St-Joseph: Revisiting 2022 in bottle
Matt Walls takes another look at the hot and dry 2022 vintage in St-Joseph now that the wines are in bottle, and selects 35 of his favourites.
When it comes to extreme vintages, I’m pretty circumspect. I was never a great fan of wines from 2003, which was an exceptionally hot and dry year.
But a recent tasting of 50 2022 St-Josephs painted a picture of a surprisingly strong vintage despite an even more severe growing season than 2003.
In 2003, winemakers didn’t know how to react to the extreme heat. But 2022 came after a succession of roasting years, during which winemakers honed their methods.
This time, they were ready.
Scroll down for notes and scores for 2022 St-Joseph in bottle
Record-breaking extremes
To describe the weather as extreme in 2022 is no exaggeration. A weather station in Orange recorded the hottest May on record. It counted 37 days when temperatures reached over 35°C – only 2003 saw more.
And it wasn’t just the days that were sweltering; average nighttime temperatures were the hottest ever recorded.
It was also exceptionally dry. Between 15 October 2021 and 1 September 2022, only 300mm of rain was recorded – compared to 600mm in a normal year.
In summary, between budbreak and harvest, 2022 was the hottest, driest year in the Rhône since records began in 1950.
Easy for growers
Conditions like this were felt throughout the Rhône Valley, and St-Joseph was no different. For winemakers, it made for a relaxed year.
‘It was easy to manage in the vineyard,’ says Ludovic Izerable of Domaine Lionnet, who has vineyards in the southern part of the appellation near Cornas.
Graeme Bott of Domaine Bott, located at the northern end of St-Joseph, agreed.
‘There was no water for downy mildew to be an issue and it was too hot for powdery mildew to be an issue either,’ he says, ‘Work overall in the vineyards was quite straightforward and it was one of the years which required a lower amount of manpower due to the slower development of the vines.’
Tough on vines
The harsh conditions were tough on the vines, however. Growth was stunted due to the heat and drought, and young vines struggled.
Damien Brisset, head winemaker at Ferraton, says, ‘we had to adapt by practicing minimalist viticulture – no leaf plucking, no trimming the canopy – and also by regulating the crop load in some plots through green harvesting, to limit blockages in ripening during August and September.’
Winemakers also had to modify the way they worked in the cellar.
‘We chose to use a higher than normal percentage of whole bunches in the reds and worked the wines with just one short pump over per day,’ says Bott.
Brisset also opted for, ‘the gentlest possible extractions’.
Powerful reds
When I tasted the 2022 red St-Josephs from barrel, there was significant stylistic variation – most had the power you would expect from such a year, but some were surprisingly lean due to blockages in ripening due to heat and drought.
After some time in bottle, this is still the case; some are light, aromatic and best drunk young. But most are in the other camp – powerful, densely tannic, darkly fruited.
So it’s a vintage with something for everyone.
Inevitably, some of the wines were less exciting. This was usually down to uneven or blocked ripening resulting in a green, bitter streak or a lack of depth. Some were very reductive; others were over-oaked.
But largely, 2022 is a very good vintage for St-Joseph reds – one with energy, intensity and serious tannic structure.
Intense whites
The whites broadly share this drive and concentration, with plenty of extract and salinity. Oak can help accentuate this, but it wasn’t always needed in 2022 thanks to the natural intensity of the fruit.
In hot vintages, whites can be prone to flabbiness – such as in 2018. But sometimes the effect is to accentuate their intensity and salinity, such as 2010 and 2017 – and 2022.
Bott was happy with both colours. ‘It is a very good vintage for both whites and reds which is not always the case,’ he says.
‘I think the reason being is that with the heat and lack of rain during the last ripening period the grapes reduced in size and concentrated both sugar and acidity, similar to 2019 in Burgundy, so we actually kept reasonable acidity levels considering the vintage.’
Wines for ageing
After a year or so in bottle, usually I would expect most St-Josephs to be ready to start drinking, but most 2022s need another couple of years in bottle to soften.
