five bottles of wine
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David Kermode, Sara Bachiorri and Jason Millar tasted 142 wines, with 3 Outstanding and 69 Highly recommended

Italy’s indigenous whites: Panel tasting scores

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Boveri Luigi, Derthona Timorasso, Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont, Italy 2024

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A notoriously capricious variety, low-yielding and slow to ripen, Timorasso was close to extinction until the late 1980s, when the visionary Walter Massa rode to...

2024

PiedmontItaly

Boveri LuigiColli Tortonesi

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Pieropan, Calvarino, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy 2024

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A family winery with a history that dates back to the late 19th century, Pieropan is synonymous with top-end Soave Classico and owns vineyards on...

2024

VenetoItaly

PieropanSoave

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Feudo di Santa Tresa, Bianco, Etna, Sicily, Italy 2025

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With its brooding backdrop of Europe’s most active volcano, it’s little wonder that Etna is a source of energy and excitement for the wine world....

2025

SicilyItaly

Feudo di Santa TresaEtna

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Gaja, Idda Bianco, Etna, Sicily, Italy, 2024

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Discreet candlewax, sea breeze and orange oil, followed by golden apple, ripe citrus and lemon curd. Subtle oak adds breadth. Creamy texture and a long,...

2024

SicilyItaly

GajaEtna

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Gaja, Idda Contrada Stella Bianco, Etna, Sicily, Italy 2024

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Concentrated, youthful. White blossom, garrigue and orange oil aromas. Quince and mango skin. Generous palate framed by oak spice. Citrus acidity. Allow time for the...

2024

SicilyItaly

GajaEtna

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Les Crêtes, Petite Arvine, Valle d’Aosta, Italy 2024

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White peach, greengage and floral perfume. Pineapple, mango and yellow grapefruit fill a richly textured palate. Generous fruit. Long finish, with honey, mountain herbs and...

2024

Valle d’AostaItaly

Les Crêtes

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Pieropan, La Rocca, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy 2024

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Orange blossom, sweet almond, vanilla. Sumptuous apricot, nectarine and lemon tart palate. Creamy, mouthcoating. Gently honeyed finish. Decant to reveal its generous layers.

2024

VenetoItaly

PieropanSoave

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Tunella, Biancosesto, Colli Orientali del Friuli, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy 2024

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Elderflower, peach and a hint of sage. Plush and seamless. Poached pear and honey richness; pithy lemon provides lift. Full-bodied, creamy, with lovely fruit intensity.

2024

Friuli Venezia GiuliaItaly

TunellaColli Orientali del Friuli

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Broglia, Derthona Timorasso, Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont, Italy 2020

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Peach skin, pink grapefruit and lime marmalade mingle with iodine and kerosene. Rich, silky fruit, wiry acidity and an iron-like edge. Bone-dry finish scented with...

2020

PiedmontItaly

BrogliaColli Tortonesi

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Colpaola, Verdicchio di Matelica, Le Marche, Italy 2023

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Lemon zest, white pepper, bay leaf, followed by apple, green peach and pear. Fruity, pithy, fleshy palate, with sage and fennel adding interest. Firm acidity...

2023

Le MarcheItaly

ColpaolaVerdicchio di Matelica

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Di Filippo, Farandola, Umbria, Italy 2023

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Opens generously. Rich, with candied peel, apricot, shortbread. Golden apple and lemon curd fill the broad, creamy palate,. A dry, acacia honey finish carries a...

2023

UmbriaItaly

Di Filippo

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Viberti, Derthona Timorasso, Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont, Italy 2024

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Honey, quince and candied lemon peel mingle with mango and guava. Smooth, mouthcoating, with wiry acidity. A long, dry finish with gentle grip. Youthful concentration...

2024

PiedmontItaly

VibertiColli Tortonesi

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Vignamato, Versiano Verdicchio, Classico Superiore, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Le Marche, Italy 2024

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Lemon verbena and peach skin mingle with Golden Delicious apple, bay leaf and a hint of peanut. Substantial fruit, creamy palate and white grapefruit freshness.

2024

Le MarcheItaly

VignamatoVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi

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Barone di Villagrande, Bianco, Superiore, Etna, Sicily, Italy 2025

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Floral aromas mingle with white grapefruit, mountain herb and subtle oak spice. Apple and lemon tart flavours have good weight, lifted by citrus. A firm,...

2025

SicilyItaly

Barone Di VillagrandeEtna

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Curatolo Arini, Catarratto, Sicily, Italy 2025

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White blossom, lemon zest, gingerbread. Broad, creamy palate. Poached pear, yellow plum mingle, ripe citrus, fennel. Pithy acidity lifts the generous fruit. Sweet spice lingers.

2025

SicilyItaly

Curatolo Arini

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Federico Curtaz, Gamma Bianco, Etna, Sicily, Italy 2022

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Flint, sea breeze and orange oil set a distinctly mineral tone. A waxy palate carries lemon, tangerine and mango skin, with driving acidity and a...

2022

SicilyItaly

Federico CurtazEtna

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Marchesi Antinori, San Giovanni della Sala, Orvieto Classico Superiore, Umbria, Italy 2024

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Wild herbs beneath fresh lemon and yuzu. Honeyed citrus, pear and yellow apple lend depth to the textured palate. Persistent acidity and a chewy finish...

2024

UmbriaItaly

Marchesi AntinoriOrvieto Classico Superiore

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Gian Piero Marrone, Tre Fie Arneis, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy 2025

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Lemon verbena, lime leaf and white blossom. Juicy green pear and citrus follow. Blanched almond, a lively, tangy palate. Grapefruit and a gentle bitter edge...

2025

PiedmontItaly

Gian Piero MarroneLanghe

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Cantina Mesa, Giunco, Sardinia, Italy 2023

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Citrus blossom, honey and wax reveal attractive maturity. Delicate peach, pineapple and candied lemon peel follow, held by lively acidity. Bone-dry, fresh and persistent.

2023

SardiniaItaly

Cantina Mesa

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Mura Mura, Beatrice Derthona Timorasso, Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont, Italy 2024

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Peach, orange rind, mango; a gently herbal edge. Ripe fruit fills the smooth, silky palate, with mineral notes beneath. Pithy citrus lends freshness and definition...

2024

PiedmontItaly

Mura MuraColli Tortonesi

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Tascante, Buonora Bianco, Etna, Sicily, Italy, 2024

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Flinty and coastal, scented with Sicilian lemon, samphire and garrigue. Firm, mineral palate, with candied peel. Pithy grapefruit and a saline streak on the long,...

2024

SicilyItaly

TascanteEtna

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Zidarich, Vitovska, Carso, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy 2022

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Hazy amber hue. Oregano, hazelnut and tamarind. Quince paste, bruised apple and orange bitters fill a rich, leesy palate. Fresh, with a biscuity finish. An...

2022

Friuli Venezia GiuliaItaly

ZidarichCarso

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David Kermode
Drinks writer and broadcaster

David Kermode is a widely published drinks writer, wine judge, broadcaster and consultant. Host of Food FM's Drinking Hour podcast, he has appeared on ITV's This Morning, Sky News and BBC radio, writes for trade and consumer publications, and is known as Mr Vinosaurus on social media.