Searching for Syrah: 25 from around the world for Northern Rhône fanatics
Where in the world wines can you find wines that mimic the savoury Syrah of its heartland in the northern Rhône? Matt Walls makes a selection.
One of the Syrah grape variety’s most impressive qualities is its ability to adapt to different countries and climates. It can make anything from fine-boned, feline reds (usually labelled Syrah) to opulent, leonine styles (normally labelled Shiraz) – and does them both brilliantly.
But whatever it’s called, when grown outside its heartland of the northern Rhône in southeastern France, it’s hard to know for sure what you’re going to find in the bottle.
For those who prefer that savoury northern Rhône expression, such uncertainty can be disconcerting; it can be safer to stick to what you know.
But doing so would be a shame, as there are so many brilliant Syrahs from other regions made in an elegant, cool-climate style.
In fact, as a result of climate change, some classic cool-climate aromatic markers – such as black pepper – are now more prevalent outside the Rhône than within it.
Stylistic traits
If I’m in the mood for a northern Rhône Syrah, what I’m really looking for is a wine that leads with non-fruit aromas: herbs, spices, flowers and smoke before the blackberry fruit.
I want finesse, structure and tension – a wine with cheekbones. The opulence and sweet blackcurrant fruit of a typical Shiraz can be delicious, but that’s a different desire; and it works with other kinds of food.
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So what I’ve selected in the following pages are 25 wines that will likely appeal to northern Rhône lovers.
Any comparison doesn’t suggest that producers are copying that region, or that French examples are innately superior – it’s just a useful stylistic yardstick.
Shiraz may be an Australian term, but today some of the finest, most savoury and complex Syrah-styled wines originate from Down Under.
South Africa also has many to choose from; California makes some of the leanest of all. And now there are excellent Syrahs coming from Argentina, Lebanon – even Germany.
I’ve also included three wines made using grape varieties other than Syrah, but these represent the kind of elegant, fresh and savoury wines that Rhône fans enjoy – and that pair with similar dishes.
After all, when I ask myself what I feel like drinking at the close of the day, what really matters is style, not grape.
Matt's favourite Syrahs from around the world
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This is settling into a relaxed state of maturity now at seven years old. Intense red fruit, tomato stalk, bay leaf – clearly whole-bunch fermented....
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By Farr, Shiraz by Farr, Geelong, Victoria, Australia, 2023

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Aromatically quite closed and discreet at this stage, but really vibrant and zesty on the palate. Great grip and intensity, finishing tight and saline. The...
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Ministry Of Clouds, Shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2024

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Waterkloof, Syrah, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2023

Incredibly peppery nose! Black, white and pink – all the peppercorns. Then quite generous on the palate, with expansive ripe fruits and juicy acidity. Slightly...
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Andrew Murray Vineyards, Roasted Slope, Santa Barbara County, California, USA, 2023

Menthol and new leather aromas, very Rhône-like. White pepper and blackberry. It’s medium-bodied, not overly powerful or concentrated, just very well judged and well balanced,...
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Damascene, Syrah, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2024

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Smoky and spicy, with paprika notes, then very full-bodied and concentrated. It’s savoury and not overly sweet, with blackberry fruit and a touch of liquorice....
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Alma Fria, Stolo Vineyard Syrah, Arroyo Grande Valley, San Luis Obispo County, California, USA 2023

Reductive, herbal and smoky on the nose. Only light- to medium-bodied, with raspberry and Lapsang Souchong tea leaf smokiness. Very much a smoky Syrah in...
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Andreas Gsellmann, Astral Blaufränkisch, Burgenland, Austria 2023

Dark brambly fruit, then a broad and juicy palate. Middle weight, with good depth of fruit; fairly mild tannins and acidity. This is a wine...
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Arnot-Roberts, Clary Ranch Syrah, Sonoma Coast, California, USA, 2023

Fresh, graphite nose, with strong thyme and oregano notes. Has more generosity and breadth on the palate than the nose suggests, but still only medium-bodied,...
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El Enemigo, Syrah/Viognier, Mendoza, Argentina, 2022

Wonderful nose – ripe, juicy, complex and savoury, with the same character on the palate. The breadth, concentration and fullness on the palate make it...
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Te Mata, Bullnose Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, 2024

A nice balance of ripe berries, both red and black, and herbal nuances. It's structured, there’s no fear of tannin here, and it's classically Syrah...
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Ziereisen, Jaspis Däublin Syrah, Baden, Germany, 2020

Stemmy, herbal, bloody, precise and floral – a very savoury expression of the grape, and a complex one. Then very fresh on the palate, mineral...
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M Chapoutier, Tournon Mathilda Chapoutier, Victoria, Australia, 2022

Reductive, smoky, flinty, blackberry aromas. Nice on the palate, with freshness and definition. Good persistence and a fine, elegant finish. The fruit is too ripe...
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Craven, The Firs Vineyard Syrah, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2023

Medium-bodied style, but with really concentrated forest berry fruit. Has good intensity and balance. Only mild tannins, so it has a silky mouthfeel, but enough...
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Eight Gates, Syrah, Polkadraai Hills, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2024

Quite restrained and herbal on the nose, then enjoyably acidic and herbal on the palate. No lack of body, yet it’s a fresh, piercing and...
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Terracura Wines, Syrah, Swartland, South Africa, 2015

Eucalyptus, menthol, dried blood, old leather – clearly showing some age now after 11 years. It’s not dried out though – it still has some...
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Domaine de l'Idylle, Le Tithonien Mondeuse, Savoie, France, 2024

Pale red with a purple hint. Redcurrant and raspberry scented. Has a certain graphite, granite, mineral, chiselled texture and good acidity. Doesn't have the weight...
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Domaine de Torraccia, Corse Porto-Vecchio, Corsica, France, 2022

Medium ruby colour, not opaque. Hot slate and red berries on the nose. A little more generous and not as tannic as a northern Rhône...
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Domaine des Tourelles, Marquis des Beys, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon, 2020

Restrained nose of tender forest berries, very Syrah in aroma. Slim, with fine acidity and discreet supporting oak. The tannins are more Cabernet however, squared...
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Matt Walls is an award-winning freelance wine writer and consultant, contributing regular articles to various print and online titles including Decanter, where he is a contributing editor. He has particular interest in the Rhône Valley; he is chair of the Rhône panel at the Decanter World Wine Awards and is the owner of travel and events company www.rhoneroots.com.