They will have unusual longevity too – typically around 10 years, but some will go on to mature and develop for 20. Be aware that the more structured wines are likely to feel quite hard and serious in youth. It’s a vintage that will really blossom in time.
So if you enjoy the smoky complexity of aged northern Rhône Syrah, 2022 St-Joseph will prove a particularly cost effective way of stocking your cellar. Some of the whites will prove deliciously long-lasting too.
‘If we compare statistics, 2022 would be similar to 2003, however it was not at all the same style of wine produced,’ says Bott, ‘much lower alcohol levels and more balanced ripeness.’
In 2003, no one had experienced such heat and drought before, so it caught winemakers by surprise, many of them were still on holiday when they needed to start picking.
In 2022, they were prepared – and the results are so much better.
St-Joseph 2022: The wines to try
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Domaine Benoît Roseau, Sur le Quartz, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
A powerful, grand style of white St-Joseph, large in its proportions, expansive, delicious and very long. A stately white that’s not as oaky as some,...
2022
Domaine Benoît RoseauSt-Joseph
Domaine Lionnet, Pierre Blanche, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
A floral, fresh style with ripe nectarine flavours. There’s no distracting oak, just plentiful powerful fruit. This has volume and salinity, presence and intensity, yet...
2022
Domaine LionnetSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Les Granits, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
This wine has power and intensity teamed with freshness and sufficient acidity, backed up with lovely salty extract. Aromatically it's quite reductive and closed, but...
2022
M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Domaine Bernard Gripa, Le Berceau, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
A wine that’s fresh but mellow in aroma, then yields to a full-bodied, with vanilla and brioche notes from the oak, which also gives a...
2022
Domaine Bernard GripaSt-Joseph
Domaine Bott, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Rich buttery mango and pear aromas lead onto a very full-bodied, rich and generous palate, but it has freshness too. The oak is well integrated,...
2022
Domaine BottSt-Joseph
Domaine Coursodon, Le Paradis Saint-Pierre, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Open, rich and ripe, this is certainly ready to drink. It has good depth of fruit, notably pear with a note of buttered popcorn, and...
2022
Domaine CoursodonSt-Joseph
Domaine Gonon, Les Oliviers, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Daffodil freshness on the nose with musky quince notes. It’s very full and generous in body, its voluptuousness accentuated by its low acidity. The wine...
2022
Domaine GononSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Les Granilites, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Really spicy on the nose, with smart oak work framing the pineapple fruit. It's fairly full-bodied, certainly full-flavoured, but not heavy as it keeps a...
2022
M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Domaine Coursodon, Silice, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Not quite as structured as some, this is very ripe and fruity, with plenty of puppy fat. Lovely ripe, rich mango fruit, this is for...
2022
Domaine CoursodonSt-Joseph
Ferraton Père & Fils, Les Oliviers, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
The only wine of 11 white St-Josephs tasted alongside each other that has notable struck-match reduction. It works, adding some smoky complexity. Very full-bodied and...
2022
Ferraton Père & FilsSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Les Granits, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
This is an intense wine with smoky cassis aromas. On the palate the acidity is balanced, though it's really quite extracted. It shows damson and...
2022
M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Pierre Gaillard, Clos de Cuminaille, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Dark and brooding, with peppery spice, vanilla and smoky bacon notes. This has lovely tannic finesse, great energy, bright acidity and tension. It really grips...
2022
Pierre GaillardSt-Joseph
Domaine Benoît Roseau, Patagone, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
The nose is immediately fresh and appealing, with notes of juniper, hibiscus and rosehip. Light in body, it moves quickly in the mouth, and it’s...
2022
Domaine Benoît RoseauSt-Joseph
Domaine Bott, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Rather faint on the nose, and quite reductive for now, although new leather and ripe blackberry aromas come with air. Then it’s very punchy on...
2022
Domaine BottSt-Joseph
Domaine Laurent Habrard, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Peppery oregano notes on the nose, followed by some weight and fruit richness on the palate. It’s fairly low in alcohol and has good acidity,...
