Aegean island whites: Panel tasting results

Lenka Sedlackova MW, Ana Jackson MW and Terry Kandylis tasted 59 wines, with 2 Highly recommended and 21 Recommended

Aegean island whites: Panel tasting scores

59 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 2

Highly recommended 21

Recommended 35

Commended 1

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release still whites, dry and sweet, made using indigenous varieties only, from any island within the Aegean sea

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the Aegean island whites panel tasting

History meets modernity

The Aegean islands, between the Greek mainland and Turkey to the east, are a historical treasure trove of ancient and rare grape varieties, some of which were referenced as far back as Minoan (Dafni) and Homeric (Limnio) times.

This exceptional tasting showcased the remarkable diversity and high quality of many of these indigenous grapes.

The overall quality was high: something I find with Greek whites in general.

Importantly, winemakers are now embracing the distinct characteristics of these Greek native varieties.

Where oak and other winemaking techniques once overshadowed the grapes’ identities, a more restrained, hands-off approach is now emerging.

Characterful rather than technical styles were the clear winners of this tasting.

As Ana Jackson MW remarked: ‘Lesser-known Greek grape varieties really shone. These wines showed real character and also lower alcohols, which is very much on trend.’

The flagship grape still reigns?

Unsurprisingly, entries were dominated by Assyrtiko, Greece’s most renowned grape. It is widely planted and expresses itself in many styles.

Even so, Santorini continues to set the standard for Assyrtiko, producing benchmark examples – even in difficult vintages.

As Terry Kandylis observed: ‘The past few vintages in Santorini were very challenging, and this was reflected in the wines. I liked the fact that the highest-scoring wine is an Assyrtiko blend.

‘In my opinion, the other grapes help tame Assyrtiko’s intense character and make the wine more approachable.’

The tasting also emphasised that Vidiano from Crete firmly deserves its place among Greece’s most exciting – and versatile – white grapes.

Our second-highest scoring wine was an acacia-aged Vidiano, notable for its purity, aromatic finesse and balance.

Aegean island whites are certainly worth seeking out. Their combination of intriguing flavour profiles, saline acidity and moderate alcohol content offers an appealing and modern interpretation of these ancient grape varieties.

What to eat with Aegean island whites, by Fiona Beckett

We tend to think mainly of France in terms of terroir-based food and wine pairings, but Greek wines are just as well suited to the country’s foods.

Dry white wines dominate on the islands and go brilliantly with their simple seafood-and vegetable-based cooking.

The best known example is Assyrtiko, which, when young, sharp and saline, is perfectly suited to raw or grilled seafood such as calamari, but when serious and weighty – as it often is on Santorini – is an ideal foil for lobster or whole, wood-roasted fish.

Greek whites such as Assyrtiko and Crete’s Vidiano also work well with Greek meze (the small sharing plates that kick off a meal), but then they would also work with Mexican food such as fish tacos and guacamole, or with garlicky prawns.

Vidiano is also great with spanakopita and other dishes based on horta (the Greek word for greens).

You can also drink more serious, structured island whites with lamb (just think how it’s often seasoned with lemon in Greece), especially if cooked over coals, which makes them a great choice.

See all notes and scores from our Aegean island whites panel tasting

Aegean island whites panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Lenka Sedlackova MW is head of brand management at Bancroft Wines. She has a particular passion for Greek wines, is a DWWA Senior Judge and is on the judging panel for the Great Greek Wines project

Ana Jackson MW is head of wine business development for Amathus Drinks and was formerly head buyer at Oddbins for more than 12 years. She is keen to promote less-familiar wine categories and has been a DWWA judge since 2011

Terry Kandylis is group head sommelier at Noble Rot in London, and the DWWA Regional Chair for Greece, Cyprus & Malta. In 2015, he earned the title of Best Sommelier in Greece, then won Moët UK Sommelier of the Year in 2016

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