notes of ripe peach and lemon jelly to the fore, backed by a concentrated power that ensures assertiveness and length.

2024

NaheGermany

Joh. Bapt. SchäferGrosses Gewächs

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Kranz, Kalmit Pinot Blanc, Grosses Gewächs, Pfalz, Germany, 2024

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The Pinot Blanc from Boris and Xaver Kranz takes full advantage of the vintage and essentially mirrors the Chardonnay, showing notes of yellow apple and orange blossom combined with the spice of wood – toasted, nutty and smoky. The individual components are still vying for dominance, as the wine is very young and almost adolescent. However, its inner strength, and therefore its potential for development, are clearly discernible.

2024

PfalzGermany

KranzGrosses Gewächs

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Georg Mosbacher, Freundstück Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Pfalz, Germany, 2024

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A Riesling that is very typical of the winery. Sabine Mosbacher and her husband Jürgen Düringer are all about fruit – and Riesling has a lot to offer in this regard. Their wine from the Freundstück vineyard is fermented spontaneously in stainless steel tanks to better emphasise the notes of peach, citrus and grapefruit, accompanied by the tart freshness of lemon balm – all clear, cool and precise. The taut acidity further underscores the pure and open character.

2024

PfalzGermany

Georg MosbacherGrosses Gewächs

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Knewitz, Hundertgulden Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Rheinhessen, Germany, 2024

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The Hundertgulden from Knewitz shows that the winemaker plays just as big a role in shaping the personality of a wine as its origin. Same location, same grape variety – yet a different type of wine from the one made by Bischel: more serious, tighter, more mature in appearance, and at the same time more edgy. A distinctive saltiness on the finish echoes the limestone of the vineyard, which rises just behind the winery.

2024

RheinhessenGermany

KnewitzGrosses Gewächs

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Caro Maurer MW
DWWA 2020 Regional Chair for South & Eastern Mediterranean
In 2011 Caro Maurer MW became the first female Master of Wine from the German-speaking countries. She is a Regional Chair of Decanter World Wine Awards.