2022
Domaine Laurent HabrardSt-Joseph
Ferraton Père & Fils, Paradis, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Dark and quite insular for now, but this has lovely tannic finesse and freshness, with good acidity. It's concentrated, and has seen quite a bit...
2022
Ferraton Père & FilsSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Le Clos, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
More oak work than most, but on the palate it works well, and it won't dominate by the time this is ready to drink. This...
2022
M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Pierre Gaillard, Les Pierres, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
This is good: a complete, full-bodied wine that’s quite extracted, with plentiful bullish tannins. The oak is forthright, but the wine meets it. It will...
2022
Pierre GaillardSt-Joseph
Delas, Sainte-Epine, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Highly spiced, nutmeg and cinnamon nose. Fairly full-bodied, this is a sweetly ripe and oak-driven style. It’s powerful, with serious drive and quite potent alcohol....
2022
DelasSt-Joseph
Domaine Benoît Roseau, La Ribaude, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Strong juniper and hibiscus notes on the nose, with underlying smoke. It's tight for now, but has real energy and vibrancy. There’s a slight bitter...
2022
Domaine Benoît RoseauSt-Joseph
Domaine Coursodon, Olivaie, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
A structured style of St-Joseph with present tannins, firm acidity and enjoyable concentration. This has good finesse – the tannins are smooth and elegant, the...
2022
Domaine CoursodonSt-Joseph
Domaine Farge, Terroir de Granit, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Quietly fragrant, with bright, zesty berry fruits. This is powerful, with denim-like tannins and firm acidity. There’s a good sense of purity, even though it’s...
2022
Domaine FargeSt-Joseph
Domaine Niero, Bois Prieur, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
A lighter style among the structured 2022s, this is perfumed, fragrant and fresh. It has concentration and depth on the palate, however, with a long,...
2022
Domaine NieroSt-Joseph
E Guigal, Vignes de l'Hospice, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Aromas of earthy blackcurrant, with generous oak spice, cola and clove. It has good acidity and brightness, and no overextraction. An interesting mix between light...
2022
E GuigalSt-Joseph
Emmanuel Darnaud, Lieu-dit La Dardouille, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
With its rich blackberry aromas, this is an enjoyably ripe, full-bodied, powerful expression. It has big grip, big acidity and very ripe fruit, finishing dry....
2022
Emmanuel DarnaudSt-Joseph
Ferraton Père & Fils, Bonneveau, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Dark and brooding currently, this is a little introverted now, but it’s promising. It’s full-bodied, concentrated and powerful, with dense, fairly solid tannins. It's quite...
2022
Ferraton Père & FilsSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Les Granilites, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Seductive fruity aromas with a cheeky lick of oak, which adds some complexity. A touch of meatiness too to the savoury blackberry fruits. There’s a...
2022
M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Delas, François de Tournon, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Violets, blueberries, black cherry and a touch of rubber all on the nose. This is full-bodied for a 2022, the oak is quite prominent on...
2022
DelasSt-Joseph
Domaine Courbis, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Currently quite closed, but you can tell there's an interesting wine hiding away here, waiting for the right moment to unfurl. It’s earthy, flinty and...
2022
Domaine CourbisSt-Joseph
Domaine Courbis, Les Royes, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Fresh and spicy aromatics, there's some graphite notes on the mid-palate, as well as smoke and flint. The acidity is quite cutting. It’s only medium-bodied,...
2022
Domaine CourbisSt-Joseph
Domaine Coursodon, Silice, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Decidedly introverted at the time of tasting, but there's plenty here it’s just all tightly wound for now. Good concentration and tannic load, it's quite...
2022
Domaine CoursodonSt-Joseph
Jeanne Gaillard, La Relève, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Softer and more gentle than many 2022s, this has enjoyably ripe fruit and tannin; the flipside is that the alcohol is a touch warming, accentuating...
2022
Jeanne GaillardSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Deschants, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Fresh blackberry and blackberry jam aromas lead onto a powerful palate that has impressive energy and drive. It’s medium-bodied but the tight tannins make for...
2022
M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Domaine Belle, Les Rivoires, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
The oak work is quite forthright, with strong clove flavours. This power, drive and concentration with freshness underneath, so should repay cellaring. It moves fast...
