Blaufränkisch across Europe: Panel tasting results

Caroline Gilby MW, Stefan Neumann MS and Wieteke Teppema tasted 87 wines, with 6 Outstanding and 36 Highly recommended

Blaufränkisch: Panel tasting scores

87 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 6

Highly recommended 38

Recommended 30

Commended 13

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release still, dry red wines made in Europe from Blaufränkisch (single variety or blended, but Blaufränkisch must be 50% or more of the blend)

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our Blaufränkisch panel tasting

Terroir transmitter

This great central European red grape often goes under the radar thanks to its multiple names.

Austria has led the way in showcasing Blaufränkisch, but Hungary, where it’s called Kékfrankos, is by far the biggest grower (6,983ha, compared to Austria’s 2,550ha, according to the countries’ most recent annual reports to July 2024) and is catching up rapidly.

These two nations provided most of the entries for this tasting, along with a handful from Germany (as Lemberger), Slovakia (Frankovka) and Romania.

Blaufränkisch is increasingly showing its mettle as an exciting, food-friendly grape capable of producing delicious, ageworthy wines that can reflect place.

Wieteke Teppema explained: ‘It has the capacity to show transparency of terroir, it can get lovely minerality and not every indigenous variety can do this. Blaufränkisch is edging into a territory where it can be considered a top variety.’

Stefan Neumann MS was ‘impressed that it can be a fantastic solo player with site-specific expression’. For him, ‘a standout was the Eger and Balaton flight, where oak is so well managed – a tricky thing with Blaufränkisch to allow the fruit to shine’.

Neumann also noted Austria’s Neusiedlersee and Leithaberg regions as offering ‘the right poise of elegance and not trying to over-extract’, adding: ‘Some of the best wines had age but hadn’t lost fruit.’

A fine dancing partner

The judges were also impressed by the role of Kékfrankos in blends (it’s the key grape in Hungary’s PDO Bikavér, of which there are five examples among the Highly recommendeds here).

Teppema enjoyed ‘the combination of international grapes with Kékfrankos – a lovely complement to the structure and mid-palate in those blends’.

Compared to Sangiovese/Brunello in Tuscany, Neumann found that the wines typically showed: ‘Red and sour cherry, black fruit, with a floral perfume and, in some higher crus, a meaty iodine character.’

Teppema summed up: ‘From a UK on-trade perspective, there’s a lot I’d be happy to list and share with guests.

What to eat with Blaufränkisch, by Fiona Beckett

The striking thing about many of the top-scoring wines in this tasting is that they’re from older vintages, so we’re looking for dishes that pair well with mature wines.

That generally means simple roast meats rather than spicy casseroles, although the more robust, earthy, structured and oak-influenced style of Kékfrankos would work well with a classic goulash.

Otherwise, think well-aged beef, venison, even wild boar, or roast duck or goose – especially with red cabbage – making them, perhaps, wines that would work better in autumn than high summer.

Yet there are lighter styles of Blaufränkisch and Kékfrankos that would work with summery foods: cold meats such as salami and smoked ham, grilled sausages (it’s hard not to think of barbecuing at this time of year), kebabs and koftas.

Both Blaufränkisch and Kékfrankos can handle a bit of spice. More traditional, full-blooded Egri Bikavér (Bull’s Blood) blends are probably best saved – and maybe incorporated in – hearty winter stews or robust dishes such as beef short rib and braised ox cheek.

See all notes and scores from the Blaufränkisch panel tasting

Blaufränkisch panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Caroline Gilby MW is an awarded author, speaker and consultant with a passion for the wines of the Balkans, Central and Eastern Europe and the Black Sea. She is a DWWA joint Regional Chair in multiple categories

Stefan Neumann MS is a Master Sommelier who runs his own wine consultancy, having spent many years working in the world of Michelin-starred restaurants. Born close to Austria’s Wachau region, he is the DWWA Regional Chair for Austria and Switzerland

Wieteke Teppema is director of wine for Brown’s Hotel in London. A wine buyer and competition judge, including for the DWWA, her career spans top Michelin-starred restaurants and specialist wine importers

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