Top Uco Valley sub-regions: Panel tasting results

Phil Crozier, Paz Levinson and Patricio Tapia tasted 99 wines from the Uco Valley sub-regions of Altamira and Gualtallary, with 12 Outstanding and 37 Highly Recommended.

Originally published in the October 2017 issue of Decanter magazine

Entry Criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release reds from Altamira and Gualtallary in Argentina’s Uco Valley, in which 85% of the grapes must be sourced from a single sub-region.

The verdict

The rationale for grouping these two micro-regions of the Uco Valley together for this panel tasting was that both are producing some of Argentina’s most exciting Malbecs and other reds. That fact is confirmed by a fantastic set of results – no fewer than 12 wines rated Outstanding, and a further 37 Highly Recommended.

Both regions won their fair share of the accolades (with Gualtallary having the edge at Highly Recommended level), but in the post-tasting discussion our experts emphasised the differences between them.Altamira is a long-established wine region with older vines and a distinguished pedigree, while Gualtallary is an emerging region without a fully established identity. ‘More experimentation, less history,’ quipped Paz Levinson. ‘We found an “Altamira style” far more than we did a “Gualtallary style” – Altamira was definitely more consistent stylistically.’

Quick link See all tasting notes & scores from this panel tasting

Regional character

That said, the tasters were able to make some general observations about regional characters. Levinson described the wines of Gualtallary as having ‘wildness’ and being more herbal. ‘It’s not the fruit bomb, but more about bones, you know – about structure and texture.’

Phil Crozier agreed with the ‘wildness’ descriptor for the Gualtallary reds: ‘I get black fruit from here, and flowers mixed in with that – lavender, roses, violets. There’s a real delicacy, a wildness. Altamira is more red fruit, austerity, medicinal chalk, eucalyptus, menthol. The Altamira wines have a seriousness about them – they appeal to, for example, Burgundy lovers.’

For Patricio Tapia, the difference is about structure. ‘The Altamira wines are better for cellaring, probably because of the structure of the tannins,’ he observed. He found the Altamira style more austere, and the Gualtallary style generally ‘lighter, fresher and vibrant’, though he complained about some ‘soupy, flat wines’. It figures, he said: ‘There’s massive variation in styles because they’re still discovering themselves.’

One major drawback for wine lovers, Crozier pointed out, is that producers are not currently allowed to use the word Gualtallary on the front label, as the rights to use that name are privately owned. Hopefully that situation will change, but in the meantime some producers use ‘Gualta’ on the label, as an alternative.

‘It’s the biggest stumbling block for Gualtallary at the moment,’ added a frustrated Crozier.

Talk then turned to vintages. ‘The 2013s are drinking very nicely – it was a beautiful vintage,’ enthused Crozier. ‘And some of the 2014s were very good too; they’re beginning to come into their own. I was surprised at how good the 2015s are, but it was a disaster for Cabernet Sauvignon – don’t even go there,’ he warned.

In general, buyers who want a change from Malbec are better going to Altamira for Cabernet Sauvignon and Gualtallary for Cabernet Franc, felt Tapia. ‘Malbec works everywhere!’ he added.

All three tasters were keen to convey their genuine enthusiasm for these wines. ‘It was an amazing tasting – there were some absolutely staggeringly beautiful wines,’ said Crozier. And most are approachable now.

‘That’s the strength of Argentinian reds – especially now that the winemakers are managing the oak and tannins more skilfully,’ said Levinson. ‘You can drink them now with pleasure, or happily cellar them for a decade or more if you want to.’

The scores

99 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 12

Highly Recommended 37

Recommended 31

Commended 6

Fair 8

Poor 3

Faulty 2

See all 99 wines from this panel tasting

Gualtallary & Altamira

These high-altitude Uco Valley regions share similar topographies but their history of winemaking, and the reds themselves, are quite different, as Patricio Tapia reports…

Malbec and Argentina are inextricably linked. The country’s producers know that and have profited from it. But as Italian consultant Alberto Antonini – a key player in the evolution of Argentinian wine – observes: ‘The next step is to sell less Malbec and more Argentinian terroir.’