2022
Domaine BelleSt-Joseph
Famille Ravoire, Olivier Ravoire Oriflamme, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Surprisingly pale in colour. This is really quite open and giving already, feeling quite evolved. It’s light in body, and not terribly concentrated. The oak...
2022
Famille RavoireSt-Joseph
Domaine Benoît Roseau, Sur le Quartz, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
A powerful, grand style of white St-Joseph, large in its proportions, expansive, delicious and very long. A stately white that’s not as oaky as some,...
2022
Domaine Benoît RoseauSt-Joseph
Domaine Lionnet, Pierre Blanche, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
A floral, fresh style with ripe nectarine flavours. There’s no distracting oak, just plentiful powerful fruit. This has volume and salinity, presence and intensity, yet...
2022
Domaine LionnetSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Les Granits, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
This wine has power and intensity teamed with freshness and sufficient acidity, backed up with lovely salty extract. Aromatically it's quite reductive and closed, but...
2022
M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Domaine Bernard Gripa, Le Berceau, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
A wine that’s fresh but mellow in aroma, then yields to a full-bodied, with vanilla and brioche notes from the oak, which also gives a...
2022
Domaine Bernard GripaSt-Joseph
Domaine Bott, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Rich buttery mango and pear aromas lead onto a very full-bodied, rich and generous palate, but it has freshness too. The oak is well integrated,...
2022
Domaine BottSt-Joseph
Domaine Coursodon, Le Paradis Saint-Pierre, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Open, rich and ripe, this is certainly ready to drink. It has good depth of fruit, notably pear with a note of buttered popcorn, and...
2022
Domaine CoursodonSt-Joseph
Domaine Gonon, Les Oliviers, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Daffodil freshness on the nose with musky quince notes. It’s very full and generous in body, its voluptuousness accentuated by its low acidity. The wine...
2022
Domaine GononSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Les Granilites, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Really spicy on the nose, with smart oak work framing the pineapple fruit. It's fairly full-bodied, certainly full-flavoured, but not heavy as it keeps a...
2022
M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Domaine Coursodon, Silice, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Not quite as structured as some, this is very ripe and fruity, with plenty of puppy fat. Lovely ripe, rich mango fruit, this is for...
2022
Domaine CoursodonSt-Joseph
Ferraton Père & Fils, Les Oliviers, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
The only wine of 11 white St-Josephs tasted alongside each other that has notable struck-match reduction. It works, adding some smoky complexity. Very full-bodied and...
2022
Ferraton Père & FilsSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Les Granits, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
This is an intense wine with smoky cassis aromas. On the palate the acidity is balanced, though it's really quite extracted. It shows damson and...
2022
M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Pierre Gaillard, Clos de Cuminaille, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Dark and brooding, with peppery spice, vanilla and smoky bacon notes. This has lovely tannic finesse, great energy, bright acidity and tension. It really grips...
2022
Pierre GaillardSt-Joseph
Domaine Benoît Roseau, Patagone, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
The nose is immediately fresh and appealing, with notes of juniper, hibiscus and rosehip. Light in body, it moves quickly in the mouth, and it’s...
2022
Domaine Benoît RoseauSt-Joseph
Domaine Bott, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Rather faint on the nose, and quite reductive for now, although new leather and ripe blackberry aromas come with air. Then it’s very punchy on...
2022
Domaine BottSt-Joseph
Domaine Laurent Habrard, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Peppery oregano notes on the nose, followed by some weight and fruit richness on the palate. It’s fairly low in alcohol and has good acidity,...
2022
Domaine Laurent HabrardSt-Joseph
Ferraton Père & Fils, Paradis, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Dark and quite insular for now, but this has lovely tannic finesse and freshness, with good acidity. It's concentrated, and has seen quite a bit...
2022
Ferraton Père & FilsSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Le Clos, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
More oak work than most, but on the palate it works well, and it won't dominate by the time this is ready to drink. This...
