Panel tasting results: Italy’s indigenous whites
Italy has such an exciting diversity among its indigenous white grape varieties, as amply illustrated by this wide-ranging tasting.
David Kermode, Sara Bachiorri and Jason Millar tasted 142 wines, with 3 Outstanding and 69 Highly recommended
Italy’s indigenous whites: Panel tasting scores
142 wines tasted
Outstanding 3
Highly recommended 69
Recommended 54
Commended 16
Learn more about Decanter's blind-tasting process and scoring system.
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Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their Italian wines made using an autochthonous white grape variety from the region of production, up to 85% minimum if in a blend
Italy presents a rich treasure trove of indigenous varieties, but red grapes have tended to steal the limelight, courtesy of the historical dominance of regions such as Tuscany and Piedmont.
Global tastes are evolving, however, with white wines growing in popularity, while reds head in the opposite direction, so it’s serendipitous that the country also offers a diverse choice of whites from distinctive varieties that could only be Italian.
Take Sicily’s Etna DOC as an example: its red grapes, led by Nerello Mascalese and supported by Nerello Cappuccio, are now, justly, taking the fine wine market by storm, but the region’s primary white variety, Carricante, arguably outshines them both with its acidity-driven precision and lees-inspired textural charm.
‘Italy built its quality reputation on red wines, but indigenous white varieties such as Carricante, Timorasso and Garganega are every bit as worthy of attention as Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Cabernet Sauvignon,’ said Jason Millar.
‘Carricante is Italy’s most exciting white variety, offering the steeliness of good Chablis with a volcanic, Mediterranean twist.’
‘I found that Timorasso and Carricante were the stars of the show’
Though famed for its distinguished reds, Piedmont also boasts Timorasso, an ancient variety that had almost disappeared before being recognised for its gastronomic, waxy complexity.
Then there’s the much more famous Soave Classico from Veneto, a resurgent style with global name recognition. The finest examples offer refreshing yet intensely serious mineral drive.
Campania offers its own compelling trio of indigenous white grapes – Falanghina, Greco and Fiano – though the latter didn’t live up to expectations in this tasting, a source of dismay for Sara Bachiorri.
‘I was somewhat disappointed by Fiano’s performance, as in my experience it can make outstanding wines; while on the other hand I found that Timorasso and Carricante were the stars of the show – across all the samples we tasted, quality and scores were consistently high,’ she noted.
This tasting covered such a wide range of grape varieties and styles it’s hard to generalise about pairings, so I’ll focus on the Outstanding-rated wines.
As Jason Millar pointed out, Carricante has a similarity with Chablis but is even more taut and linear, which makes it particularly well suited to raw fish dishes such as carpaccio and sashimi.
With Garganega, the backbone of Soave, think of dishes you would pair with white Burgundy and other oak-aged Chardonnays – for instance, salmon, seared scallops or butternut squash-stuffed pasta; but as white wines are becoming increasingly popular to drink throughout a meal, you could also think of pairing them with simply roasted pork, veal or chicken.
It’s also worth taking into account the considerable ageing potential of these wines.
While a young Timorasso would go with a fine baked fish such as turbot or a seafood or shellfish risotto, as it ages it could accommodate richer fish dishes and also cheese. (Apparently the Piemontese drink it with the local Montebore, but it would also make an interesting pairing for a Tête de Moine.)
The judges
David Kermode is a widely published drinks writer, wine judge, broadcaster and consultant. Host of Food FM's Drinking Hour podcast, he has appeared on ITV's This Morning, Sky News and BBC radio, writes for trade and consumer publications, and is known as Mr Vinosaurus on social media
Sara Bachiorriis the head of London sales and part of the buying team at merchant WoodWinters. For several years a DWWA judge for Italy, she was formerly head sommelier at Michelin one-star restaurant Chez Bruce in southwest London
Jason Millar is a freelance writer and consultant specialising in the wines of Italy and South Africa. He has worked in various roles in the UK wine trade since 2011, most recently as company director at London merchant Theatre of Wine from 2018 to 2023. In 2016 he won three scholarships on his way to attaining the WSET Level 4 Diploma, including The Vintners' Scholarship for the top mark of all graduates worldwide
Italy’s indigenous whites panel tasting results
(wines were tasted blind)
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David Kermode is a widely published drinks writer, wine judge, broadcaster and consultant. Host of Food FM's Drinking Hour podcast, he has appeared on ITV's This Morning, Sky News and BBC radio, writes for trade and consumer publications, and is known as Mr Vinosaurus on social media.