In this context, regionality begins to play a key role in how we understand Argentinian wines today. There are many regions making excellent wines (Malbec or not), but two garner the most attention for the quality and character they deliver. Both are in the heights of the Uco Valley, at the foot of the Andes: Gualtallary and Altamira, south of the city of Mendoza.

Altamira has a long tradition in wine, and some of its vineyards are more than a century old, while Gualtallary is a new area that was only planted in 1994 thanks to the Chandon winery and its sparkling wines.

In geographical terms, Gualtallary is located north of the Uco Valley, in the department of Tupungato, at an altitude of 1,200m to 1,550m, while Altamira is in the centre of the valley, in the department of Tunuyán, at a height ranging from 1,080m to 1,100m.

The geographical boundaries of Altamira were legally established in 2013 (revisited in 2017) and today it has its own IG (geographical indication), while Gualtallary is still in the process of legalising its borders.

Both share similar topographies: Altamira has alluvial soils that millions of years ago formed the bed of the Tunuyán river, and Gualtallary is on an alluvial cone – the old Las Tunas bed. The soils are rich in sand, gravel and mainly chalk, which imparts mineral notes as well as tense, tight textures in the wines, a detail that separates them from the soft, round tannins of other lower areas.

The character of Gualtallary wines versus Altamira’s is still to be clearly identified, mainly – as Eduardo del Popolo, winemaker at Susana Balbo Winery, says – because both areas are very disparate. But to generalise, del Popolo says the Gualtallary wines are more herbal and light, while Altamira’s are more austere and robust.

The dominant grape is Malbec, but Matías Michelini, owner of Passionate Wine, says Cabernet Franc has also produced very good results in Gualtallary, as well as Sauvignon Blanc. For Sebastián Zuccardi, of Bodega Zuccardi, Bonarda has many possibilities in Altamira.

These Uco Valley sub-regions already produce some of the best wines in Argentina but are still a work in progress.

Uco Valley: Know your vintages

2016 A cold year, giving fresh, light wines; great for those seeking finesse. One of the best vintages of the decade.

2015 Those who picked before the April rains got fresh wines with rich, aromatic, vivid character. Later heatwaves gave riper, voluptuous reds.

2014 A year of finesse and freshness. Low yields, but rich acidity and fruit flavours. The best will age for several years.

2013 Not much concentration, but rich in acidity and fruit notes.

2012 Frost cut yields by up to 40%. A year of moderate heat and very ripe fruit. Drink now.

2011 Concentration and strength, with intense, tannic wines.

2010 Refined and delicate reds. Time to broach but will continue to age well in bottle.

2009 Fat, velvety, ripe reds to drink now.

Gualtallary

Area 5,245ha

Area under vine 2,249ha

Main grapes planted Malbec 1,119ha, Chardonnay 335ha, Cabernet Sauvignon 270ha, Pinot Noir 177ha, Merlot 86ha, Sauvignon Blanc 70ha, Cabernet Franc 55ha

Altamira

Area 9,290ha

Area under vine 2,786ha

Main grapes planted Malbec 1,712ha, Cabernet Sauvignon 434ha, Chardonnay 169ha, Pinot Noir 120ha, Syrah 112ha, Sauvignon Blanc 45ha, Cabernet Franc 43ha

The judges

Phil Crozier

Crozier is wine director for the Gaucho restaurant group, responsible for the wine list, including its 200 Argentinian wines. He also runs the Gaucho-owned Malbec vineyard in Lulunta in Mendoza, which produces Viña Patricia. Crozier is also involved with the production of the Corte G range of wines.

Paz Levinson

Levinson is currently head sommelier at Virtus in Paris and works between France and Argentina as a consultant and educator. She was the first Argentinian to pass the Court of Master Sommeliers’ advanced sommelier certificate, and won the ASI and APAS Best Sommelier of the Americas in 2015.

Patricio Tapia

Tapia is Regional Chair for Argentina at the Decanter World Wine Awards. He is the South American wine critic for Wine & Spirits, and also writes the annual Descorchados bilingual wine guide to Argentinian, Chilean and Uruguayan wine, published in both Spanish and English.

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