2022
M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Pierre Gaillard, Les Pierres, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
This is good: a complete, full-bodied wine that’s quite extracted, with plentiful bullish tannins. The oak is forthright, but the wine meets it. It will...
2022
Pierre GaillardSt-Joseph
Delas, Sainte-Epine, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Highly spiced, nutmeg and cinnamon nose. Fairly full-bodied, this is a sweetly ripe and oak-driven style. It’s powerful, with serious drive and quite potent alcohol....
2022
DelasSt-Joseph
Domaine Benoît Roseau, La Ribaude, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Strong juniper and hibiscus notes on the nose, with underlying smoke. It's tight for now, but has real energy and vibrancy. There’s a slight bitter...
2022
Domaine Benoît RoseauSt-Joseph
Domaine Coursodon, Olivaie, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
A structured style of St-Joseph with present tannins, firm acidity and enjoyable concentration. This has good finesse – the tannins are smooth and elegant, the...
2022
Domaine CoursodonSt-Joseph
Domaine Farge, Terroir de Granit, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Quietly fragrant, with bright, zesty berry fruits. This is powerful, with denim-like tannins and firm acidity. There’s a good sense of purity, even though it’s...
2022
Domaine FargeSt-Joseph
Domaine Niero, Bois Prieur, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
A lighter style among the structured 2022s, this is perfumed, fragrant and fresh. It has concentration and depth on the palate, however, with a long,...
2022
Domaine NieroSt-Joseph
E Guigal, Vignes de l'Hospice, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Aromas of earthy blackcurrant, with generous oak spice, cola and clove. It has good acidity and brightness, and no overextraction. An interesting mix between light...
2022
E GuigalSt-Joseph
Emmanuel Darnaud, Lieu-dit La Dardouille, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
With its rich blackberry aromas, this is an enjoyably ripe, full-bodied, powerful expression. It has big grip, big acidity and very ripe fruit, finishing dry....
2022
Emmanuel DarnaudSt-Joseph
Ferraton Père & Fils, Bonneveau, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Dark and brooding currently, this is a little introverted now, but it’s promising. It’s full-bodied, concentrated and powerful, with dense, fairly solid tannins. It's quite...
2022
Ferraton Père & FilsSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Les Granilites, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Seductive fruity aromas with a cheeky lick of oak, which adds some complexity. A touch of meatiness too to the savoury blackberry fruits. There’s a...
2022
M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Delas, François de Tournon, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Violets, blueberries, black cherry and a touch of rubber all on the nose. This is full-bodied for a 2022, the oak is quite prominent on...
2022
DelasSt-Joseph
Domaine Courbis, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Currently quite closed, but you can tell there's an interesting wine hiding away here, waiting for the right moment to unfurl. It’s earthy, flinty and...
2022
Domaine CourbisSt-Joseph
Domaine Courbis, Les Royes, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Fresh and spicy aromatics, there's some graphite notes on the mid-palate, as well as smoke and flint. The acidity is quite cutting. It’s only medium-bodied,...
2022
Domaine CourbisSt-Joseph
Domaine Coursodon, Silice, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Decidedly introverted at the time of tasting, but there's plenty here it’s just all tightly wound for now. Good concentration and tannic load, it's quite...
2022
Domaine CoursodonSt-Joseph
Jeanne Gaillard, La Relève, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Softer and more gentle than many 2022s, this has enjoyably ripe fruit and tannin; the flipside is that the alcohol is a touch warming, accentuating...
2022
Jeanne GaillardSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Deschants, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Fresh blackberry and blackberry jam aromas lead onto a powerful palate that has impressive energy and drive. It’s medium-bodied but the tight tannins make for...
2022
M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Domaine Belle, Les Rivoires, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
The oak work is quite forthright, with strong clove flavours. This power, drive and concentration with freshness underneath, so should repay cellaring. It moves fast...
2022
Domaine BelleSt-Joseph
Famille Ravoire, Olivier Ravoire Oriflamme, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022
Surprisingly pale in colour. This is really quite open and giving already, feeling quite evolved. It’s light in body, and not terribly concentrated. The oak...
2022
Famille RavoireSt-Joseph
