Expert’s Choice: Vinho Verde

Stories of appellations and wine regions hamstrung by their commercial success abound. A boom in popularity can sometimes come at the cost of diversity – both stylistic and viticultural – and identity.

Perhaps this could have been said of Vinho Verde in the late 1990s, when its off-dry, fruit-driven, slightly fizzy iterations were ubiquitous. Not so today.

The northwestern corner of Portugal has re-emerged as an exciting region with an appreciation and understanding of tradition and terroir differences, as well as an appetite for experimentation.

A new generation of winemakers has begun to come to the fore, leading the transformation of existing (sometimes their own family’s) estates and starting new, niche projects in collaboration with local growers.

They’ve expanded the regional repertoire by reviving an almost forgotten wealth of historical varieties and styles.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 18 dazzling Vinho Verde wines

A world of flavour

The selection of wines that follows highlights the diversity and quality on offer today. It’s a cue to explore the region’s sub-regions, varieties and winemaking philosophies – from the classical purists to the low-intervention mavericks.

Think of Vinho Verde as a plural, not singular, designation of origin, with the common denominators of winemaking acumen and a sense of purpose: each wine presents a sub-region, specific vineyard, grape variety or blend with a clear intent.

Much of that clarity is a product of an increasing exploration of terroir diversity and of the varieties that thrive in and/or are historically relevant to each of the nine sub-regions.

The DOC’s rules permit 45 different grape varieties, yet Alvarinho, Arinto and Loureiro represent 57.6% of the region’s grapes.

The role that others – such as Azal, Avesso, Gouveio (Godello) and Trajadura (Treixadura) – can play is now being reconsidered, as winemakers develop a better appreciation of regional nuance.

All in the detail

Also of note is the renewed attention given to old-vine field blends – many trained along the traditional, pergola-like ramadas – mostly thanks to young, well-travelled winemakers attuned to the appeal of the vibrant wines these produce.

Dominated by local red varieties, the trend has also shed new light on the region’s rosé and red wines. Although known today as a region of great whites – which, as shown here, it indisputably is – Vinho Verde actually produced mostly red wine until the late 20th century.

But many of the local varieties – thin-skinned, with low alcohol potential – did not appeal to either producers or consumers. That reality is changing fast, as both winemakers and markets increasingly value freshness, subtlety and elegance.

Among the star performers is Alvarelhão, the ‘Pinot Noir of Vinho Verde’ according to Anselmo Mendes, one of Vinho Verde’s most renowned winemakers. Along with other thin-skinned grapes, such as Padeiro and Espadeiro, it was until recently seen as a fussy, lesser variety.

The deeply coloured Vinhão, a teinturier grape (with dark flesh as well as skins), was favoured to produce the rustic pinta malgas (‘bowl painter’) Vinhos Verdes.

Vinho Verde’s heritage is aligned with the current consumer demand for lighter, lower-alcohol wines and for the need, in the face of climate change, to experiment with alternative grape varieties.

There is a sizeable pool of winemakers in the region, with very different philosophies but the same technical ability and passion, leveraging this huge potential.

These wines will hopefully challenge you to reassess Vinho Verde not just as a source of great-value, early-drinking wines – which it still is, and long may it be so – but also of truly special bottles of remarkable character and ageing potential.

See notes and scores for 18 dazzling Vinho Verde wines of all hues

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