Greek legend: Why Assyrtiko has won its place in the white wine pantheon

Assyrtiko, a robust and versatile grape, has firmly established itself as a symbol of Greek viticulture and has recently become one of the most talked-about varieties in white wine, drawing comparisons to Hungary’s esteemed Furmint.

With its origins on the Aegean island of Santorini, the cultivation of Assyrtiko has spread across Greece, and the exciting wines that have resulted demonstrate the grape’s adaptability to different climates and terroirs.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 18 thrilling Greek Assyrtiko

Within Greece, the expression of Assyrtiko varies significantly between the mainland and its island of origin. Mainland vineyards typically produce a fruitier, less mineral-intense style than those found on Santorini.

It’s here that Assyrtiko finds its most pronounced expression, the island’s volcanic soils enriching the grape with a distinctive smoky minerality, salinity and depth.

The old, ungrafted vines found in the island’s vineyards are particularly noteworthy, typically trained in a characteristic basket-shaped system known as kouloura to protect them from harsh winds and intense sun.

Old vines, new ideas

On Santorini, innovative winemaking techniques are being used to enhance the natural qualities of Assyrtiko. Extended ageing on the lees adds richness and complexity, resulting in wines with greater body and a creamy texture.

The use of wild yeasts for fermentation introduces unique, indigenous flavours and aromas, further connecting the wines to their specific locale. Microvinification of selected parcels from centenarian vines allows winemakers to explore the full potential of these ancient vineyards, often producing exceptionally concentrated and characterful wines.

Additionally, some winemakers are experimenting with amphorae, which provide a distinctive oxidative environment that influences the wines’ texture and flavour.

Food pairing par excellence

Assyrtiko’s high acidity and robust structure give it exceptional ageability, with the potential to develop complex flavours over time. And this grape is not only confined to producing dry white wines but is also used to create sparkling, sweet and even orange wines, highlighting its wide-ranging potential.

That high acidity and the strong minerality also make Assyrtiko an excellent partner for a wide variety of dishes. Wines made from the grape pair splendidly with raw seafood, enhancing the delicate flavours of oysters and sushi, while their citrussy profile complements dishes such as steamed mussels with lemongrass.

Assyrtiko’s affinity for saffron-infused recipes, such as paella or rich stews, further demonstrates its versatility when it comes to food pairings.

More than just a grape, Assyrtiko is a reflection of Greece’s winemaking heritage and a symbol of its potential for future innovation. As it continues to gain international recognition, Assyrtiko represents not only the excellence of Greek wine but also the dynamic diversity of global white wine trends.

The finest of Greek Assyrtiko to seek out:

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